Need to put my 1994 NSX in an enclosed trailer. I'm worried about the car bottoming out where the ramp door meets the trailer bed. Any idea what degree the ramp needs to be in order to clear the entrance? Looks like my car is about 4" high off the ground. Thanks for any input.
NSX in Trailer
- Thread starter ReedJohn
- Start date
Depends on the trailer. You're right to be thinking about break-over angle, but you also need to be worried about your front lip hitting the ramp when you start, or dragging on the ground behind if you back it in.
What is the load deck height & how long are your ramps? Most will need some kind of accomodation if the trailer doesn't lower or tilt to aid loading.
I put mine on a U-Haul car hauler, BACKING it on. But the other key is extending the trailer ramps to reduce the break-over and and approach angles. The UHaul car hauler ramps are 6'6" long and I extend them to 10'6" with these extra "maintenance" ramps. $100 well spent. The longer the ramps, the easier it is on your clutch as well. (The UHaul site recommends building "steps" out of stacked 2x8's but the steps are hard to drive up - this works much better):
www.canadiantire.ca
To answer your question in degrees, my 10'6" ramps with the 19" UHaul deck height would work out to 8.6 degrees on average, but the maintenance ramps are about 10 degrees so the UHaul ramp portion must be a bit shallower than that. My NSX also has ~4" clearance, measured at the jack points. That works well. The stock 6'6" ramps work out to 14 degrees. I tried that once but stopped because I could see it was going to scrape.
I sawed off the lip at the top of the "maintenance ramps" (that prevents you from driving off the back end.) Then I position it so that the car hauler ramp rests on the last 2" of the plastic extending ramps. It is a bit of a blip going onto the hauler ramps from the "maintenance" ramps, so I'm thinking of making small blocks for the hauler ramps to rest on to line up the top of the ramp with the top of the add-on ramps, so no "steps".
They're pretty light, but they're rated for 16,000 lbs! I can't find a pic now, but I'll take a pic next time I'm loading it. But that will be 2 weeks and I infer you're doing it sooner.
You can also back up to a ditch, a hill, or a large curb to create a pretty much flat loading situation.
What is the load deck height & how long are your ramps? Most will need some kind of accomodation if the trailer doesn't lower or tilt to aid loading.
I put mine on a U-Haul car hauler, BACKING it on. But the other key is extending the trailer ramps to reduce the break-over and and approach angles. The UHaul car hauler ramps are 6'6" long and I extend them to 10'6" with these extra "maintenance" ramps. $100 well spent. The longer the ramps, the easier it is on your clutch as well. (The UHaul site recommends building "steps" out of stacked 2x8's but the steps are hard to drive up - this works much better):
General PDP Template
www.canadiantire.ca
To answer your question in degrees, my 10'6" ramps with the 19" UHaul deck height would work out to 8.6 degrees on average, but the maintenance ramps are about 10 degrees so the UHaul ramp portion must be a bit shallower than that. My NSX also has ~4" clearance, measured at the jack points. That works well. The stock 6'6" ramps work out to 14 degrees. I tried that once but stopped because I could see it was going to scrape.
I sawed off the lip at the top of the "maintenance ramps" (that prevents you from driving off the back end.) Then I position it so that the car hauler ramp rests on the last 2" of the plastic extending ramps. It is a bit of a blip going onto the hauler ramps from the "maintenance" ramps, so I'm thinking of making small blocks for the hauler ramps to rest on to line up the top of the ramp with the top of the add-on ramps, so no "steps".
They're pretty light, but they're rated for 16,000 lbs! I can't find a pic now, but I'll take a pic next time I'm loading it. But that will be 2 weeks and I infer you're doing it sooner.
You can also back up to a ditch, a hill, or a large curb to create a pretty much flat loading situation.
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