Just brought a 04 nsx with 24k. but since the car is from San Francisco with alots of up hill driving. the clutch is about to went out soon. i was thinking either oem clutch kit or a stage 1 since i'm just street driving. Now the question is should I replace the flywheel or just had it reserve? and what other options I could do on the clutch? Really appreciate for the feedback.
NSX need new clutch. NEED ADVICE
- Thread starter royis
- Start date
I would stick with the OEM clutch as it has the best feel and least pedal stiffness. You can save a lot of weight with something like the SOS clutch and the Comptech clutch, roughly 20 pounds and have a lighter flywheel but if all you do is street driving and not much autoX or track driving (which means you are really missing out especially with Infineon and Laguna Seca close to you) then the weight savings and the lighter flywheel won't matter. The factory flywheel is so damn heavy it actuality prohibits good rev matching and heel and toe downshifting on the track. I am getting the Comptech clutch which actually uses parts from the Porsche turbo clutch. SOS clutch sounds like a good option too although I have no direct experience with it. As I understand it is a rebuilt OEM clutch. The other ones like exedy have very stiff pedals. These are for high horsepower motors.
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I'd go with one of the SOS ones. Just to touch base about what's posted above.
1. The SOS clutches are based off the original Rps clutch. Or at least the 350 and dual carbon are. The 275 MAY be a rebuilt oem unit but I'm pretty sure the 350 has Porsche parts on it as well. Or one side of it does per my discussion with Rps a few years ago. They may have changed that design when SOS revamped the clutch. But I remember since I bought my Rps used I was asking questions like "what if this is bad how much does it cost" and the one answer was "if that warped which is highly unlikely then it'll cost almost what a new clutch is since its a modified cover from a Porsche". I ended up just buying 2x 6 puck disks and put one in with one collecting dust for a rainy day.
2. There are different stages of clutches so if you're ever wanting to add a turbo or supercharger later it may be best to upgrade that clutch now. Considering oem clutches are pretty much the same money too.
3. Again different clutch models have different characteristics. The exedy clutch I had was not as stiff as my 6 puck Rps and was very similar to a stock pedal feel. I'm comparing though an exedy carbon/carbon clutch which I wouldn't buy again if you sit in any traffic. And exedy has I believe around 4 models.
1. The SOS clutches are based off the original Rps clutch. Or at least the 350 and dual carbon are. The 275 MAY be a rebuilt oem unit but I'm pretty sure the 350 has Porsche parts on it as well. Or one side of it does per my discussion with Rps a few years ago. They may have changed that design when SOS revamped the clutch. But I remember since I bought my Rps used I was asking questions like "what if this is bad how much does it cost" and the one answer was "if that warped which is highly unlikely then it'll cost almost what a new clutch is since its a modified cover from a Porsche". I ended up just buying 2x 6 puck disks and put one in with one collecting dust for a rainy day.
2. There are different stages of clutches so if you're ever wanting to add a turbo or supercharger later it may be best to upgrade that clutch now. Considering oem clutches are pretty much the same money too.
3. Again different clutch models have different characteristics. The exedy clutch I had was not as stiff as my 6 puck Rps and was very similar to a stock pedal feel. I'm comparing though an exedy carbon/carbon clutch which I wouldn't buy again if you sit in any traffic. And exedy has I believe around 4 models.
I'm not a track driver and I'm on my third OEM clutch.
They've lasted almost exactly 40 K miles each, are trouble free, and easy on the left leg in traffic.
With the heavy flywheel I think they may absorb more driveline shock than the aftermarket ones, and may ease the strain on the engine/transmission.
However if you are going to track/autocross then the advice from those who track is best.
They've lasted almost exactly 40 K miles each, are trouble free, and easy on the left leg in traffic.
With the heavy flywheel I think they may absorb more driveline shock than the aftermarket ones, and may ease the strain on the engine/transmission.
However if you are going to track/autocross then the advice from those who track is best.
Thank you all for the advice. this my first NSx so I don't have experience on the parts. Looks like everybody like the oem better than the after markets. I happen found this new oem clutch kit for a descent price on ebay lol. Just want to see what you Guys think about this.
wow 40k per clutch? Thats pretty poor performance, especially with zero track usage. Many guys are able to push well past 100k per clutch in the NSX.. I think i got 70+... and that was with methanol injection, supercharger, and tracking the shit out of the car..
