New Owner Checking in, (some questions too)

[bc777]

Hello Prime,

As stated, new owner checking in. I've been read for quite some time now, and I still have a few questions b/c my search skills is not as great yet

91 NSX:

#1 Does the NA2 OEM header directly old on to the 91 NSX with no modifications? or Adaptors, and if so, can someone link me to the place I would buy it.

#2 I assume the Taitec GT Lights directly bolt on.

#2a I assume Foam filter/ NA2 headers / Taitec Gt is the best setup for daily driving?

#3 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for timing belt and waterpump? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

#4 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for the Clutch? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

#5 Are OEM brake pads the "preferred" pads to use for daily driving? I've seen some threads on "hawk" pads. Which is the way to go?

#6 And how important is it to convert the AC?

#7 What are the standard offsets for this car, (I'd like the 18/17 setup) and what offset and tires sizes are ideal for 18/17?

And any additional infomation I need to know besides:

Out of Snap Ring
Coolant Tank Leaks

I'd like to take time to thank everyone for their help,

BC777 :smile:

 

[bc777]

I forgot:

Can someone address the issues of 95 OEM, vs 2002 OEM wheels, and spaceers for a 91.

Thanks again,

 

[SuperSonic]

Hello Prime,

As stated, new owner checking in. I've been read for quite some time now, and I still have a few questions b/c my search skills is not as great yet

91 NSX:

#1 Does the NA2 OEM header directly old on to the 91 NSX with no modifications? or Adaptors, and if so, can someone link me to the place I would buy it.

#2 I assume the Taitec GT Lights directly bolt on.

#2a I assume Foam filter/ NA2 headers / Taitec Gt is the best setup for daily driving?

#3 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for timing belt and waterpump? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

#4 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for the Clutch? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

#5 Are OEM brake pads the "preferred" pads to use for daily driving? I've seen some threads on "hawk" pads. Which is the way to go?

#6 And how important is it to convert the AC?

#7 What are the standard offsets for this car, (I'd like the 18/17 setup) and what offset and tires sizes are ideal for 18/17?

And any additional infomation I need to know besides:

Out of Snap Ring
Coolant Tank Leaks

I'd like to take time to thank everyone for their help,

BC777 :smile:

1. Im 99 percent sure it does
2. Any exhaust with the cats still on will be ok for the most part except the tailtec jgtc or gtone
3.Ramon is the best, honest man, great guy. probably around 1000 bucks for this service.
4.you are in same boat as me in regards to the above items. I not sure but i think about 1200 for the clutch, but ramon will for sure be cheaper if you do both as he said individually he would normally leave the engine in to do one or the other but I told him i wanted to do all three and it would be easier for him to pull the motor.
5. Not a brake guy
6. dont even know what this process is
7. check the wheels and tires section

 

[ChopsJazz]

Many of your questions can be addressed using the search button. Buta as far as I know:
1. Do you mean "bolt" on? AFIK. no
2. Yes
2a. Any good header exhaust is good for DD, provided it is the sound you want to live with daily.
3. The price for this service varies from shop to shop. Expect to pay $1200 to $1500.
4. I think most shops are in the $900 price range for this install.
5. OEM are fine. Hawks dust up quite a bit and they make some noise in my experience. Project Mu are nice.
6. Are talking about a conversion to r134a refrigerant? I had mine done. It's not important until you want to recharge you old freon system and find that you can't do it anymore.
7. I'm not sure about offsets, but I think many guys run wheels with about +35 offset? Do a search.

 

[bc777]

Many of your questions can be addressed using the search button. Buta as far as I know:
1. Do you mean "bolt" on? AFIK. no
2. Yes
2a. Any good header exhaust is good for DD, provided it is the sound you want to live with daily.
3. The price for this service varies from shop to shop. Expect to pay $1200 to $1500.
4. I think most shops are in the $900 price range for this install.
5. OEM are fine. Hawks dust up quite a bit and they make some noise in my experience. Project Mu are nice.
6. Are talking about a conversion to r134a refrigerant? I had mine done. It's not important until you want to recharge you old freon system and find that you can't do it anymore.
7. I'm not sure about offsets, but I think many guys run wheels with about +35 offset? Do a search.

