new nsx owner wanna be

[skillz4587]

Hi board. Brand new member here. I have been reading this forum for a few weeks and I am very appreciative for the wealth of information that you guys provide. Well, I am looking to join the club and purchase an NSX. I have narrowed it down to a couple of selections. My question is if it makes more sense to spend the 33-40k on a lower mileage (20000-45000 miles) 91-93 model or spend 20-25 k on a high mileage (156000 miles +) and use 14-20k to fix up the high mileage vehicle.
I am estimating I can get new seats, used low mileage engine (if needed), and some interior work done and wide body kit for about 18k not counting labor (please correct me if I am way off). I am assuming that given the age of the vehicle, some items (i.e. seats) will need to be replaced whether or not I get a low mileage vehicle or high mileage vehicle. I am also curious to see which option would have a better resale value in the long run. Don’t plan on selling my NSX once I get it but you never know what financial mishaps could happen in the future to make me rethink selling the car.

 

[Daedalus]

You won't get anywhere near your refresh costs when you sell the car. Whichever you buy, don't spend a lot on refurbishing it if you care about recouping your investment. Buy cheap and sell cheap or buy high and sell high. A 45k-mile car can still be spectacular if it has been well cared for.

 

[NsXMas]

Welcome!

Are you going to drive it a lot? If so, a higher mileage, cheaper NSX might be the way to go.

The lower mileage NSXs do bring a premium, so if you're going to put a lot of miles on it you'll be reducing the value of the lower mileage.

 

[skillz4587]

Thanks for your input. Well, I guess I will not go overboard trying to refurbish the car but I will at least do some minor interior modifications starting with the seats. The rest of the funds can be set aside for unexpected repairs.

I don’t really see myself putting to many miles on the car; probably about 5000-6000 miles per year. There is construction going on where I work so I will only be driving on the weekend. But even when construction is complete, I don’t really see myself driving the car on a regular basis to work.

Thanks again for your input.

 

[clr1024]

Thanks for your input. Well, I guess I will not go overboard trying to refurbish the car but I will at least do some minor interior modifications starting with the seats. The rest of the funds can be set aside for unexpected repairs.

I don’t really see myself putting to many miles on the car; probably about 5000-6000 miles per year. There is construction going on where I work so I will only be driving on the weekend. But even when construction is complete, I don’t really see myself driving the car on a regular basis to work.

Thanks again for your input.

Low mileage car with up to date records.

 

[DocL]

I'd say go for a medium mileage car, around 50,000-70,000 on the odo. Why? Because when you get the NSX you'll find yourself wanting to drive it everyday. If you start out with a 150,000 mile car, before you know it you'll have 200,000 miles and that brings on a lot of wear and tear. Besides, if you ever decide to sell it will be more difficult with 200,000+ miles. I bought my NSX with 4,100 miles on it and I now have 63,xxx. I plan on keeping my NSX for a very long time, so I don't care how many miles I put on it. Starting out with lower miles is definitely better for the long term.

HTH. :smile:

 

[skillz4587]

Thanks for the advice. My next concern is going to be the inspection; I located a car out of state so I can't have my mechanic take a look at it. Would you recommend staying local and using a mechanic I feel comfortable with but be limited to higher mileage vehicle (about 35,000 miles more) or go out of state for a lower mileage vehicle and using an Acura dealers mechanic? I know either mechanic I use will not be liable for anything that they miss (and I will have them using the checklist) but I feel my mechanic will do more of a thorough job.

 

[Cairo94507]

Thanks for the advice. My next concern is going to be the inspection; I located a car out of state so I can't have my mechanic take a look at it. Would you recommend staying local and using a mechanic I feel comfortable with but be limited to higher mileage vehicle (about 35,000 miles more) or go out of state for a lower mileage vehicle and using an Acura dealers mechanic? I know either mechanic I use will not be liable for anything that they miss (and I will have them using the checklist) but I feel my mechanic will do more of a thorough job.

I say if you limit yourself to a local car you might never find one or you might miss a really nice one. Unless your mechanic is an NSX mechanic who has seen and worked on a lot of NSX's, I would always recommend going with an Acura dealership with an NSX trained/experienced mechanic. They will know exaclty where the issues are to be found if they exist. Good luck with your search.

 

[skillz4587]

Am, I asking for trouble if I use the acura dealers inhouse mechanics, if I am getting the car from the acura dealer? Or would they be obligated to give an unbias assessment of the car? If its not recommended to use the inhouse mechanic, is it likely that they will allow me to have it taken to another 3rd party mechanic prior to purchase, if they have a deposit?

 

[clr1024]

Am, I asking for trouble if I use the acura dealers inhouse mechanics, if I am getting the car from the acura dealer? Or would they be obligated to give an unbias assessment of the car? If its not recommended to use the inhouse mechanic, is it likely that they will allow me to have it taken to another 3rd party mechanic prior to purchase, if they have a deposit?

Post the area you are looking in and someone may be able to recommend a local independant mechanic. Personally I would rather get an outside opinion, it may cost you a $100 or so but it will be worth it.

 

[skillz4587]

One of the prospective cars is in New York. The other Louisiana. I have found a local in New York. That car is my first option for now as long as there isnt any major repairs needed.

Thanks again for the input.

 

[skillz4587]

HELP!!! The car I am interested in buying has a transmission # in the snap ring range. The price seems to be pretty reasonable 31k with 32000 miles so I don’t see me being able to get him to drop the price enough to make up for the possible transmission replacement. The dealer says that the car drives tight and it’s very unlikely that the car will have transmission issues (lol, like he would tell me anything different). I am seriously debating going to my second option, which is a low mileage automatic. Unfortunately since I am financing through my credit union, mileage is an issue. I know most people on the board will say to either wait for another car or go with the first option for performance and resale reasons but I am mainly looking at this in regards to maintenance. Acceleration, difference in horsepower is not really a major factor, not really planning on racing. My feelings are not fragile so all the standard derogatory automatic transmissions" comments are not a problem I just want useful information.

 

[TURBO2GO]

Its a personal decision man... whatever you like. I personally would NEVER buy this car in an auto. You take 50% of the fun away. Nevermind that its slower and you can't really upgrade it much either.

Some like autos and thats cool, just not for me. I already have 3 other auto cars.

 

[skillz4587]

From what I was able to find out on this site, the snap ring issue can be fixed for about 2000-2500 dollars. However, I am not sure if this is going to be a temporary or permanent solution. I don’t want to shell out 2500 and still have the transmission fail later on in the future. Can someone give additional input in regards to getting the issue fixed before the transmission fails?

 

[comtec]

From what I was able to find out on this site, the snap ring issue can be fixed for about 2000-2500 dollars. However, I am not sure if this is going to be a temporary or permanent solution. I don’t want to shell out 2500 and still have the transmission fail later on in the future. Can someone give additional input in regards to getting the issue fixed before the transmission fails?

Not all cars in range will fail, it may fail tomorrow or never. The snap ring problem is basicly that the case of the transmission was not made correctly on some cars in the range, not all. If you have it repaired then they will replace the case so you won't have to worry about the snap ring failing after it is fixed.

Buy it and just drive it. If the Transmission never fails, you saved the money. If the transmission does fail, call AAA for a tow and replace the transmission with a 6 speed.