Need Help with some used Headers

[Hiroshima]

Picked up some mild Steel C-Tech headers recently. Looks like they are in good shape but need some help on what to do with a few issues they *do* have.

These are the headers with the accordian style flex joints. Inside the rear bank headers there is a inner flexible pipe that appears to be completely loose from the flex joint. I can easily move it around with my finger but I cannot remove it from the header.

Q1. I assume this should be attached as the front set of headers has a similar pipe but it *is* attached. What should I do? Should I just have the entire flex joint replaced with a new one and have the flange re-welded onto the new joint? Or should I just have that flex tube welded back onto the original flange?

Q2: On the front headers there is a crack in the inside flex tube. Same question applies here as in Q1. Replace or fix.

Q3. Is there any + of having it re-coated? They look pretty good and have very little signs of rust. The coating is not chipped anywhere that I can tell. I am leaning towards just fixing the joints and installing w/o recoating unless there is a great reason to recoat.

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

 

[Hiroshima]

Overall condition of accordion joint

 

[Joseph]

fix it right once. Just buy one of these to replace the flex joints

 

[titaniumdave]

I can help you, I had the same problem, I used VW CAT adaptors to replace the flex joints, the flex joints posted by Joseph will work fine too. Here is the thread I posted about my repair:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33707

I have a jig which will work for both headers for 91-94 cars, happy to help if you want to send them to me, ends up being $100-150 labor per header and they will end up being better than new :wink: . I can also put in extra bungs at the same time if you want, no charge as long as I am cleaning and welding anyway.

PM if interested.
Dave

 

[Hiroshima]

Titanium Dave and Joseph.

Thanks for the great help.

One more question if I may. What was the reason that the O2 sensor was moved to the collector rather than at the primary? Does this in some way improve how the car smogs or how my car will run?

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Jeff

 

[titaniumdave]

Titanium Dave and Joseph.

Thanks for the great help.

One more question if I may. What was the reason that the O2 sensor was moved to the collector rather than at the primary? Does this in some way improve how the car smogs or how my car will run?

Thanks again for all the help guys.

Jeff

Having the O2 sensor at the collector will give an average of the three cylinders flowing into the header. This should create slightly better A/F ratios for the stock ECU. The stock O2 sensor is an on-off switch, sensing only if the A/F ratio is 14.7 or not, by using an average of more cylinders the pulses sent to the injectors should be more consistant.