My first Dyno....disappointed

[NSXPR]

I did my first dyno ever today. I only had 265 at the wheels:frown: I was thinking more like 290 I felt kind of disappointed because I only get baby HP for the money I spent.

Here are my mods..

Taitec GTLW Exhaust, Top Speed Headers, ARC Intake, SOS Big Bore Throttle , Downforce Air Intake Scoop, Prospeed ECU & Fuel Injectors

The tuner told me to get an ECU system because he thinks the car has potential to get another possible 15hp at the wheel. The air fuel ratio was a little off. I am thinking if it's worth getting an AEM system for him to tune. What do you think? Are they normal HP for my mods?

 

[06_typeS]

What type of Dyno were you on? Mustang dyno's usually run 10% lower.

 

[blue_myriddn]

model year? mileage?

 

[NSXPR]

I have no idea what dyno it is....What kind of dynos they have out there ??

What type of Dyno were you on? Mustang dyno's usually run 10% lower.

- - - Updated - - -

model year? mileage?

1991 55000 miles

 

[docjohn]

what gear was it done in? rpm seems a little low.Indeed a mustang type dyno runs lower than say the dynojet.Some bone stock 91's only put down 235-240 rwhp.So if your car was one of those than you got the expected 25 or so hp from your bolt ons.

 

[JD Cross]

My bone stock 91 dyno'd at 226 hp on Chad's portable dyno at NSXPO in Las Vegas.
He felt that was about right for a stock unit.
That would suggest your mods have delivered 40 hp which sounds great for what you've done

 

[Albert86]

My car has similar mods - minus the headers, and throttle body.
Here was my first dyno:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/178756-Lite-mod-dyno-results

I was pleased - but the Dyno is the "yardstick" - like someone pointed out above (as I expect) that different dynos may give different readings.
Mine was a "hub" style dyno - took off my wheels and mounted the dyno direct to the rear axles.
Uses electrical resistance - pressure against the drive train.
I thought this looked like a good way to remove some of the variability of tire contact with the rollers - but what do I know.
I asked about this type of dyno vs the roller style you (and most others seem to) used as far as differences between their readings.
No reply ...
I have headers and a few other little things I want to do (ATI balancer + AS Motosports intake spacers and try a stock airbox with stock vs K&N filter).
I will just keep using the same guy - then my yardstick will at least remain constant - then I guess it's weather / barometric pressure as a variable (I think).
My AFR was lowest at 4500 rpm - 11.84 - highest at 6500 rpm - 13.76.
The guys at the shop said it looked OK - don't know what others would say.

You have the mods where I want to be - I just need to get to the garage and make it happen.
Good luck - No I mean skill - on your endeavors.

Al

 

[scammy]

I did my first dyno ever today. I only had 265 at the wheels:frown: I was thinking more like 290 I felt kind of disappointed because I only get baby HP for the money I spent.

Here are my mods..

Taitec GTLW Exhaust, Top Speed Headers, ARC Intake, SOS Big Bore Throttle , Downforce Air Intake Scoop, Prospeed ECU & Fuel Injectors

The tuner told me to get an ECU system because he thinks the car has potential to get another possible 15hp at the wheel. The air fuel ratio was a little off. I am thinking if it's worth getting an AEM system for him to tune. What do you think? Are they normal HP for my mods?

similar mods to my car (for now) and similar HP on a dynapack hub dyno, wait till you put it on a rolling road dyno and drop 30HP from that one then go WTF.
An aftermarket ecu should get around what your tuner said and improve the curve, just remember the cars not a HP monster but how it puts it down is what matters.
see that slight dip between 4750 rpm and 5500 rpm mine has that as well from the Prospeed tune you only notice it at WOT at the track but the dip does annoy me when i am on the back straight the only way to get that curve better is some form of engine management
View attachment Before & After Dyno.pdf

 

[dirtbag]

Actually that's not bad for bolt ons. What's the last few digits of your vin? Mine is #649 , 1991 with about ~56,000 when I dyno'd. Totally stock was 238hp on a Mustang dyno.

I do think if you can keep that torque curve from dipping so much at 7,000 RPMs, you'll pick up a good amount of HP, maybe even hit that 290 mark. A tune will maximize the use of your upgrades.

