Oil Oan Gasket with comptech headers

Joined
17 September 2002
Messages
1,770
Location
MI
Does anyone with aftermarket headers know if it's possible to replace the oil pan gasket without removing the front bank headers? It looks like the pan may be able to slide out from over the headers, but before I get into this myself I'd like to hear from some people that may have done this or know for sure. Any insights?
 
Just thinking out loud:

Couldn't you unbolt and drop the oil pan as much as possible, cut and remove the old gasket, if you can't manuver the new gasket in place (is there a reason why not?) then cut the new gasket and reinstall with Hondabond sealing the cut?

Just trying to visualize this because I have not done it. :confused: Removing the front bank headers has to be a real PITA (but I haven't done that either).
 
Last edited:
I do listen to, and respect, Larry's experience and knowledge (I'm sure he's forgotten more about these cars than I'll ever know) and he's helped me many times. I'm just saying that there has to be about an inch clearance between the oil pick-up tube and the bottom of the pan when you take the bolts out and drop it onto the header. With an inspection mirror and a bendy wire tied onto the gasket, seems that you could snake the gasket under the pick-up and pull it out (maybe with another wire).

I know the bolts holding the headers become very stubborn and rigid and can break which can become a nightmare scenario, which to me would be worse than a seepy pan gasket.

Then again, not ever doing it, I really don't know.
 
I do listen to, and respect, Larry's experience and knowledge (I'm sure he's forgotten more about these cars than I'll ever know) and he's helped me many times. I'm just saying that there has to be about an inch clearance between the oil pick-up tube and the bottom of the pan when you take the bolts out and drop it onto the header. With an inspection mirror and a bendy wire tied onto the gasket, seems that you could snake the gasket under the pick-up and pull it out (maybe with another wire).

I know the bolts holding the headers become very stubborn and rigid and can break which can become a nightmare scenario, which to me would be worse than a seepy pan gasket.

Then again, not ever doing it, I really don't know.

When you replace the gasket the pan MUST be clean and dry and the gasket must be positioned properly. All of that is not going to happen if the pan is not off the block completely, and if it is, it would have taken you 3x as long a removing the header, since you will need to fish the gasket around the oil pickup tube etc, and it will be a mess and oil covered- FAIL:). Header bolts are not really too bad, never broke one, only have them back out of the head, no big deal.

My $.02
Regards,
LarryB
 
OK, I'll quit thinking out loud now :wink:.

Don't stop thinking. There are definitely places where you can short cut the official procedure and somebody somewhere had to have thought of it.

You could baggy the gasket (saran wrap?) and fish it through. It may just make a huge mess in the end and not save you any time though. I think a 2 layer baggy job would be the best so you can peel off the filthy layer, clean everything and only then expose the virgin gasket and clean everything again.

One thing I'll mention if you decide to do this is that removing the old gasket and prepping the surface will probably be the bigger issue - the old gasket won't just slide right out.

I think Larry might be right on this one (yet again :) )....
 
I've got a lift that I can use for this, I'm just wondering how much frogging around I'd have to do to get the exhaust apart from the header and then taking the header off. IT appears like the header is just slipped into the cat, but with out just getting into it and figuring it out, I can't be sure. I like wrenching on somewhat simple things myself, but I'm really just considering taking it to the dealer for this since if things go wrong they'll be in a better place to deal with it.
 
The complextiy of removing the front header is quite low, it's just a high amount of work. Removing the bolts from the exhaust/cats is the most challenging part. Removing the center front beam bolt is the next obstacle but a 5 minute-job with the right tools (extensions), same for the header nuts. You don't live near Larry's shop? :)
 
Honestly.. i've seen my headers removed twice by mechanics. Everytime it seemed simple and straight forward since I observed it both times. NSXprime has scared me half to death about the taking that off but if I would have just attempted it myself it would have been just fine.
 
Replaced my oil pan last fall....it was a bit scarry for me (none mechanical type) but with the help of a journeyman tech I work with, once he eyeballed it, it was no problem...but there were a couple of bolts that were nasty, kind of heat welded in, but he did get them...lots of skinned knuckles....