Thanks NSXFTW for your comments.


Ken: I'm getting better and better on the search as we're speaking. (I'm less than 1 week old as a member)

Can you explain "AFIK". I'm a complete newbie. (Sorry)


Looks like you been an very active member, can you tell me what Fluids you like to use on the components of your car.

And once again I appreciate everyones help.

 

[TyraNSX]

AFIK/AFAIK= As Far As I Know

How to use the search (a nearly extinct skill on this forum)

Note- you do not need to fill in who made the post you're after. It helps narrow things down though.

 

[bc777]

Thanks Tony. Your link/help really helped pin-point my searches. I also found your post on the transmission fluids and their links. (although I'm still a little confused on using motor oil vs Honda MTF vs GM Friction Modd'ed. Seems like its a 3 way tie between the 3 fluids, and everyone swears theirs is the best)

 

[Big_D]

Hello Prime,

As stated, new owner checking in. I've been read for quite some time now, and I still have a few questions b/c my search skills is not as great yet

91 NSX:

#1 Does the NA2 OEM header directly old on to the 91 NSX with no modifications? or Adaptors, and if so, can someone link me to the place I would buy it.

#2 I assume the Taitec GT Lights directly bolt on.

#2a I assume Foam filter/ NA2 headers / Taitec Gt is the best setup for daily driving?

#3 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for timing belt and waterpump? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

#4 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for the Clutch? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

#5 Are OEM brake pads the "preferred" pads to use for daily driving? I've seen some threads on "hawk" pads. Which is the way to go?

#6 And how important is it to convert the AC?

#7 What are the standard offsets for this car, (I'd like the 18/17 setup) and what offset and tires sizes are ideal for 18/17?

And any additional infomation I need to know besides:

Out of Snap Ring
Coolant Tank Leaks

I'd like to take time to thank everyone for their help,

BC777 :smile:

#1 No. unless you get adapters or buy an NA2 cats and exhaust.

#2 All aftermarket exhausts bolt directly to you OEM cats. Taitec Lightweight drones quite a bit. Parallel is a lot better but is still pretty loud. The RM or B&B has a nice tone.

#2a I would stick with a OEM paper filter. Any headers and exhaust make driving the NSX more fun.

#3 Between $800-$900 for an independant. Ramon is a great guy.

#5 I ran Hawk pads and they produce some dust but I never had any noise issues and they bite really good.

#6 Its better to keep the R-12 refridgerant since it uses less pressure which means less prone to leaks. Some shops still have R-12 around.

#7 spend some time in the wheels and tire forum. This topic has been beat to death.

 

[Honcho]

#1 Does the NA2 OEM header directly old on to the 91 NSX with no modifications? or Adaptors, and if so, can someone link me to the place I would buy it.

No. You need to buy a set of adaptors to connect the headers to your 91 cats. ScienceOfSpeed sells them here: http://www.scienceofspeed.com/products/exhaust_airflow_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/factory_header_adaptors/ Remember that not all NA2 headers are the same. 97-99 and 2000-05 headers are different, so make sure you know what you are buying.

#2 I assume the Taitec GT Lights directly bolt on.

AFAIK, yes.

#2a I assume Foam filter/ NA2 headers / Taitec Gt is the best setup for daily driving?

No. The OEM airbox with paper filter is the best intake option for your NSX. It makes the most power and torque of all the intakes out there. The foam filter will let a lot of crud into your engine. NA2 headers are very close to aftermarket in terms of power. Plus they have heat shields. The Taitec GTLW is a nice exhaust and lots of people use it. Exhaust is a personal preference in terms of sound, but most all of them flow better than the OEM.

