OE Plus Design Keyless Entry System

jsullyboy

jsullyboy

Registered Member
Joined
28 June 2023
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70
Location
Ontario, Canada
I purchased the OE Plus Design Keyless Entry System for my 91 NSX over the winter.

The instructions have an option to wire it to flash the lights when locked or unlocked. The process is to use a 3M wire tap in order to enable the flashing lights.

I don't love the idea of doing the wire tap.

Has any one come up with a method to set this up without needing to tap the wire? A custom harness?
 
A T-Harness can be made using 18P connectors (Male & Female)

@Scrapdog2grand

Sumitomo HD Non-Sealed Connectors and Terminals

Sumitomo HD Non-sealed 090 connectors and terminals. A very common connector used for the interior connectors on Honda cars from the late 80's to mid 2000's, Sumitomo 6098-0239, 6098-0240, 6098-0241,6098-0242, 6098-0243, 6098-0244, 6098-0245, 6098-0246, 6098-0247, 6098-0248, 6098-0249...
www.cycleterminal.com
 
jsullyboy said:
I purchased the OE Plus Design Keyless Entry System for my 91 NSX over the winter.

The instructions have an option to wire it to flash the lights when locked or unlocked. The process is to use a 3M wire tap in order to enable the flashing lights.

I don't love the idea of doing the wire tap.

Has any one come up with a method to set this up without needing to tap the wire? A custom harness?
Click to expand...
I can make you a couple T harnesses so you dont have to use the T tap, but more info is needed and you will most likely need a proper crimp tool to terminate the 2 wires on the KES. There will be extra work as you will need to have access to the connectors for the trunk and lights, and have to remove the wires from the connectors to plug in the T harness.
 
I use this technique to tap wires without risking the T-taps, and also avoid another connector for all of the other wires that you're not tapping, which can sometimes be kind of large and hard to fit in.
  1. Find the wire that you want to tap, close to a connector.
  2. Be absolutely sure that there is no voltage on any of the wires you're working on. If a depinned terminal contacts a ground, you could short something and damage something expensive.
  3. Depin (remove the terminal from the connector) the wire you want to tap from the connector. There are instructions on-line, and also some special tools you can use for this, but you can use a very small screwdriver or pick. I found a better video than this one before, but I can't seem to find it now.
  4. Two options for the supplementary wire(s):
    1. Take a small section of other wire, about 3", and crimp a male terminal to one end and a female terminal to the other. This will be your supplementary wire. You do need a special crimper for these terminals; not sure where to buy the terminals, as I had a few lying around, but hopefully someone can chime in with this. Be sure your supplementary wire is at least as thick (copper diameter) as the wire you're tapping in to. Place the T-tap onto this supplementary wire section. If you boff the supplementary wire with misapplication of the T-tap, just make another one. Crimp a matching spade onto the wire you want to connect to the harness to connect to the T-tap at the end.
    2. When making the supplementary wire with male terminal & female terminals as in 1, crimp the tapping wire in with either end instead of using a T-tap. Often good to put some sort of spade connector or similar break into the tapping wire to make it easier for wiring in. Again, be sure your supplementary wire is at least as thick (copper diameter) as the wire you're tapping in to.
  5. Insert the appropriate male or female terminal of your supplementary wire into the original connector where you depinned the target wire.
  6. Two options:
    1. If you're only grafting to 1 wire, connect the supplementary wire to the depinned wire from the harness and wrap securely with silicone tape wrap, which has the advantage of sticking only to itself, so it can be easily cut off in future if you want to go back to stock without leaving a sticky residue.
    2. If you're doing multiple wires, you could place the supplementary wire to depinned OEM terminals in appropriately sized Sumita connectors and then connect. Again, check very carefully that the wires connect to the correct pins and that your tap connectors are correct since, with any electrical modification, there is the potential to damage expensive and/or irreplaceable electrical components if wires get crossed. Personally, I'd now recommend a regular T-tap with same-sized connectors and shunts for all of the unaffected wires so that a future "fixer" doesn't have to have great wiring skill to convert back to OEM.
You have now tapped the wires in a totally reversible way with no danger of damaging your original wiring. However, it will still take great care to undo it and similarly avoid wire crossing. The splicing connectors that @Scrapdog2grand & @drew make are probably safer.

