Nsx Headgaskets

Joined
10 December 2001
Messages
144
Location
Miami Florida
Hey guys I dont know about anyone out there but the headgaskets on the nsx's suck just blew mine ubder NOS what a mission does any one recommend any after market metal gaskets something that can hold up I believe this is definately the weak link of the nsx's. And does anyone know who makes block guards for our cars? Thanks
 
Originally posted by NosNsx:
Hey guys I dont know about anyone out there but the headgaskets on the nsx's suck just blew mine ubder NOS what a mission does any one recommend any after market metal gaskets something that can hold up I believe this is definately the weak link of the nsx's. And does anyone know who makes block guards for our cars? Thanks

Your headgaskets didnt blow cause they suck. Have you tuned your car using a wideband? Blockgaurd won't help your headgasket situation in the least. Aren't the stock headgaskets METAL? I know for sure ALL 4 cylinders Honda vtec engines use tripple layer metal headgasket...dont see why the nsx would be any different.


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jack of all trades, master of some.
 
Get the following:

- Copper head gaskets from SCE (I sent them an OEM set as a template and asked them to make it a catalog part and they said okay)

- Stud kit from ARP (not a catalog item yet, but at least six months of pestering them got it produced. Call the plant directly; the sales guys can't help you.)
 
Hey David thanks have you seen the new Darton Sleeves go to Race Engineering.com they have them there Badass but the gaskets on the 92 nsx are not metal when you put on the sce headgaskets you have to oring the block right? Who did your oring in order to in stall the copper gaskets I thought by putting a block guard your sleeves dont move and there for your headgaskets wont break becausr when the car breaks up the sleeves rattle inside by the whay my car was on the dyno when this happened Im really thinking about those new sleeves from darton.
 
If you do the combination of Darton sleeves (I think Gerry is the first to use them in an NSX) and the ARP head studs, you should be okay with the OEM gaskets.

I am using copper and O-rings because I run 24-26 psi on race gas and that would destroy the stock gaskets.
 
Originally posted by David:
You don't need a wideband (or any O2 sensor) to accurately tune nitrous.

Hm. You need a wideband to tune anything accurately..unless you are 50 years old and have been reading plugs for 20 years..and i wouldn't call that accuracy. Why would nitrous be any different? You still have to supply the right amount of fuel to the chamber when the reaction takes place..why wouldn't you need to read the exhaust oxygen content afer combustion? How do you check your A/F without a meter? I dont understand...please englighten. Thanks.
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jack of all trades, master of some.


[This message has been edited by true (edited 24 May 2002).]
 
Originally posted by true:
You need a wideband to tune anything accurately.

Not true at all. It is unfortunate that most of this generation believes this. I think it has to do with a lack of respect for the old muscle car guys. If you know what you are doing, you can tune N2O perfectly in two, maybe three passes by reading the plugs. It just isn't that hard.

Go to any serious back half shootout and I promise you of the fifty cars there running 300-600 shots of nitrous, maybe three or four of the cars have ever seen an O2 sensor and that is because it was included in their datalogging package. These guys are all running finely (perfectly) tuned nitrous packages and they do it by looking at the plugs.

Go to any good speed shop, get one of the little plug scopes ($20) and use it. I prefer the ones with a small light built in. If you don't know how, go to the local strip and ask around. It is a very valuable skill and is not difficult at all to learn. Nitrous makes it easy to do, as it really shows up on the plugs if you are even a tiny bit fat or lean.

Also, you can tell if you are hurting the pistons or rings because the scope will show tiny little bits of aluminum if you are. The shape of the tiny bits of metal (round/jagged/etc.) will tell you exactly what you are hurting and how much.

[This message has been edited by David (edited 24 May 2002).]
 
Originally posted by NosNsx:
David is your engine sleeved and do you have block guards if so what block guard and who did the sleeving?

I use a custom block guard that was machined to fit and welded in. I don't know the brand for the sleeves but they are nothing exotic - just beefy ferrous liners. The Darton sleeves were not available when I built my motor or I would have used them.
 
Originally posted by NosNsx:
What are the siamese darton sleeves I called Darton and thet tould me they are gonna start prepping foe the nsx.

They are a really high quality liner that is 'T' shaped, so that when you press them in, you essentially convert your block from an open deck to a closed deck design. No need for a blcok guard. I believe a block with their sleeves would be reliable at 800-1000 hp.
 
How can you have a close deck if you have block guards? Isnt that kinda like a open deck still the people who built your sleeves also built close deck sleeves like the new Darton pro kit or close sleeves period. I heard that using a block guard is bad cause the sleeves still rattle a bit inside. You said there good to 800 to 1000 horse WoW can you please when you get a chance find out what sleeves you got. Thanks
 
Originally posted by David:
Not true at all. It is unfortunate that most of this generation believes this. I think it has to do with a lack of respect for the old muscle car guys. If you know what you are doing, you can tune N2O perfectly in two, maybe three passes by reading the plugs. It just isn't that hard.


