Need floor jack for lowered NSX?
- Thread starter E36S50
- Start date
Dali Racing sells a quality Floor Jack. www.daliracing.com
I usually have to drive the car up onto a 2x4 to get it high enough to fit a jack under the car(whichever side I'm working on). You can get a floor jack at most auto parts store and use the above method which should work for you.
I've never seen or heard of a super low profile jack that fits under lowered cars. I have seen the aluminum jack from Snap On and I'll still have to lift my car to get it under there.
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Richard
NSXTASY
I've never seen or heard of a super low profile jack that fits under lowered cars. I have seen the aluminum jack from Snap On and I'll still have to lift my car to get it under there.
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Richard
NSXTASY
Girot's (spelling?)Garage has a low profile jack, but it's expensive.
I put four 2X4 pieces of wood about 36" long on the garage floor (1 1/2" side) and drive my NSX up on them. Then my $39.99 jack fits perfectly. When finished I pull out the wood, lower the jack and the car stays up high enough to get the jack out because the suspension does not settle until the car is driven.
I put four 2X4 pieces of wood about 36" long on the garage floor (1 1/2" side) and drive my NSX up on them. Then my $39.99 jack fits perfectly. When finished I pull out the wood, lower the jack and the car stays up high enough to get the jack out because the suspension does not settle until the car is driven.
I bought one from sears for $30 bucks. My car is stock and it slides right under. No 2x4 or anything.
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92 Red/Blk
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92 Red/Blk
Just today I was measuring the vertical distance between the garage floor and the jacking points on my NSX with stock tires and suspension. The distance was between 4 1/2" and 4 3/4". That's what a jack would need to handle without 2x4's.
Using 2x4's is cumbersome, particularly at the track. This is one of the reasons I've decided not to lower my car with the impending installation of new Bilstein struts.
Using 2x4's is cumbersome, particularly at the track. This is one of the reasons I've decided not to lower my car with the impending installation of new Bilstein struts.
I have two little plastic ramps from Pep Boys or Auto Zone that raise the car about two inches. They are pretty flat, fit togehter for storage and probably wiegh about a pound or pound and a half total. They are made to go with some big yellow ramps that the store was seling, but I use them by themselves to get the jack under the car. Five or six of my muscle car friends went out and bought some after they saw them. They are also great for getting my car onto the trailer.
Gents,
I bought the Lincoln low-lift jack per the numerous recommendations by this community in the past. However, it is no longer made in the US and it failed to work the second time I used it. The best price/performance/looks jack made has just been introduced by Norco. I got one and it is absolutely fantastic. Very , very cool design. Will cost you about $300. Here is a link to their website and specs.
http://norcoindustries.com/newproducts/71202.htm
I bought the Lincoln low-lift jack per the numerous recommendations by this community in the past. However, it is no longer made in the US and it failed to work the second time I used it. The best price/performance/looks jack made has just been introduced by Norco. I got one and it is absolutely fantastic. Very , very cool design. Will cost you about $300. Here is a link to their website and specs.
http://norcoindustries.com/newproducts/71202.htm
I got the aluminum jack like the onw Griot's garage sells, only the capacity rating is 3000lbs. Cost is about $400, email me if interested.
I use a different approach...
I take the factory jack from the trunk and use it to lift the car slightly off center, then use my regular floor jack on the jacking points.
Works fine, and requires no further spending
I also use the factory jack as a "backup" while I have my regular jack under, just in case one gives the other will support it.
-B
I take the factory jack from the trunk and use it to lift the car slightly off center, then use my regular floor jack on the jacking points.
Works fine, and requires no further spending
I also use the factory jack as a "backup" while I have my regular jack under, just in case one gives the other will support it.
-B
Does anyone know the weight of the Griot's jack? I looked on their site and couldn't find the info, I want to take the jack with me racing and don't want a real heavy one.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm, I must have missed this topic in this forum .......
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000481.html
Anywho, I installed the Bilstein on the lower perch and using the same reference points as Ken did, the front is now 0.7" lower while the back only 0.5" after driving only 5 miles from the shop but I have not aligned it yet. The critical test: it cleared my driveway without a problem (but I did shave 0.5" from Dali's deflector as that was my weakest link .......
You can also slide some of the low saddle jacks like the one at Sears (2 1/4 ton Craftsman for $30) by just lifting the car a little from the fenders .... best done with four hands though ........