What? That's because you can't drive.
I've never had a problem with heal and toe in the NSX other than the pedals are tight and I have to actually blip the throttle with the right side of my foot.what do u guys think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261156429247?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261156429247?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
price is right ,photo is wrong ,97and up used a dual mass flywheel ,the damping springs are in the flywheel ,just check that with vendor
My driving style must be hard on clutches.
Or maybe I shouldn't have let my son drive it as often as he did
Wow really appreciate for the heads up
What? That's because you can't drive.
Never had a problem wit heel toe on OEM clutch either. Pretty easy on track or street.
What? That's because you can't drive.
I didn't say I can't heel and toe. I said the slow engine response prohibits me from doing it better, faster, easier. I like a faster drop in RPM and a faster rev up. I've experienced faster response in cars with light flywheels, I like them better. I find myself waiting at times on engine response even if its sub-second. you don't have to tell me "you don't know how to drive". I had a DE instructor of 25 years experience who was pro at one point specifically tell me my heel and toe downshifts were spot on and "near perfect, very impressive". I double clutch heel and toe downshift, and fast. My rev matches are almost always spot on. I've practiced day after day over and over. For a few years now. The NSX has an excessively heavy flywheel.
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I want to know if there is a way to adjust the pressure on the flywheel on the sos 275 clutch kit. I know the 275 flywheel is 11lb and the oem is 19lb. I would like to adjust it to 19lb as the oem. I like it more feedback on the clutch.
1. The clutch is a good clutch as close to OEM feel as you will get.
2. Your comment/question does not make sense. The weight of the flywheel has no relation to the pressure you feel.
3. If you price out this, the SOS will save you $1000 in any 1997-2005 NSX vs. the OEM Dual Mass clutch. NOTE: this is based on a complete replacement including flywheel
HTH,
LarryB
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2 things to note:
1) the Ebay auction you posted is for the wearable parts on a clutch and does not include the flywheel (OEM flywheel for a 97-05 is $2000). Assuming your flywheel is not warped, you could reuse it. The SOS clutch kit is a complete kit including everything you need.
2) As Larry mentioned, the weights are the weights of the flywheel, not the clutch pedal pressure. Referring to this (http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource/FAQs/NSX/dpp/clutch_set_comparison/), you will see that the SOS clutch kit shaves 20 lbs off your drivetrain vs the 97-05 OEM while retaining a similar clutch pedal feel.
1) the Ebay auction you posted is for the wearable parts on a clutch and does not include the flywheel (OEM flywheel for a 97-05 is $2000). Assuming your flywheel is not warped, you could reuse it. The SOS clutch kit is a complete kit including everything you need.
2) As Larry mentioned, the weights are the weights of the flywheel, not the clutch pedal pressure. Referring to this (http://www.scienceofspeed.com/sos_resource/FAQs/NSX/dpp/clutch_set_comparison/), you will see that the SOS clutch kit shaves 20 lbs off your drivetrain vs the 97-05 OEM while retaining a similar clutch pedal feel.
I guess results may vary. I"m just shy of 130K with the original OEM clutch. I can say the previous owner was mostly highway for what its worth.
I'm speechless
40K on each OEM! I would be scratching my head after number two.
What an enlightening thread!
I had never questioned my clutch wear but I am now.
I must be slipping it too much at start-up or unconsciously leaving my foot on the clutch pedal and slipping it that way.
Does the initializing and set up of a new clutch have any bearing on wear?
Maybe my pedal set-up is not fully releasing the clutch.
My local dealer did both clutch changes.
All advice is appreciated!
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Initially when the clutch is installed you set the "initialization" at that point the clucthc either disengages or not
.In regards to pedal position you should have 1-7mm free play(spec) in the clutch pedal. Typically I find about 15mm, even 20mm. This has no effect on wear, unless there is no play in the clutch pedal, then you will kill it, but way before 40K miles
Regards,
LarryB
I tend to keep my start up around 1000rpm, sometimes less and minimal slip time. I have 50k miles and counting on my OEM clutch. It's all down to the driving style. I've seen people rev up to 2-3000rpm on start ups. Not sure how much mileage they are getting on their clutches. 40k miles does not sound normal unless you are racing between the lights often.
