Main Relay Repair

[quack]

NSXPrime saved me a decent repair/diag bill and it took five minutes of work. I searched prime and found the fix in minutes. Just some pics to share for archived searches on main relay repair.

Symptoms:
TCS light intermittent
PGM FI Code.
during long weekend drive car did momentary fuel cut (1/2 sec) twice.
Today car randomly shutoff clean while on highway!!

Action:
Removed old relay and examined the components, they look great and the PCB is super thick single layered and simple. The leads had lifted off the board partially as seen in pic. I took a solder Iron and solder then re did problem joints. Yay! Cookies for everyone on prime.

 

[slamstrom]

This is good to add to my reference folder. Thanks for the post.

 

[angus]

HEY! - I think LarryB ate my cookie ... - uhh - NEVERMIND...

 

[NSXDOC]

where is the main relay?

 

[nsxtasy]

where is the main relay?

In the passenger compartment, gently lift the bolster that is the top four inches of the rear wall, just below the inside rear window. You'll see it.

 

[nis350]

In the passenger compartment, gently lift the bolster that is the top four inches of the rear wall, just below the inside rear window. You'll see it.

How difficult is it to remove the rear panels? There are few pieces....

 

[nsxtasy]

How difficult is it to remove the rear panels?

You only need to remove the one panel, the top bolster, as described above. There are no screws; you just pry it up and away, starting from the bottom edge. IIRC there are one or two screws holding down the relay, and the connector attaches from the bottom. You have to contort your hands to disconnect it, and smaller hands probably make this easier, but you really don't need to remove any other panels besides the top bolster.

When I asked our resident electrician about re-soldering the main relay vs just buying a new one, he mentioned that it can be re-soldered easily but, given the relatively low price ($50-60) of the part, it's often easier and more convenient (and not all that much more expensive) to just buy a new one instead.

 

[enkrypt3d]

You only need to remove the one panel, the top bolster, as described above. There are no screws; you just pry it up and away, starting from the bottom edge. IIRC there are one or two screws holding down the relay, and the connector attaches from the bottom. You have to contort your hands to disconnect it, and smaller hands probably make this easier, but you really don't need to remove any other panels besides the top bolster.

When I asked our resident electrician about re-soldering the main relay vs just buying a new one, he mentioned that it can be re-soldered easily but, given the relatively low price ($50-60) of the part, it's often easier and more convenient (and not all that much more expensive) to just buy a new one instead.

Anyone have the part # for the main relay for a 95? My idling issue is still there even after the timing belt change and cleaning the throttle body... sigh thanks

 

[NSX GT]

Good Job Travis. Now I know where to bring my relay to. Well do a Friday night relay repair workshop. :biggrin:

 

[Tom239]

Anyone have the part # for the main relay for a 95? My idling issue is still there even after the timing belt change and cleaning the throttle body... sigh thanks

39400-SL0-A01