My 2.9L Whipple SC

How does an SC boost controller work?

Basically you spin the blower for what you want the max boost to be, say 15psi and if you want less the extra air gets dumped via a bov.

The biggest down side and why you don't see it to often is that it still takes the extra power and creates the same amount of heat to compress the air to 15 psi even if your only using 10 psi of it. But if you're making your goal power anyway what does it matter?
 
This doesn't make sense honestly. It wouldn't be a BOV but a wastegate that lets off the extra boost. You can't slow down the spinning of the supercharger since it is based on your crank spinning the blower. As someone said you would have to set it up for high boost with the pulley, injectors and fuel/timing and then have a wastegate set to dump when you don't want the power. You won't get the better fuel savings while going to low boost so I don't see an advantage.
 
That is correct. You do recycle the compressed air so you’re not dumping to atmosphere. The advantage is being able to let my wife drive it with out totaling the car. I like being able to cruise in low to mid boost and hit the button once you are in 3rd or so. It’s like hitting a nitrous button. I think of this car as one of my toys and gas is great compared to my boat. I have triple 604CI all aluminum motors in my 50' Hustler and gas mileage is about 10Gallons to the mile.
 
This doesn't make sense honestly. It wouldn't be a BOV but a wastegate that lets off the extra boost. You can't slow down the spinning of the supercharger since it is based on your crank spinning the blower. As someone said you would have to set it up for high boost with the pulley, injectors and fuel/timing and then have a wastegate set to dump when you don't want the power. You won't get the better fuel savings while going to low boost so I don't see an advantage.



You are correct. Like I said, You'd set it up for the max boost you want (correctly sized pulley) and you vent the extra boost, not slow down the compressor like you would with a wastegate on a turbo. So the supercharger spins at the same speed for each rpm regardless of the desired boost. It builds the same amount of boost everytime however if you do not want full boost you open the valve and release unwanted, already compressed air until the engine sees the boost you desire. The engine just sees the lower boost and adds fuel and timing accordingly. The only loss is the extra effort to compress the vented/recirc'd air.

Call it a wastegate, call it a BOV, call it a frisbee it does the same thing. Technically it's a Recirc valve since it vents air that has already been compressed to a point in the intake tract before the compressor and not to the atmostsphere in this case at least. I've seen it done both ways on speed density systems like the NSX.

It is not the most efficient method but it accomplishes the owners goals.


Ken,
What part are you using for the valve? do you have any pics?
 
Ken,

I'm a boating nut. Tell us about the Hustler and specifically drive/motor set up/speed etc. I bet that 50 is a wave crusher. Ever run her from Ft. Lauderdale to Key West? When I stay and fish in Islamorada, I see go fast boats making that run all the time.

Brian





That is correct. You do recycle the compressed air so you’re not dumping to atmosphere. The advantage is being able to let my wife drive it with out totaling the car. I like being able to cruise in low to mid boost and hit the button once you are in 3rd or so. It’s like hitting a nitrous button. I think of this car as one of my toys and gas is great compared to my boat. I have triple 604CI all aluminum motors in my 50' Hustler and gas mileage is about 10Gallons to the mile.
 
The SC boost controller would make use of the recirculating valve that is already part of the system.

The recirculating (or bypass) valve is a butterfly valve that blocks a tube from the intake manifold (on the pressure side of the SC) to the intake snout (suction side of the SC).

This valve is there on all the whipple / Autorotor / SOS setups, and it's purpose is to be opened under VACUUM, to reduce the parasitic drag of the SC when the car is under part throttle.

There is a vacuum dashpot connected to an arm that actuates the valve when the intake snout sees vacuum, which happens when the throttle plate is mostly closed during part throttle / cruising.

When this valve opens, it allows air to be sucked directly from the intake snout to the manifold, effectively bypassing the SC. By doing this, the SC just spins (and does move air) but does not generate any pressure and consequently does not require nearly the power to spin it. Think of pumping a bicycle pump when it's not actually inflating a tire - it still takes some effort to move air, but not nearly as much as when you are compressing it.

When the throttle is opened, the vacuum disappears in the intake snout, and the bypass valve closes, so all of the air entering the engine goes through the SC, which, due to it's swept volume / driven speed delivers more air than the motor can use, resulting in compression of the air in the intake manifold (boost) as more air is physically forced into the manifold than goes through the intake valves.

Spinning the SC faster (smaller pulley) will result in more air supplied to the motor at any given rpm, resulting in more pressure at any given rpm (and consequently more heat).

The boost controller concept makes use of the same bypass valve that ordinarily allows air to flow from the intake snout to the manifold.

By opening this valve under pressure, it creates in effect a massive boost leak when compressed air in the manifold is allowed to go back into the intake snout for another trip through the SC.

The resultant bleeding of pressurized air lowers the intake manifold pressure (boost), so essentially by controlling the bleedoff of this air, you can control the maximum boost pressure, but it can only be lower than the amount of boost that the pulley / SC combo will make with no air bypassed (eg, if your SC produces 9psi of boost, you can't use a boost controller to get more than 9 psi)

To open the valve under boost (as the supplied bypass valve is designed to open under pressure), you either need to have a vacuum supply handy to admit to the bypass valve (think brake booster for instance), or use a different bypass valve actuator that has a port on both sides of the diaphragm, one of which will open the valve under vacuum (which you would use just like the original one) while the other port would open the valve under boost. (Whipple sells a dual port actuator that bolts right in place of their single port one supplied with most of these kits fwiw).


- C
 
One last thing also My tuner has the boost set in stages. At start I'm 6 PSI then at 3900 Full Boost. On both mid pressure and High boost he has them set to 3900 RPM. He said he raised this because anything less is out of control. The car gets to wild. This may need to be lowered as the temps out side go up.
 
Supercharger boost controllers must do something with
measuring boost pressure, then change/vent vacuum pressure
in a way that can affect boost.
Ken, i'm not sure you have explained (recently) how
an electrical switch can react/control the vacuum line
that, I think, ultimately controls boost by venting
or not....
cheers,
--bruce
p.s. i am loving 400 whp in high altitude with your old 2.3 blower...
i am most interested in the boost controller for times when I
take 10 lbs of boost at 5,200 ft., and need to reduce that boost
at sea level, or for every part of the country in between....
 
The SC boost controller would make use of the recirculating valve that is already part of the system.....
---snip----

- C


...etc.
sorry, i missed this before. It explains it very well....
 
The tune is one tune or one set of maps. So you tune to the highest boost you want to run then you have covered everthing less than full boost. I think.
Ken
 
Ken how do you change each fuel maps for each level of HP? I understand each switch determines your boost\hp. But how do you switch between tune maps on the fly.

You don't have to switch maps for different boost levels. When the ECU sees additional boost it moves to a different area of cells on the fuel/ignition tables that have been tuned to meet the demands for that pressure reading. Like ken said when your tuner tunes the car they will tune up to the amount of boost you intend to run on the car and every value below that. the boost controller actually makes it much easier to tune on the s/c at each boost level.

If you were using different fuel lets say for low boost and high boost then maybe a second map might be needed depending on the situation. If its all on pump gas just for gear based control or personal use then one map can do it all.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top