I dont think it's lack of respect at all...not for me at least. I think it's the old tymers lack of respect for us. (true import performence crowd) Eventhough Nitrous has been used for almost half a centry, we are still learning more about its combustion characteristics. Pison dome shape is more advanced then its ever been. One thing about using a wideband is the ability to tune for HP. It may not be _that_ hard to get the A/F close, but we know that the key to getting BIG hp using nitrous is to change the ignition timing so cylinder peak pressure is further away from top dead center. If your peak cylinder pressure using nos is too close to TDC you start to lose.....headgaskets. So I don't see any reasonable way to adjust ignition timing and calibrate proper fuel delivery without using an o2. Im not doubting the possibility of one to read plugs and see if its running rich lean...good etc. But an engine gas exhaust analyzer is more accurate..its a fact.

Regarding using widebands...I'd like to meet the other kids from this generation that you mention...anyone I talk to says..wideband what? I'd like to be hanging out with them..I seem to be the only one to ever bring it up...here included.


Go to any serious back half shootout and I promise you of the fifty cars there running 300-600 shots of nitrous, maybe three or four of the cars have ever seen an O2


And of those 3 to 4 cars, one is the winner. haeha, ok..just kidding. :]


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jack of all trades, master of some.
 
Originally posted by David:
You don't need a wideband (or any O2 sensor) to accurately tune nitrous.
David, I am shocked to here you say that? True is absolutely correct...all his reasonings are obvious. Why would you think differently?
If you know what you are doing, you can tune N2O perfectly in two, maybe three passes by reading the plugs.
Oh, I've heard that one before... but the plugs need to be read immeadiately after a pass and that was when plugs were copper tipped. Today we are using Direct-Fire Ignition Coils and much more advanced Platinum and Iridium tipped plugs, which by the way, are "self-cleaning" as well.
Besides, who wants to pull hot plugs out, if
you can look at a display instead?
I dont think it's lack of respect at all...not for me at least. I think it's the old tymers lack of respect for us.
I agree

(old tymer speaking)What'cha mean there aint no sparkplug wires...Iridium? that there stuff gives ya radiation and cause cancer! bah! phooey!

Also, you can tell if you are hurting the pistons or rings because the scope will show tiny little bits of aluminum if you are. The shape of the tiny bits of metal (round/jagged/etc.) will tell you exactly what you are hurting and how much.
Are you kidding me? Particles as small as 15 microns will easily damage the cylinder walls. Too late for me, what you see is what you already got...bits of metal in your engine. No thank you, I'll take the wideband...

No disrespect...all in good fun.

Choritsu-shi
wink.gif




[This message has been edited by Sensei (edited 25 May 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Sensei:
David, I am shocked to here you say that? True is absolutely correct...all his reasonings are obvious. Why would you think differently?


Because you don't need it. NOBODY that I know with a big N2O shot tunes it with an O2 sensor - you can, but why bother. When you are tuning over the full range of the engine's operating perameters, knowing the lambda ratio under every possible operating condition is important. When you add nitrous, you are starting with a properly tuned motor and adding one variable at one throttle position. Cleaning/checking a plug for each run is all the info you need.


Also, you can tell if you are hurting the pistons or rings because the scope will show tiny little bits of aluminum if you are. The shape of the tiny bits of metal (round/jagged/etc.) will tell you exactly what you are hurting and how much.

Are you kidding me? Particles as small as 15 microns will easily damage the cylinder walls. Too late for me, what you see is what you already got...bits of metal in your engine. No thank you, I'll take the wideband...

No, I am not kidding you. Again, that is in referrence to people running huge nitrous shots and pushing their motor to the ragged edge. However, it is still better than a wide band. Your O2 sensor is not going to tell you if the problem is in the ring lands or the piston tops or the valves, it is just going to tell you that you have a problem - which you would already know at this point. So, the guy who can read plugs knows if he can do a couple more passes and maybe win the event and the guy witth the O2 sensor who can't read plugs has to put his car on the trailer, go home and pull the motor apart.

[This message has been edited by David (edited 25 May 2002).]
 
Originally posted by David:
If you do the combination of Darton sleeves (I think Gerry is the first to use them in an NSX) and the ARP head studs, you should be okay with the OEM gaskets.

I am using copper and O-rings because I run 24-26 psi on race gas and that would destroy the stock gaskets.

I was told by a very knowlegeable race car engine builder (note, he buids Porche race cars, not NSX's) that in general, doing o-rings becomes very important anytime the boost gets past about 10 psi; and that if you do them, you don't really need a block guard. Would you say the Darton sleeves are a better solution than o-rings? Is this overkill for 10-12 psi?

Thanks,

TJ
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[This message has been edited by Track Junkie (edited 06 June 2002).]
 
I brought it up to a 175 shot because I was running to fat with the 150 jets and also I have the smallest fuel jets availble. I also have direct port but we think we figured out what happened we over tightned the fiitings into the foggers so therefore the nos couldn't spray.
 
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