congratulations on your achievement!
as some advice.. i'll just post the easiest to do stuff that may help you save 30 pages of reading and a quick recipe to save 220-260lbs off your current setup for a couple grand...
40lbs:
I've been using a lithium battery that is a 40lbs weight reduction and also half the weight & price of the shorai sold commonly here on prime
its made by Deltran and works excellent, ive had no issues in one year using it.
they have 360cc that's 2.6lbs $150 and a 480cc that's 3.7lbs for $200
ive never seen either of these mentioned any where here on prime and ive never posted details about it either here.
http://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Phosp...035710&sr=8-6&keywords=battery+tender+lithium
http://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Phosp...035710&sr=8-6&keywords=battery+tender+lithium
33-44lbs:
for aluminum bumper beams you can DIY pretty easily and will save you about 16lbs from rear plus 18lbs up front...... you can do both or just the rear as its the most important to reduce the pendulum effect in cornering.
just order the aluminum square/rectanglular tubing from
www.metalsdepot.com and drilling mounting holes is pretty easy.
here a copy paste of my order for materials you can order them pre-cut to save you some hassle. these measurements worked great for me.
1 T3112063 ....... 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/16 wall 6063 Aluminum Square Tube...... Custom Size: 0' 11"
2 T3318 .......3 x 3 x 1/8 wall 6063 Aluminum Square Tube ...... Custom Size: 4' 8".....
3 T34218-6061 ...... 4 x 2 x 1/8 wall 6061-T6 Aluminum Rectangle Tube ....... 4' (this 6061-t6 is structural grade, stronger for front beam)
you can save an additional 10lbs if usinf CF for total of 44lbs if you buy the NSX carbon fiber beams from pole to flag racing.
22bs:
The third would be removing your sound deadening from under carpets is about 12lbs, get some dry ice to freeze by spreading ice all over then just smash away with a plastic mallet and it breaks up can be taken off somewhat easily.... behind the seats paneling between the engine is also a thick sound deadening mat that can be hand pulled/ripped off it's about 10lbs
7-8lbs:
there are front and rear tow hooks that weight about 3-4lbs per side.... no one uses, nor can find them when their needed in emergency anyway, thus most tow trucks will strap your control arms anyway. just take them off, 3 bolts per hook
40-67lbs:
light racing seats, the oems are heavy 80.5lbs total for both with rails. you can save 40-50lbs here...... and more importantly the oem seats have zero support and wear you out on the track and on the street on long drives.... racing seats are better for long trips and track days since the added support reduces body fatigue and reduces pressure on your back.... buy brand name ones or some some good decent inexpensive ones that don't have any bad feedback whatsoever like F1 spec for $1K or downforce replicas if you want to spend that kind of loot. there also an Italian company that makes 4.5-6lbs carbon racing seats that look amazing there about $2K for set including importing elltech-italia (pm me for details) they look like technocrafts that are $4-$5k a set., I've had my F1's for 8 years, they weigh about 12.5 lbs each and do not flex and with thousands sold I've never read a bad review not even on prime after the group buy years ago which no bad product would have survived nsxprime.
..... i would also use fixed mount bracket for the driver side if you want save few extra pounds (not necessary), as it can be set up perfectly for you and that's all that matters other people that don't fit dont need to drive, (in my opinion) fixed mount brakets are 5lbs lighter than buddy club brackets (8lbs each) and 12lbs lighter than SOS brackets (15lbs each) those 2 companies are the only company i know making nsx seat brackets..
F1 spec carbon 12.5lbs
elltech-italia carbon 4.5lbs to 6.5lbs
Tillet carbon B1 seat 6lbs
techno craft carbon T2 6.5lbs
brackets buddy club:8lbs each SOS:15lbs each and fixed aluminum brackets are 2-4lbs each
pair of f1 spec with buddy club brackets = -40lbs
pair of elltech-italia CF with fixed brackets = -67lbs
15-25lbs
at least when you at the track remove the engine cover i forget what it weighs but think its around 20lbs (the roof does fit in the trunk just wrap it in a towel to protect paint as many do on prime) Show off that awesome engine!
30-36lbs:
The oem wheels are quite heavy about 17.5/20lbs each F/R and so are dunlop street tires at about 25/28lbs+ each F/R, if you can run enkie rpf1s that are about 15/16lbs each and hoosiers 20/23lbs each F/R, you can save 8/9 lbs percorner that's easily a total of 30lbs-36lbs where it matters most for suspension response and acceleration. you can just have this set for track days. work out deal to keep/store them with a tire shop near your home or near favorite tack so you dont have to haul them your self nor swap them yourself.
......if you don't want hoosiers at least upgrade to some competitive street tires that are wolds more advanced than the direzzas, something along the lines the newest tires that comes on supercars, michielin poilt cup 2 or pirrelli trofeos (are both 60-80 treadwear) they should do the trick or I use Nitto NT01 (100 tread wear) and dot approved which is great., any 2 of these will drastically improve your corner speeds compared to direzzas (that are 200 tread wear i believe)
most track guys run 235 width front tires and 275-285 rear widths that would also expediently increase your corner speeds. new wheels would allow you to run them. you would need 17x8 +35 front wheels with 235/40/17 front and 17 or 18 x9.5" or x10" +30 to +38
10lbs:
the pride v2 is about 26.5 lbs a tatitec GTLW could save you 10lbs back there in rear most important part of the car and reduce pendulum effect (doing this plus the aluminum rear bumper beam is about 26lbs off the rear of car, highly noticeable on a track.)
right there 200-225 lbs. that's 7% of the weight of the car. it will make a big difference in the handling and corner speed and braking ability of the car without any consequences.
and "harry's lap timer" is $40 phone app that is simple to use with a mounting bracket and will give you data, and G meters, speeds and video with data overlaid and sound all in one easy package that is amazingly accurate..
ONE last thing.... the wheel gap and car height will literally raise up about a 1/2" from the reduced weight, you will likely need to lower the car with new suspension or a least springs, you can look at this two ways either as a problem or a justification for just how important that weight is to get rid of. a new suspension can save you -9lbs for KW or up to 28lbs-37lbs if you call procar and buy a set of monotube aluminum tein-RE with his special EPS springs.
your total weight reduction could be 262lbs that 8.5% of the weight of your car!
these mods should have you still kicking butt in the next class
Happy tracking!
