Oil Pan Gasket Question

[nimdivino]

Hey guys,
I want to pull out my oil-pan and change the gasket along with various gaskets (ie, vtec solenoid, valve cover, etc). I was looking underneath (nasty by the way) and I noticed that the Comptech headers is running right below it.. My friend mentioned that I might have to remove the headers, which I really don't want to.

So my question is, do you have to pull out the front headers in order to drop the oil pan? I noticed the headers slipped-on to the muffler, if I pulled the muffler, is is possible to slide the oil-pan out?

Thank you. Your input is much appreciated.

niM
PS: I did check the FAQs, that helped however that is for a stock header. Want to hear experiences from people that has changed the oil pan gasket with headers.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Sorry, not optional, you must remove the Front Beam and Front Header.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[nimdivino]

that's lame.. but thank you..


niM

 

[Synthesis]

how long have the headers been installed for? if the exhaust bolts aren't rusted to hell, it's really not hard (esp the front header). just wrap up the pipes with something and it's only a 15min detour. (should probably spray the bolts with PB blaster, being careful not to blast the o2 sensor on the pipe)

i ended up having to take out my whole exhaust (manifolds back) just a little while ago because the bolts into the cat were pretty much corrosion-fused in there.

also, when you do the gasket.... you might want to get a gasket adhesive to help keep it in place while you place the pan and tighten the nuts/bolts. i used 3M super weatherstrip adhesive - you can get it at (i'm assuming) any autostore.... i got mine at advance. it says weatherstrip adhesive but it is also meant for gaskets and stuff (resists oil and high temps). just dab a little bit in a few areas... but you gotta be really careful, because it's crazy stringy. Let it set for a couple min, and then put on the pan.

 

[KooLaid]

Lots of highly experienced NSX wrench turners by hobby and by trade has said to NOT add the adhesive to even hold it in place. I have still yet to replace mine because my next oil change is still 2000+ miles away.

 

[Synthesis]

Lots of highly experienced NSX wrench turners by hobby and by trade has said to NOT add the adhesive to even hold it in place. I have still yet to replace mine because my next oil change is still 2000+ miles away.

why not use the adhesive?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The gasket should be installed dry, with no Hondabond, etc. I have replaced many of these that have been gooped up with sealer and they actually tend to leak that way. Installing dry is a bit of a pain to keep the gasket in place, but worth it IMO.

I was taught this many years ago by Mark Basch and it has not failed me once.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[nimdivino]

thanks guys for all the help...

Though I also don't understand why putting a little sealant on the oil pan to help secure the gasket is a bad thing. I have a high-comp supercharged motor on my other car, I use the toyota high-temp gasket maker and it worked wonders even after daily driven and beaten-up in the track.

I'm gonna put a dye on my oil tomorrow, figure out where the leak is actually coming from.

niM

 

[canuck]

The gasket should be installed dry, with no Hondabond, etc. I have replaced many of these that have been gooped up with sealer and they actually tend to leak that way. Installing dry is a bit of a pain to keep the gasket in place, but worth it IMO.

I was taught this many years ago by Mark Basch and it has not failed me once.

HTH,
LarryB

I concur, do it dry!!!:wink: The silicone can stay wet for hours, put the pan gasket on dry, be patient.

 

[Alan C.]

I used to put dental floss throgh several pan bolt holes and the gasket on my 944 turbo loosely tying the floss. Put the bolts through the holes without the floss, do not tighten, and then carefully remove the floss. Lines everything up nicely.

I'll second the NO silicone seal. If it gets inside the pan it could cause a problem.