I replaced my oil pan, so putting on the new gasket on the bench was a snap....but I could not imagine trying to scrape off the old gasket good enough to get a good seal while it was still up there....he sprayed some adhesive here and there as well to mount the gasket, again, would be very difficult if not removed....
 
lots of skinned knuckles....


d0h!


mechanix-gloves.jpg
 
In looking further at other threads regarding changing the oil pan gasket it was brought up that it might not be gasket overall. I got under the nsx tonight and took some photos of where the header connects to the head after I noticed some oil there around the gasket. First off, I hope these pics are clear and bright enough, but can anyone shed some light on what I'm looking at or possibly needing to deal with outside of a pan gasket?

The photos are the front header looking at the driver side end of it.

Also, the more I looked at how to take the header off it brought a couple more questions to my mind. 1. Does one need to replace the self locking nuts after removing them with new ones? 2. How the heck do you get to the nuts on the passenger side especially on the top part? It looks impossible to get to those things, and I've read a few write ups of those who've already changed the pan gasket.

I should also note that there appeared to be some oil up past the header on the driver side. Maybe a spool valve gasket?
 

Attachments

  • photo 1.JPG
    photo 1.JPG
    79.7 KB · Views: 64
  • photo 2.JPG
    photo 2.JPG
    76.9 KB · Views: 56
  • photo 3.JPG
    photo 3.JPG
    66.2 KB · Views: 57
The leak could be a valve cover gasket, cam plug, spool valve, etc. You need to clean all the existing surfaces with carb/brake cleaner and find the source of the oil leak and go from there.

If you don't think you can reach some of the bolts on the header, start with the hard ones first. If you can't do it, call a mechanic :smile:.
 
The leak could be a valve cover gasket, cam plug, spool valve, etc. You need to clean all the existing surfaces with carb/brake cleaner and find the source of the oil leak and go from there.

If you don't think you can reach some of the bolts on the header, start with the hard ones first. If you can't do it, call a mechanic :smile:.

I'm just looking up in there trying to figure out what tools someone would use. I'm assuming an impact with a wobble of some sort? I'd just be interested in hearing what those who have done it recall using. If I don't have them then I'll just plan on getting by until I get my clutch done and I'll do as many seals as I can while the mechanic is in there. I do take some satisfaction from doing things myself though, so it'd be nice to do it in my own garage.
 
I'm just looking up in there trying to figure out what tools someone would use. I'm assuming an impact with a wobble of some sort? I'd just be interested in hearing what those who have done it recall using. If I don't have them then I'll just plan on getting by until I get my clutch done and I'll do as many seals as I can while the mechanic is in there. I do take some satisfaction from doing things myself though, so it'd be nice to do it in my own garage.

For which job? We have talked about oil pan, valve covers, etc.??
 
I'm still looking at the oil pan gasket and removing the headers. But I'm well aware after closer Inspection I may have some other gaskets to address as well.
 
When I did my headers I used various 1/4 and 1/2 sockets, short extensions, and swivels to tighten and loosen mine.

I ended up cross threading 1 or 2 studs because they backed out, ran them in tight enough to work, and then got them re threaded when my engine was out for a build.

Needless to say I had a slight "belt squeaking noise" when my rpms would fall from 4-2k for a short time.

I forget why I started the studs in the socket set instead of hand tightening them first. I think I couldn't get my hand in there honestly, but just be careful.
 
I'm still looking at the oil pan gasket and removing the headers. But I'm well aware after closer Inspection I may have some other gaskets to address as well.

There's header gaskets. I think I reused mine and ended up replacing them later on.

Sometimes there's some grit and dirt that can get in between the metal layers of the gasket and be annoying.
 
Swivel extension
12mm deep socket
swivel ratchet handle helps too
NO impact gun, you will never get it in there anyway
removal of the A/C compressor, not required, but helps, especially if it is your first one, and if you do it, do not loosen the belt, no need it will pivot off/on no problem. 12mm shallow for that, plus a racheting box 12mm helps too;)

If you back out a stud, double nut it and CAREFULLY rethread it until it bottoms, not too tight.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Thanks Larry, that helps. I stopped by my dealer today to talk with my tech who always works on my car and he offered to actually come to my house to help me do a whole slew of things. I may end up taking him up on that and help him out where I can just so I learn. Now I need to figure out a parts list of the things I want to do and go from there.
 
Back
Top