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000481.html
Anywho, I installed the Bilstein on the lower perch and using the same reference points as Ken did, the front is now 0.7" lower while the back only 0.5" after driving only 5 miles from the shop but I have not aligned it yet. The critical test: it cleared my driveway without a problem (but I did shave 0.5" from Dali's deflector as that was my weakest link .......
You can also slide some of the low saddle jacks like the one at Sears (2 1/4 ton Craftsman for $30) by just lifting the car a little from the fenders .... best done with four hands though ........
For rim swaps, I just use the factory scissor jack. To get the car on jack stands, I use the scissor jack under the rear jack point to lift the car high enough to get the real jack under the center point, and then go from there. Kind of a pain, but an extra 2 minutes to get the car on jack stands is far outweighed by the looks and handling of having the car lower.
-Mike
-Mike
You may find this interesting...after the war Koni split into two seperate divisions. One made shocks the other made hydraulic lifts. From the Koni hydraulic divison is another...AC Hydraulic, which produces industrial quality floor jacks at a surprising price. I have the DK-20 model which sits only 3"inches high! It only costs about $175 bucks too. Check it out... http://www.stertil-koni.com/index.html
Yep, this has a 3.15" saddlle height with 4400 lbs capacity however it weighs 65 lbs. (the DK20Q comes with a quick foot release) .......... they have a local wholesale distribution in town and I called them. The wholesale price for the DK20 is $275 [not $175 ... so if there are any at $175 let's grab them ASAP]which is 25% below the retial of $351 (the DK20Q retails at $390).
With some volume he may be able to take another 10% for a 35% discount ........ but California residents pay sales tax.
With some volume he may be able to take another 10% for a 35% discount ........ but California residents pay sales tax.
$275.00??? Hmmmn, I'm sorry, I may be incorrect. I'll have to look back and see for sure where and how much I actually did pay for it. It's been awhile, but it still works great! Just to add... the Norco jack that "kpond" suggested seems like a very nice unit as well. I'll see what I can dig up on my DK20
[This message has been edited by Sensei (edited 31 May 2002).]
[This message has been edited by Sensei (edited 31 May 2002).]
I checked this out, it says one ton (2000 lbs) and is priced at $599. Am I missing something.
and Sensei wrote:
"$275.00??? Hmmmn, I'm sorry, I may be incorrect. I'll have to look back and see for sure where and how much I actually did pay for it. It's been awhile, but it still works great! Just to add... the Norco jack that "kpond" suggested seems like a very nice unit as well. I'll see what I can dig up on my DK20 "
Were you able to confirm this? One of our local guys is about to place an order ........
Cheers.
Hrant- Sorry I didn't get back... Well I found that I did purchase the DK20 for under $200 and that included the optional rubber pad, and the shipping. BTW I rarely, if never use the rubber pad. This was a while back and it had a $199 retail price.
They now have them listed for $229 each, but I would suggest asking them for a 10%-15% discount because...(for what ever reason you can think of) Although at $229, it's still a bargin. Here's the link
http://www.alltiresupply.com/
Choritsu-shi
They now have them listed for $229 each, but I would suggest asking them for a 10%-15% discount because...(for what ever reason you can think of) Although at $229, it's still a bargin. Here's the link
http://www.alltiresupply.com/
Choritsu-shi
Yes this is very surpsrising as the local wholesale distributor is noting 35% discount would be max and that only with volume which brings it to $228!
For All Tire Supplies Co. to sell it at $229 with free shipping (if that is indeed the case), that is a bargain. You may have just saved our local member $70 .......
Will give them a call tomorrow. Thanks
For All Tire Supplies Co. to sell it at $229 with free shipping (if that is indeed the case), that is a bargain. You may have just saved our local member $70 .......
Will give them a call tomorrow. Thanks
No, shipping was not free. In my situation, the jack + optional rubber pad + shipping totaled less than $200. I don't know how, who or why, but I was able to get it at under the $199 retail. (Remember this was a while back.) I did mention that Bruce Nomura of Nomura Tuning and Design referred me. Bruce originally and now again(since I forgot)had given me all this info. He as well has a DK20, and claims of no special privileges or pricing with ATS, but I see no harm in mentioning Nomura Tuning and Design as a referral. (if that is of any help)
Don't thank me, thank Bruce.
Choritsu-shi