I'll post some pictures tonight when I get off work. I will say the wiring is tight in several of the places where you'd tap for the running light flash, so adding a full T-harness could be challenging to fit.
 
Last edited:
Here's an explanatory picture of #1 above, which I stripped the silicone from to show how it's connected and how in future someone could just remove the supplementary green wire with its tap and reinsert the OEM terminal into the connector. This is why I didn't shrinkwrap it, as they are a bear to remove. (This is a tap into the white/black for the trunk release for the OEM+ keyless. Red and blue color mismatch because colors correspond to the gauge of the tapping and main wires respectively.)
PXL_20250415_201905122-min.jpg

With respect to #2, I've been thinking about it more and I have some concerns with my plan long term. The Sumita connectors aren't designed to be repinned/reterminated willy nilly, so there could be a concern of breaking something off & getting one of the terminals stuck, either the OEM terminal in the added connector, or the supplementary wire terminal in the OEM connector. This would make OEM reterminating impossible, so perhaps the "T connectors" with 2 connectors that add a supplementary section to every wire and then tap off a few are the way to go. They can be pulled out in future with little chance of error.
 
Last edited:
Also, whether you're doing it the basic way (tapping a new wire into the middle of your existing wire) or @Wild Turkey's way (tapping one new wire into another new wire), you'll get a better, more reliable permanent or removable connection if you use Positaps rather than those Scotchlok-type taps. https://www.posi-products.com/instructions1.html
 
Excellent. I need to check those out. Edit: This looks so clean when removed, and they claim that it doesn't damage the wiring, that I'm rethinking the effort of adding the supplementary wire, especially when it may be someone else converting it back to stock in future, who is not as comfortable pulling terminals from connectors.

Which reminds me of another way I've done them, crimping in the tapping wire when crimping the terminals onto the supplementary wire.
 
Last edited:
Scrapdog2grand said:
I can make you a couple T harnesses so you dont have to use the T tap, but more info is needed and you will most likely need a proper crimp tool to terminate the 2 wires on the KES. There will be extra work as you will need to have access to the connectors for the trunk and lights, and have to remove the wires from the connectors to plug in the T harness.
Click to expand...
KES module I bought from OE Plus Designs includes the option to flash the lights it has the wire already wired into the KES, in the instructions it says to extend the wire to under the driver side dash and tap into the red/black wire in the pic.

connector.jpg

I would like to remove the red/black from the connector and have some sort of reversable T connector to wire in the KES wire.

I will not hook up the trunk release option. I will never use it and the connector looks to be in a back breaking position.

If you could make a T connector for the flashers or know which parts I would need that would be great. I see there are a number of terminal extractor and terminal kits on Amazon. I just don't know what terminal type this would be.
 
Wild Turkey said:
I use this technique to tap wires without risking the T-taps, and also avoid another connector for all of the other wires that you're not tapping, which can sometimes be kind of large and hard to fit in.
  1. Find the wire that you want to tap, close to a connector.
  2. Be absolutely sure that there is no voltage on any of the wires you're working on. If a depinned terminal contacts a ground, you could short something and damage something expensive.
  3. Depin (remove the terminal from the connector) the wire you want to tap from the connector. There are instructions on-line, and also some special tools you can use for this, but you can use a very small screwdriver or pick. I found a better video than this one before, but I can't seem to find it now.
  4. Two options for the supplementary wire(s):
    1. Take a small section of other wire, about 3", and crimp a male terminal to one end and a female terminal to the other. This will be your supplementary wire. You do need a special crimper for these terminals; not sure where to buy the terminals, as I had a few lying around, but hopefully someone can chime in with this. Be sure your supplementary wire is at least as thick (copper diameter) as the wire you're tapping in to. Place the T-tap onto this supplementary wire section. If you boff the supplementary wire with misapplication of the T-tap, just make another one. Crimp a matching spade onto the wire you want to connect to the harness to connect to the T-tap at the end.
    2. When making the supplementary wire with male terminal & female terminals as in 1, crimp the tapping wire in with either end instead of using a T-tap. Often good to put some sort of spade connector or similar break into the tapping wire to make it easier for wiring in. Again, be sure your supplementary wire is at least as thick (copper diameter) as the wire you're tapping in to.
  5. Insert the appropriate male or female terminal of your supplementary wire into the original connector where you depinned the target wire.
  6. Two options:
    1. If you're only grafting to 1 wire, connect the supplementary wire to the depinned wire from the harness and wrap securely with silicone tape wrap, which has the advantage of sticking only to itself, so it can be easily cut off in future if you want to go back to stock without leaving a sticky residue.
    2. If you're doing multiple wires, you could place the supplementary wire to depinned OEM terminals in appropriately sized Sumita connectors and then connect. Again, check very carefully that the wires connect to the correct pins and that your tap connectors are correct since, with any electrical modification, there is the potential to damage expensive and/or irreplaceable electrical components if wires get crossed. Personally, I'd now recommend a regular T-tap with same-sized connectors and shunts for all of the unaffected wires so that a future "fixer" doesn't have to have great wiring skill to convert back to OEM.
You have now tapped the wires in a totally reversible way with no danger of damaging your original wiring. However, it will still take great care to undo it and similarly avoid wire crossing. The splicing connectors that @Scrapdog2grand & @drew make are probably safer.