 

[doc_tai]

265whp for just bolt on is pretty good number. I think u r expecting too much from just pretty much bolt on with out FI. Some older comptech supercharger only make 310-320 whp

 

[Ponyboy]

This isn't bad at all! With a GTLW, Comptech headers, SOS ECU and BB throttle body, Cantrell air scoop, test pipes, and lightweight flywheel, my NSX did 269rwhp and 199rwtq on a Dynojet.

Me thinks you may need to manage expectations a bit better.

 

[SuperSonic]

Agreed. It only has 270 hp so to the wheels 230 sounds good. If you want big gains have to go fi

 

[GSV NSX]

Like everyone said those numbers aren't bad at all. My goal is 270 for an NSX. If you want some extra you can go to the what ifs like the RanUp oil additive and the ATi Super Damper. I would say your next step for more performance would be to take weight off the car and do a small crash diet

 

[shawn110975]

question no-one has asked is your car an Automatic?

and take your car to another Dyno and see what their machine says.

 

[NSXPR]

what gear was it done in? rpm seems a little low.Indeed a mustang type dyno runs lower than say the dynojet.Some bone stock 91's only put down 235-240 rwhp.So if your car was one of those than you got the expected 25 or so hp from your bolt ons.

I was on third gear and I floored after 3k rpm

- - - Updated - - -

Actually that's not bad for bolt ons. What's the last few digits of your vin? Mine is #649 , 1991 with about ~56,000 when I dyno'd. Totally stock was 238hp on a Mustang dyno.

I do think if you can keep that torque curve from dipping so much at 7,000 RPMs, you'll pick up a good amount of HP, maybe even hit that 290 mark. A tune will maximize the use of your upgrades.

Mine is #769

- - - Updated - - -

question no-one has asked is your car an Automatic?

and take your car to another Dyno and see what their machine says.

5 speed

 

[dablackgoku1234]

That probably explains why your torque is so high. 4th gear is more closer to a 1:1 ratio. Most 3.0L get ~190 wtq.

FWIW, your numbers look healthy for a 91.

 

[docjohn]

should be in 4th

 

[Rope]

Torque is not measured at the wheels like hp. It is the amount of work the engine can do and hp is the rate at which the work is performed.

 

[jaja]

Torque is not measured at the wheels like hp. It is the amount of work the engine can do and hp is the rate at which the work is performed.

If you can't measure torque at the wheels, (the force that causes the dyno to turn), how do they measure the rate at which it is applied??

I believe torque is in fact what is measured at the wheels by the dynamometer, and like you said, the power is the rate at which it is applied.
Maybe there is just some confusion :tongue:

Lucas

 

[JD Cross]

Torque is not measured at the wheels like hp. It is the amount of work the engine can do and hp is the rate at which the work is performed.

My understanding is a dyno measures the torque output at the wheels (where else can it measure it?)
Torque is not the amount of work an engine can do.
Hp is the measurement of work.
The hp output is a calculation using the torque output and the rpm.
The formula used always has torque and hp the same at 5252 rpm

 

[jaja]

I agree JD,

Stricktly speaking though: torque (lb ft) IS a measure of work (force applied over a distance), and power (hp) is a measure of power (work per unit time)

The whole 5252 rpm thing is neat but is only true when working with power in hp and torque in lb ft. Working with kW for power and kg m for torque, the magic rpm is 973.

As mentioned by dablackgoku the key to all this is that the gearing/final drive/wheel diameter/dyno diameter all must be known such that there is a 1:1 ratio from crank to dyno measure. Else the numbers on the screen are scaled up or down biasing the torque while power will always be true regardless of gearing.

This may be what rope was trying to get at.

Lucas

I ask the dyno gods to feel free to correct me. I'm doing napkin stuff here.

 

[jwmelvin]

Stricktly speaking though: torque (lb ft) IS a measure of work (force applied over a distance), and power (hp) is a measure of power (work per unit time)

Although torque has units of distance times force, it is not a measure of work. Rotational work is measured by torque multiplied by the angle through which the torque was applied. Put another way, a torque applied on a stationary object has done no work; only once an object rotates has the torque done work.

 

[jaja]

Ahh, well put.

Torque is work per unit radian (or angular distance). Almost like angular work potential, cool.

Thanks jwmelvin.

 

[gleibig]

I thought this was torque....or twerk....

 

[Coconut]

^That is just gross, lol.