OEM Caliper Disassembly?

HIJACKER

HIJACKER

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Wondering if it's possible to completely disassemble the calipers in a way so that I can attempt a project with them. Once I'm done, I'd like to be able to put them back together.

I've never done anything with calipers other than a standard pad change, so I will need thorough instructions on how to do this.

Not sure if it makes any difference, but it's the calipers from the 02-05 model.
 
Hi,

i just installed mine after a refresh job and new paint. I only dissasembled my rear ones, that are more complicated due to all emergency brake mechanism.

The rear ones have the piston part and the emergency brake part, and i'm sure that the piston part is much like the front ones.

I followed the service manual instructions and it was very easy.

I will post this update in my build thread in the next couple of days (probably sunday during the day).

Nuno
 
Well, here's what I'm contemplating...

The OEM calipers are a "painted" gold color as OEM. I think with the color of my car, the polished lip and overall look, I'm considering about having the calipers gold plated. I think it would be very unique and I actually think this car could pull it off without looking tacky.

I'm still on the fence with the idea.

Reference photo showing caliper and car

900077753_xP489-XL.jpg
 
Hi,

man...once you dissasseble them, you can do whatever you want... :wink:

just mask all the places that can't be painted/plated and your set to use whatever finish you want. I don't know what kind of use you will do to the car, but choose a finish that holds good to dirty (washable) and heat (when you brake hard) without any discoloration.

Nuno
 
UnhuZ said:
Hi,

man...once you dissasseble them, you can do whatever you want... :wink:

just mask all the places that can't be painted/plated and your set to use whatever finish you want. I don't know what kind of use you will do to the car, but choose a finish that holds good to dirty (washable) and heat (when you brake hard) without any discoloration.

Nuno
Click to expand...

This is why I asked about complete disassembly... masking is not an option. They would be dipped/soaked. There is no spraying, they would be completely submerged in a tank. I only want to play the caliper itself and be able to put the pistons and everything else back together afterwards.
 
Plating calipers has been done lots, you will probably nees to hone them after plating , requiring a total rebuild, keep in mind that plating them will make them contain heat about 2x as much , so your brakes will get hotter and your fluid will boil sooner.

Also it WILL look tacky no matter what you do.

NSX is not Snoop DeVille...

I love lowriders but DO NOT do this.
 
My cousin owns a brake/master cylinder rebuilding company. I worked there as a temp. rebuilding calipers, power steering pumps and master cylinders. There are some things you should take into consideration when rebuilding them.

1. plating them will not make them heat up any more. Trust me on this. :)

2. honing them is also pointless cause 95% of the casting does not come in contact with other moving parts, not to mention the plating will not affect any dimensional binding. the tolerances are not that tight on calipers.

3. reinstalling the dust cover boot will take patience and a special tool. The tool should be round and measure the same diameter as the dust boot.

4. use special assembly lube that will not swell the rubber seals. You will need to use this cause pressing the new/used piston back in will prove to be a bitch!

UnhuZ is correct about the rear calipers. They do contain some odd components and many more moving parts due to the E-brake mechanism.

If you have any questions. PM me.

Good luck ;)
 
Hi,

they always have to be masked AFTER you completly dissasemble them or stuff will get inside them, in the channels and it will be a bitch to clean everything in there...so, the hose hole, pistons holes and bleed hole must be all masked up...

the pistons are a tight fit in there, with a little gap, but tight... the seal and the boot also are tight on their slots, and i had all masked up good and very well cleaned.

Nuno
 
it depends on what hes doing. it makes sense to mask areas that he does not want to have painted (powder coated).

As far as having them plated, nothing needs to be plugged up. Sure you can go all out and plug every hole but it does not need to be done. The entire caliper is submerged and then removed. The only thing you may want to do is chase the thread for the bleeder valve so there is no binding.
 
UnhuZ said:
Hi,

they always have to be masked AFTER you completly dissasemble them or stuff will get inside them, in the channels and it will be a bitch to clean everything in there...so, the hose hole, pistons holes and bleed hole must be all masked up...

the pistons are a tight fit in there, with a little gap, but tight... the seal and the boot also are tight on their slots, and i had all masked up good and very well cleaned.

Nuno
Click to expand...

Nuno is right on the money here. Any plating in the piston bores will compromise their fit.
 
3. reinstalling the dust cover boot will take patience and a special tool. The tool should be round and measure the same diameter as the dust boot.

Here is a really complex/expensive tool:

Get a can of spray paint with a plastic top. Remove the top and cut about an inch off the bottom, so you have a round sleeve. Cut a vertical slice so you can expand the ring as required to spread the boot around trhe piston.

I have a ring for front and rear, since the pistons are different diameter, and you do not have alot of room.

This is very expensive, but worth it:D:D:D.

I cannot take credit for this idea, found in on the internet;).

Regards,
LarryB
 
Nuno is right on the money here. Any plating in the piston bores will compromise their fit.
Click to expand...

How thick do you guys think the plating is? :biggrin:

If i recall correctly, the time i worked for my cousin, i probably rebuilt 300+ calipers and the bore is no where near a slide fit. i will even make an educated guess and say that the average piston is machined and ground to + or -.001" and the casting should be at least +.010" in diameter

the seal (O-ring) within the caliper bore is what controls the position of the piston. pistons should not come in contact with the inner walls. if they did there would be major binding, not to mention the expansion of the piston during hot temperature i.e. racing

I stand by my statement. :cool:
 
Hi,

i agree....but do you agree that anything that gets in that tinny gap will difficult either re-assembly AND the expansion during frequent hard braking... anything includes plating :wink:

i'm just questioning because recently i had to do it, and it was a pain without anything in there...

Nuno

aluminiumdream said:
How thick do you guys think the plating is? :biggrin:

If i recall correctly, the time i worked for my cousin, i probably rebuilt 300+ calipers and the bore is no where near a slide fit. i will even make an educated guess and say that the average piston is machined and ground to + or -.001" and the casting should be at least +.010" in diameter

the seal (O-ring) within the caliper bore is what controls the position of the piston. pistons should not come in contact with the inner walls. if they did there would be major binding, not to mention the expansion of the piston during hot temperature i.e. racing

I stand by my statement. :cool:
Click to expand...
 
Calipers are calipers. the nsx calipers are nothing special. Refer to your manual. you will see that the caliper takes a "piston seal" and a "piston boot"

I apologize for using the word "o-ring" its just easier for someone to physically understand what a piston seal looks like.
 

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