I have a 92 nsx. I couldnt find anything similar to my problem in the FAQ. There is a loud scraping (shushing) noise coming from my rear passenger side wheel. I have check the brake pads and rotor which look fine. I dont see anything that could be scraping/rubbing. It starts immediately when turning right, but also occurs while driving straight. turning the traction control off doesnt seem to affect it. Does anybody have any ideas? The nearest acura dealer is 4 hours away. Thanks.
noise from rear wheel
- Thread starter moehr
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There is a sheet metal tab on the inner brake pad that rubs and makes that noise when the pad is worn and needs to be changed.
moehr said:
Briank said:
moehr said:
OK Ken :wink: Have you seen IRobot?
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Look very closely at the brake pads...all four corners of all four pads.
If that is not it: look for bent dust shield.
This has happened to me too. You _really_ have to look for it, otherwise it can hide very well.
Look for scrape marks on the rotor, this will give the best clue.
Drew
If that is not it: look for bent dust shield.
This has happened to me too. You _really_ have to look for it, otherwise it can hide very well.
Look for scrape marks on the rotor, this will give the best clue.
Drew
That could be a bad wheel bearing too... most likely when the scratching sound changes when you make right/left turns.
How about this. If you can get the car completely off the ground, put the car in neutral, and rotate the wheel with your hand, you might be able to find the little gremlin that's causing the noise 
Usually a bad bearing will not make that kind of noise. If it's scraping and it's a bearing, the wheel should have fallen off by now. Look at those brake pads more closely and not just the outside pads. The inner pads on the NSX seem to wear a lot faster than the outer pads. If that were the case, then the pad wear limit scraper would be hitting the inner part of the rotor and making that noise. Also if the noise is a high screeching type of grating, then it's coming from some thin sheet metal which could be a bent splash shield, or that wear limit tab we spoke about. Good luck.
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I have the same noise from the right rear. I know it is the brakes as the tech said the brakes were down to a few mms. I forget how many but it wasn't much. I ignore the noise as it disappears after going out of the parking lot.
I haven't driven more than a 1000 kilometers since the tech said he needed to change the pads soon. Car only has 45k km but I am the last of the late brakers.
I haven't driven more than a 1000 kilometers since the tech said he needed to change the pads soon. Car only has 45k km but I am the last of the late brakers.
ATERPAK said:
Not necessarily. I had such a case with my car and the wheel didn't come off for some thousands kilometers (that was 'til the techies found the cause of the noise).
thanks to everybody for the advice and direction. I have an appointment to have a brake specialist take a look at the problem tomorrow. FYI one additional symptom has appeared:the same wheel makes a really weird noise when I back the car up (kind of like a cat moaning). Anyway, thanks again and I will be back if they cant figure it out tomorrow.
Suspensionmoehr said:
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moehr said:
Mine just made that backing up noise for the first time today. I've only put on 400kms this year but I think I may have left the needed pad replacement for too long. I see a tiny tiny groove in the rotor.
Mine did't fell off either and I driven the car till I felt I cannot drive the car since it felt like the wheels are getting stuck. It was giving the metal scraping sound. Bad wheel bearings. If you notice that you need to press a lot more on the gas to move the car it could mean that the bearing is going bad usually accompanied with metal scraping sound.
NSX-Racer said:
I had the same problem amonth ago. It was by brake pads once I replaced them the sound was gone.
Hi everybody,
My left rear wheel bearing is going.
I checked at the Honda dealer, he wants €350 ($400) for it. He sells the hub with the two bearings in it.
Does anybody know the part number for only the bearings? Or the equivalent bearing in SKF or other bearing manufacturer?
The bearing itself should cost less than $50.
Heck, for $400 I could machine up a whole new hub…
Or maybe it’s easier to order it from Dali or SOS…But I can’t any on their websites.
