Guys I put new motul in my car before last year's trackmasters. Since then I drove the car maybe 3K miles on the street only. But certainly did lots of hard braking the 2 days at the track. should I replace the fluid again before this year's event?
Motul question
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
- Start date
Dave
This has been debated by people who track their cars. Some say to change twice a year and others once a year. The hardcore track guys say they change before every event.
Based on what I've read and the number of events I try to do annually (3-4 events), I change my brake fluid once a year.
This has been debated by people who track their cars. Some say to change twice a year and others once a year. The hardcore track guys say they change before every event.
Based on what I've read and the number of events I try to do annually (3-4 events), I change my brake fluid once a year.
It sounds like the car has likely sat for long periods of time and as such most certainly absorbed moisture, so it will not perform to its rated spec.
Brake fluid is cheap, just do a good flush the day of the event and it will be just fine.
Yeah its sat in a garage for months. In New England winter. Thanks John.
i usually just go by color, most of the time it doesn't take too long to bleed the old fluid out if you have speedbleeder. 2 steps and if the fluid looks good with no air bubbles. I'll just keep using it.
Mutul fluid is little darker than most other fluid in the market.
Mutul fluid is little darker than most other fluid in the market.
The only tech inspection we (www.MVPTrackTime.com) have had failures on at all of our events are brake fluid, some worse then others. I'll go with John here and suggest you flush it before each event. Probably overkill, but it's inexpensive insurance.
Feff
Ski_Banker
Suspended
Related question-
Instead of using/changing ATE or Motul 600 a few times per year, could you just drop the dough on Castrol SRF and only change the fluid every few years? I know the dry temp is a little higher with Motul, but unless you think you'll be really cooking your brakes, wouldn't the "wet" temp of SRF be high enough for an occasionally HPDE?
I need to get a full fluid and ABS flush, and I have no idea when I'll be back on the track this year, if at all. My last track event was with stock fluid and that did start to boil but not overly so (and it was wet). So, I'm thinking that 520 degrees wet for SRF is probably adequate, no? I like "set it and forget it" kind of solutions whenever possible...
(courtesy of NSXtacy)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
Instead of using/changing ATE or Motul 600 a few times per year, could you just drop the dough on Castrol SRF and only change the fluid every few years? I know the dry temp is a little higher with Motul, but unless you think you'll be really cooking your brakes, wouldn't the "wet" temp of SRF be high enough for an occasionally HPDE?
I need to get a full fluid and ABS flush, and I have no idea when I'll be back on the track this year, if at all. My last track event was with stock fluid and that did start to boil but not overly so (and it was wet). So, I'm thinking that 520 degrees wet for SRF is probably adequate, no? I like "set it and forget it" kind of solutions whenever possible...
(courtesy of NSXtacy)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:392F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($16.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($16.95/0.5L 16.9 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:420F --- MOTUL RBF600 ($12.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- PROSPEED GS610 ($39.95/16 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($69.00/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
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