#3 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for timing belt and waterpump? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

Around $1000.

#4 What the general price I should expect for LABOR ONLY for the Clutch? (I supply the parts) and (Niguel and Autowave are the closest to me)

Again, around $1000.

#5 Are OEM brake pads the "preferred" pads to use for daily driving? I've seen some threads on "hawk" pads. Which is the way to go?

The OEM pads are excellent for almost all conditions, but they are expensive. I use Project Mu Type NS pads and love them. More bite than OEM, less fade and little dust. All for half the price.

#6 And how important is it to convert the AC?

Not important. R12 is more efficient than R134, so if your system is not leaking just run with it.

#7 What are the standard offsets for this car, (I'd like the 18/17 setup) and what offset and tires sizes are ideal for 18/17?

The information you need is here: http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Wheel_Tech You might want to reconsider using bigger rims. They are heavy, which means they are harder on the suspension, and they reduce the effective gear ratio of your car, making it feel slower. If you are going for looks, then have at it. I think a slammed NSX on 19’s looks badass. But, if you are interested in performance and daily driving comfort, the smaller and lighter the better. A good compromise are the OEM wheels. All OEM wheels are the NSX are forged alloy, which means they are light and strong, unlike many aftermarket rims, which are cast. The 15/16 are the “best” in terms of weight, but your contact patch will be slightly less than ideal due to the skinny tires. The OEM 16/17 are GREAT wheels, as are the 17/17 2002+, which are what I use. If you don’t like the OEM style, you can find forged wheels like the Volk TE37 or CE28, or the Prodrive line. Again, check SOS. I personally would not go over 17 inches for a daily driven NSX. It gives you some more bump/pothole protection.

 

[tbromley]

Great write up Honcho, and excellent thorough advice. I have a follow up to this dissertation - the pads you use - where do you get them? I am still using my OEM original pads and rotors at 46k miles! They are still in excellent shape - so I'm curious, how long do you suppose the pads you are using will last by comparison? Do you know?

Thanks,

 

[Honcho]

Thanks Tim. I got my Project Mu pads from Dali. They seem to be wearing about the same as the OEM, but with slightly more dust (still minimal). Much better bite though. I still have OEM on my rear brakes.

 

[nsx_2k]

I saw that you have a '91. If you are going to have that much work done, one thing that I might recommend is to have all (~23) coolant hoses replaced. I believe it is easier (and cheaper) to do when performed at the same time that such major service is being performed. Having had this done recently, I can tell you that it is money well invested for my original hoses were almost ready to go which could have been disasterous.

 

[tbromley]

I saw that you have a '91. If you are going to have that much work done, one thing that I might recommend is to have all (~23) coolant hoses replaced. I believe it is easier (and cheaper) to do when performed at the same time that such major service is being performed. Having had this done recently, I can tell you that it is money well invested for my original hoses were almost ready to go which could have been disasterous.

Excellent advice. You really don't want an aluminum engine coolant hose to blow - bad news to the engine. If it happens shut it down immediately - that's what you pay that cell phone bill for! I would say that there are probably more like 13 hoses that are a must to change - the others are of very minor concern as I have been told by a source I respect. I also think the difference you read on number of hoses is due to the automatics having more hoses. The manual has less and I think it's 21.

Good advice though!

 

[bc777]

I saw that you have a '91. If you are going to have that much work done, one thing that I might recommend is to have all (~23) coolant hoses replaced. I believe it is easier (and cheaper) to do when performed at the same time that such major service is being performed. Having had this done recently, I can tell you that it is money well invested for my original hoses were almost ready to go which could have been disasterous.

Thanks for the great advice. I completely for got about these 19 year old hoses.

 

[bc777]

Honcho and new friends,

Thanks for taking your time and helping me out. Hopefully some of the newbies will be reading this too, and gaining from you guys.