It’s been grinding away for about 20,000 miles, no kidding. Those suckers are STRONG. Hasn’t fallen off yet, I still had 4 wheels last time I looked.
BTW it is not loose, it’s impossible to wiggle. Only by the sound is it possible to identify.
When I go around left corners it gets much quieter. Right and straight it makes a noise, more when turning right.
Now the noise is driving me crazy and now I finally have time to fix it.
Are there any exact details on those bearings? Has anybody tried changing only the bearings?
Regards,
Cheapskate Peter
My left rear wheel bearing is going.
I checked at the Honda dealer, he wants €350 ($400) for it. He sells the hub with the two bearings in it.
Does anybody know the part number for only the bearings? Or the equivalent bearing in SKF or other bearing manufacturer?
The bearing itself should cost less than $50.
Heck, for $400 I could machine up a whole new hub…
Or maybe it’s easier to order it from Dali or SOS…But I can’t any on their websites.
It’s been grinding away for about 20,000 miles, no kidding. Those suckers are STRONG. Hasn’t fallen off yet, I still had 4 wheels last time I looked.
BTW it is not loose, it’s impossible to wiggle. Only by the sound is it possible to identify.
When I go around left corners it gets much quieter. Right and straight it makes a noise, more when turning right.
Now the noise is driving me crazy and now I finally have time to fix it.
Are there any exact details on those bearings? Has anybody tried changing only the bearings?
Regards,
Cheapskate Peter
Here is another possibility that I have come across on other Hondas/Acuras that I maintain (family cars).
Sometimes when they do chip sealing of asphalt roads a small 2-3mm rock can get lodged between the rotor and the sheet metal guard that protects the back side of the brake rotor. If you have noticed driving on any roads like this take a look. It will make the scraping noise too.
If it isn't the pads look close with a bright flashlight for that little rock.
Brad
Sometimes when they do chip sealing of asphalt roads a small 2-3mm rock can get lodged between the rotor and the sheet metal guard that protects the back side of the brake rotor. If you have noticed driving on any roads like this take a look. It will make the scraping noise too.
If it isn't the pads look close with a bright flashlight for that little rock.
Brad
Obviously since they were pressed in at the factory they can be pressed out and back in again if you have the right tools. The dealer doesn't have a part number for the bearing since they only want to sell you the entire hub. But you may be in luck. Since I have a hub that's off the car try this number. JAPAN - SL NT HUB098-13 or HU8098-13 I can't vouch for the inner bearing number since it's not visible. I think you'll have to take the hub apart before you can get at the number for this bearing. Acura may also be disquising this bearing number to avoid people like you fixing problems like this at a lower price. From there use only the highest quality replacement you can find. If the specs. match they should be the same. Good luck on this.
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If you can't find a generic equivalent, factory part number on the rear bearings is 42300-SL0-008. Left and right are the same.
I think the part number for just the bearing is 42300-SL0-008. Someone please confirm this. It should be the bearing housing with ball bearings in it. I also think it need to be press off the wheel hub.
710 said:
Is that an Acura part number or the actual bearing number? This number would be universal and available from numerous sources. I think the number listed above is an Acura number. That would be okay if they can get you the part at a reasonable price.
I'm sure you figured this out by now...but for all who are on this page the easiest way to get this off is use a cutoff wheel...cut 98% through take a chizzle and hit it..it will split and you can slide it off. If you knick the hub take some sand paper or Emery board and smooth it out otherwise it could hang up when you press the new bearings onto the hub
I have used bearing separators with success to pry that race off. Even the Harbor Fright one... although it's crap and you're lucky to get both off before the tool breaks. Soak the heck out of it with PB Blaster or the like. You just tighten it down along large bolts down two sides of it, a lot like a coil compressor, and there is a wedge that will give leverage between the hub and race to pop the race upward. If it's still stuck after the full application of the separator, at least you can get a puller or cutoff on it at that point.
Here's the crappy HF version
Here's the crappy HF version
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