Master Cylinder install Tip!

Joined
8 April 2004
Messages
3,004
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
Here is the Tip - Get someone else to do it!!! lol
No really, this is a tough job for sure.
6 foot - 225 pounds and fingers like sausages does not help at all.
Here are a few tips I found:

Cut off the cotter pin and use a new one - I spent 15 minutes trying to get it out easily like any other cotter pin I know. This one does not come out easy.
This one from LarryB and was given to me too late.

Installing the bolt back in through the pedal is tough.
LarryB mentioned Vise Grip Needle Nose Pliers.
I tried that for 15 minutes, then gave up.
I could see that if I could only get the bolt up there on the tip of my finger, it would be easy. Over to the cupboard and out came the double sided tape!
Stuck the tape on my finger tip or should I say just below the tip on the fleshy part, and then attach the bolt and wham, straight in she went.

Hope this helps some out there willing to loose hours out of their life!

Trev

p.s. whats up with those crazy Japanese hose clamps with the two hooks and the little washer I kept dropping and loosing? I swear I have seen those two hooks in a ladies nose in an Japanese exotic movie. Swear!
 
No, I did not remove the seat.
Climbed in the passenger side, car is on the lift, dove head first in to the foot well of the driver side, did a twisty with a 180, kicked off my shoes cause they where in the roof liner by this time and then took a breath.

Also would suggest that a proper wrench is used for the hydroic line since those nuts are so soft.

I used a deep socket, swivel and and 18" extension or so under the dash to get off the two nutz holding the unit in place. This I did by not being in the car. Hold the socket in your right hand I think and guide it up while pushing the extension with the left. I did drop one nut on the install but found it easily on the other side of the carpet.

Oh ya, now I remember I unsnapped an electrical cable out of my way that holds one of the air bag lines. Needed a little more room for my sticky finger move, got to go back in and snap it into place. Ratz.


Please do a DIY. Then linkie this thread or just use this thread.

Thanks dude.
Trev
 
use a long socket and crazy wobble extentions is the easiest way to get the MC off.

remove all the hard and soft line from the front first.

small fingers do help.
 
Trev,

You had trouble due to those massive hands you have:eek:.

Us little guys just crawl up in there and "get her done":biggrin:.

C-speed, I will try the magnet idea and see if it helps me. I actually can do this pretty easily, but I have done it 20+ times:).

Regards,
LarryB
 
C-speed, I will try the magnet idea and see if it helps me. I actually can do this pretty easily, but I have done it 20+ times:).

Regards,
LarryB

Hehe, ya having little hands does help... but its nice with the magnet because then you can SEE the hole and use your free hand to line up the hole in the bracket with the hole in the pedal. Getting the cotter pin back in is another story hehe.

Pulling it out is actually quite easy as well, just use your fingers to straighten out the old cotter pin as best you can, and then use a 90deg pick and insert it into the hole on the one end of the cotter pin and pull really hard.
 
Yah, that was my thoughts on the cotter pin, but it ended in disaster and took up a lot of my time and patience which left me in a pissed off mood, that is why I suggest to cut it and replace it.

I have one of those nice magnet swivel telescopic things but never thought about using it, the sticky finger worked nice to though.

Trev
 
Yah, that was my thoughts on the cotter pin, but it ended in disaster and took up a lot of my time and patience which left me in a pissed off mood, that is why I suggest to cut it and replace it.

I have one of those nice magnet swivel telescopic things but never thought about using it, the sticky finger worked nice to though.

Trev

dont need to put that cotter pin in. its a PITA :biggrin:

thats a jk. :wink:
 
Another tip just in.
Undo the adjusting run and tighten it up yourself before you install the new unit.
I went to adjust my clutch at lunch and can not budge the 12mm nut, plus its a tight spot.
I even took one of my closed box end wrenches and cut out a slot in it and still cant make it stick or turn. I'm going to have to go in upside down and inside out to take a good look. Good thing I dont have hair to get in the way.
Trev
 
Another tip just in.
Undo the adjusting run and tighten it up yourself before you install the new unit.
I went to adjust my clutch at lunch and can not budge the 12mm nut, plus its a tight spot.
I even took one of my closed box end wrenches and cut out a slot in it and still cant make it stick or turn. I'm going to have to go in upside down and inside out to take a good look. Good thing I dont have hair to get in the way.
Trev

You have only completed half the mod on the wrench. You now need to cut it so it is about 5" long and it will work. Been there, done that;).

Regards,
LarryB
 
Good thing craftsman has a full warranty on their wrenches......!
Hey, we need to start a new thread......."Special Tools for Nsx Tough Jobs!"
One tool per post and must include a picture and description of tool and job.
Trev
 
I aviation there are endless "field expedient" tools manufactured by the guys that have to get the job done when Sears, Snap-On, etc, etc... aren't there, that make some impossible jobs happen.
I'm saying they're probably many just like that for the NSX and the mention of a tool thread is a great idea.
I'd be glad to contribute.

Cheers
nigel
 
Do you really need to do all this? I just replaced my brake master cylinder and didn't mess with anything inside the car. Reused all settings from previous unit - just slipped the old piston right into the new cylinder.
Am I wrong here?
 
Do you really need to do all this? I just replaced my brake master cylinder and didn't mess with anything inside the car. Reused all settings from previous unit - just slipped the old piston right into the new cylinder.
Am I wrong here?

If you're just replacing the MC, then yes, you don't have to mess with anything under the dash. If you're changing the brake booster or the clutch master, then you have to break you neck under the dash messing with the cotter pin, argh!
 
I aviation there are endless "field expedient" tools manufactured by the guys that have to get the job done when Sears, Snap-On, etc, etc... aren't there, that make some impossible jobs happen.
I'm saying they're probably many just like that for the NSX and the mention of a tool thread is a great idea.
I'd be glad to contribute.

Cheers
nigel

Did ya ever notice at most parts stores they will have the 'Bucket-o-Wrenches' or screwdrivers for sale - cheap sitting right on the counter ?

Now you know what they are there for - been there - done that , many , many times.
 
I just joined the NSX Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement PITA club over the weekend.

Read this thread before I started.

Some good tips here that helped.

Thanks,

Drew Altemara
 
Thanks for bumping an old thread Drew. I just ordered a new Clutch Master and will be doing it next month. Hopefully it'll go smoothly after reading all this. Cheers!
 
If I could offer any advice:

Use a good set of flair wrenches to remove the hard piping to the master. The nut is made out of relatively soft metal.

I removed the cruise control box for better access.

Putting the pin that holds the clutch pedal to the master throw rod was the most difficult part for me.

You swear it can't be done but after several tries titdoes go in. I did not use it but the double sided tape idea seems like a good one.

This is not real difficult just a PITA and time consuming.

Good luck.

Drew Altemara
 
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