I'll post some pictures tonight when I get off work. I will say the wiring is tight in several of the places where you'd tap for the running light flash, so adding a full T-harness could be challenging to fit.
Click to expand...
Do you know what type of terminal I would need? Here is the connector. In the picture I need to remove the red/black wire.
connector.jpg

Do you know that type of connector male and female would fit those terminals? I would only need a single terminal connector.
 

Sumitomo HD Non-Sealed Connectors and Terminals

Sumitomo HD Non-sealed 090 connectors and terminals. A very common connector used for the interior connectors on Honda cars from the late 80's to mid 2000's, Sumitomo 6098-0239, 6098-0240, 6098-0241,6098-0242, 6098-0243, 6098-0244, 6098-0245, 6098-0246, 6098-0247, 6098-0248, 6098-0249...
www.cycleterminal.com

1745196927700.png
 
I will say that I've done that tap on the black/red you pictured above and it would not be easy to insert another pair of 18P connectors as a splice in there. It's tight.
@I_M_Legend & @Scrapdog2grand , what do you think of the Positaps? I've not used them but they claim to not damage the wiring and be easily removable. Could they be safer than making the extra supplementary wires I've been making up to this point? Especially for folks that don't to a lot of reterminalling connectors? You do have to be very careful making the supplementary wires and those terminals can be pretty fragile. Also could possibly damage the connector as I expect it can only be terminalled so many times. I'm wondering if I should be using the Positaps going forward. I know @drew is always de/reterminaling connectors, which I've sort-of copied - any experience with the Positaps?
I think if I had to do it again, I'd use a Positap.
 
Last edited:
Wild Turkey said:
@I_M_Legend & @Scrapdog2grand , what do you think of the Positaps? I've not used them but they claim to not damage the wiring and be easily removable. Could they be safer than making the extra supplementary wires I've been making up to this point? Especially for folks that don't to a lot of reterminalling connectors? You do have to be very careful making the supplementary wires and those terminals can be pretty fragile. Also could possibly damage the connector as I expect it can only be terminalled so many times. I'm wondering if I should be using the Positaps going forward. I know @drew is always de/reterminaling connectors, which I've sort-of copied - any experience with the positaps?
Click to expand...
I use to provide them with one of the accessory harnesses I use to make, they work well and just leave a pin hole in the wire insulation. They can be a pain to work with in a tight area.
 
Wild Turkey said:
@I_M_Legend & @Scrapdog2grand , what do you think of the Positaps? I've not used them but they claim to not damage the wiring and be easily removable. Could they be safer than making the extra supplementary wires I've been making up to this point? Especially for folks that don't to a lot of reterminalling connectors? You do have to be very careful making the supplementary wires and those terminals can be pretty fragile. Also could possibly damage the connector as I expect it can only be terminalled so many times. I'm wondering if I should be using the Positaps going forward. I know @drew is always de/reterminaling connectors, which I've sort-of copied - any experience with the positaps?
Click to expand...
I've used them before and they leave a pin hole when removed. Similar to if you used a test probe on the wire. In that sense the "damage" to the wire is minimal compared to a more traditional tap. Definitely easy to install and remove if there's enough room. With any wire or connector space is key. You want avoid undue stress on wires having them twisted/bent at awkward angles.
 


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