New clutch - pedal "feel" still not right

[Bigglezworth]

Howdy gang. Performed a crate 6spd swap on my ride a few months back. Put in a slightly used factory dual mass clutch/flywheel combination. Clutch disk had lots of wear left and pressure plate in fine condition. Project swap went well aside from problems with nut removal for each drive axle. Have been driving all year and still can't get past the fact that the clutch doesn't "feel" right.

My used twin disk clutch from the 5 speed was at the top of the pedal which for myself to date has always indicated a worn clutch that will be in need of replacement sooner than later. My ride showed this symptom late last fall after my final two track dates and started slipping subsequently on my final drive home just prior to Halloween when the car was parked for the winter months. In the sprince I installed the new tranny and clutch package. Since then I've put on 3000 kms and continue to still have the clutch activating at the top portion of the pedal. I have not attended an lapping events this year simply due to conflicts in schedule, so don't know if I'm simply having a "feel" issue or an actual "clutch" issue. Cable operated clutches can have the location where the pressure plate is activated by the release/throw-out bearing. Hydraulic I don't believe has that adjustment ability.

Anyway, I would like to hear from those in the know with clutches on what your appreciation is given my description above. If you feel this might get wordy, I would welcome direct calls to me (or to you) at home in the evenings also. PM me with info or respond to this post.

Thanks everyone in advance.
Tim

 

[NSXR2]

Rudimentary checklist
1) bleed out clutch line
2) clutch pedal adjustment within factory spec

Side note
Its generally accepted that one should flat out replace, not just the clutch, but also the flywheel whenever a clutch replacement is performed.
Since this was a previously used set, I'd venture to say that they (both clutch and flywheel) are in need of replacement.

-Joe

 

[Bigglezworth]

Clutch was reverse bled. Mileage on parts was a nominal 2000 miles. Hardly enough to even begin contemplating any type of swap out for replacement items. Flywheel was replaced as part of the effort as I went from dual disk to single disk set-up. Came as a full set-up from another member that swapped out the barely broken in stock for aftermarket. Will double check the pedal free play set-up again as I feel that is the likely offender.

Thanks
Tim

 

[Larry Bastanza]

First of all - ALL NSX Clutches grab high, just the way it is.

Check the end play, about 1/2 is typical, dispite the spec of 1mm-7mm, basically you must always have "some" play when the car is fully warm.

Drive another single plate 1997+ car to compare, then judge it.

I usually can tell the thickness (relatively anyway) by the feel of the initial grab of the clutch vs. full release of foot pressure on the pedal. I can feel the thickness of the disk. If you get initial grad and there is no meat to the pedal feel it is getting very thin, if you feel some meat on it, the clutch is still OK.

HTH,
LarryB