Oil pan gasket question

[Ponyboy]

My NSX has a small oil leak that I'm intending to remedy this weekend. I've looked at the service manual and priced the gasket (roughly $25 bucks). But I don't see anything in the manual that says I need to use Hondabond or something similar. I tend to think that I'd need something like Hondabond for it to seal properly.

Has anyone done this before? And is Hondabond needed?

Ok, I'm checking the FAQ already. . .before Ken points out the obvious.

 

[chudson1549]

Originally posted by Ponyboy:
I tend to think that I'd need something like Hondabond for it to seal properly.

No, You should'nt need the hondabond here. Just make sure you TORQUE the bolts and nuts or better yet do not overTORQUE them. Some of the other service guys should chime in. The hardest part was removing the exhaust section w/o a breaker bar. Have fun

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

I like to use small amounts of the Honda bond especially in the corners of the gasket. It keeps the gasket in place as you install the pan. Make sure to follow the torque and bolt pattern recommended by the shop manual.

- Chris

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www.ScienceofSpeed.com | [email protected] | 877-863-4520

 

[redfisher]

I just did the pan gasket replacement on my car Sunday. Didn't see anything in the service manual about gasket sealer, so I didn't use any. I understand that when using a rubber gasket, gasket sealers are typically not used, vs paper or cork where they typically are. As SoS posted, it might make the job easier to hold the gasket in place with a little sealer, although I was able to do it without.
Along with the exhaust pipe from the front cylinder bank, I also had to remove a bracket on the bottom of the engine connecting to the transmision. I got in the way when trying to re-install the oil pan.
The hardest part about the job was getting the car jacked up and on jack stands. My floor jack isn't low enough to get under the car without some creative work.
The exhaust bolts were frozen pretty good, but I was able to break them loose using a 1/2" air impact driver. For the difficult to reach nuts I used an extention with a universal joint on the end. BTW, it isn't necessary to remove the heat shield from the CAT to take the exhaust loose, the studs are bonded on the CAT side. Whole job took about 3 hours including getting the car up and down.

Good luck,
John McD