Lubricate window track with what kind of lube?

Joined
16 January 2004
Messages
627
Location
WashDC - Chantilly, VA
Last week I got some silicon lubricant and sprayed it down the track and it did help a little but not significantly.

Anyways I am taking both door panels out to replace my bose amps so at the same time I can lube everything!!!

and was wondering if anybody know what is the best kind of lubricant to make the windows go faster.

thanks in advance.
 
The FAQ says to use high-temp urea grease, which is available from Honda (if not necessarily at your local auto parts and lubricants store). Apparently it is a little expensive, ~$11.

nsxparts.com says he used a can of spray lithium grease.

I'm doing mine this weekend. I'll probably look for something at a local store just for convenience.
 
CokerRat said:
The FAQ says to use high-temp urea grease, which is available from Honda (if not necessarily at your local auto parts and lubricants store). Apparently it is a little expensive, ~$11.

That is what I got to do it. Worked well, but is was not cheap.. and you use so little..
 
I got a similiar problem where the windows tend to roll up very slow. I figure I need to lubricate both sides or the replace the window motor. Out of curiousity, when your windows rolled up slowly did lubricating them help alot? Or is this sort of a preventative measure against window motors failing? Thanks.

Sam
 
I just noticed that my window (at least on my driver's side) is going up at a turtle's pace. What should I do with this? New regulators were put in a couple years ago. I just want to speed it up like Ennesssex does.
 
Also, anyone have a drawing out there of where the clips may be located to pop off the panel without messing them up and having to replace them? This of course if it is held on with a clip based system. I just hate trying to get into door systems without breaking something in the process.
 
You might try this trick to determine the probable cause of slow window lifts. "Help" the window up for a few inches by gently pulling up as you switch on the power. If the window moves faster, it generally indicates a tired motor. If the window does not move any faster, it points toward the need for lubrication in the mechanism.

Regarding getting the door panel off- it is not a simple task, but very do-able. The Prime DYI section spells out the unique-to-the-NSX procedure in detail.
 
Lubricant & slow closing

I just had this done yesterday---I already knew that the Honda Super High Temp Urea grease is what was needed for the job...My driver's door window started needing help to go up--I thought maybe I was going to need the Dali Window Thingies as I have a 93 which was before the newer window regulators.

BUT NO---my car already had the updated regulators and I just had the window slide adjusted and greased--Basch Acura here in Phx uses the same grease--but they used mine--it only takes a little and the container only holds 1.75 oz to begin with but I would not use anything else---what if u use something else and it only works momentarily--then u gotta take those panels off again (and I don't want to hear from the people who can do it in less than 30 minutes without tearing the door seal)
 
Ennesssex said:
so I gotta ask....did your window roll up substantially faster after the refill of the grease?

My driver's window was popping and a bit slow when i rolled it up, so I greased it up. All the popping went away, but still seems slow.
 
slow windows

about a year ago I went so far as to take out the slide rails completely, as they were COVERED in dry grease and gunk. I strongly recommend a very thorough cleaning before you regrease if you want to cure the slow window syndrome. It made a huge difference on my car.

Not a fun job at all, given all the adjustments needed and stuff you have to remove, but once it's done, it's done. BTW, I used bearing grease on mine, no problems as of yet. I figure if ball bearings don't stress with this grease, a nylon block in an aluminum rail should be just fine. :D

Don in Germany
 
I did mine on Sunday, both replacing the plastic clip with a Dali window fixit thingy and lubing everything. The clip replacement was a bitch, since I had the window just a little too far down. I didn't realize that I couldn't get the lower jaw of the multigrips squarely onto the bottom side of the fixit thingy until AFTER I had destroyed the clip. Thus the cable was being pulled slightly off-center of the slot and couldn't be pushed in. The solution came in the form of using a pair of vise grips to pinch the cable in place after the multigrips had pulled it all together. It made it so that I could work the cable end around and position as I needed to on the tools to get it in. I was on the verge of giving up when it finally went in! Anyway hopefully this might help someone who has into the same lack of foresight. :o

I used lithium grease instead of the urea grease. The tubes from all manufacturers say it is suitable for automotive window regulators. Not sure why Honda specs urea grease but my guess is that it withstands higher extreme temperatures and not "melt" away. A black car door in Arizona in a heat wave could get pretty hot inside the door... but my red car in Calgary would be pretty unlikely to every see anywhere near that kind of heat. If I am wrong I will be back in there earlier than I expect but it shouldn't hurt the regulator.

Before I applied the grease, I soaked a couple rags with Simple Green (degreaser) and wiped all the gunk out I could reach (cable, spool, and rear-edge rail...couldn't reach the front one). There was a lot of blackish greasy crud in there -- so it is definitely important to get that out if you want the fresh grease to work.
 
For the DIY part of this are you guys following the speaker/amp removal instructions here on prime in the DIY section?

I've got my grease, just need time to get to it. Also, how long did it take any of you doing it your first time?
 
dnyhof, nope, no need to remove the speaker/amp unless you want to access the front window rail. Pulling back the liner back halfway, you expose an access hole for everything else. You do have to reach inside to get at the rear window rail.

How long.... I am embarrased to say it took me 6 hours from start to finish. But that included preparation and a pile of time to go and buy a pair of multigrips, rent an angle grinder, go home and grind the slots into the tool, return the grinder, go home, do more work, then later go out to a couple of different places looking for material to reattach the liner to the door. On that last note, the DIY says to use puckey but nobody at the local hardware stores had anything like it (I took some to show them). I ended up using a roll-up strip of outdoor weatherproofing stuff, similar to silly putty. It's not as gummy as the OEM stuff, but it appears to have done the job just fine. Time will tell if it holds.

It appears my passenger side door had already been opened up at some point as the liner was poorly reattached and ripped in places. The original owner mentioned he had problems with the keyless entry & alarm so that may have been why. There was gooey grease all over one of the electrical connectors and I spent some time trying to figure out why that was and cleaning it up.

The passenger side took me so long that my helper had to take off (never to be seen again for an NSX DIY job to be sure! ha ha), so I still need to do the drivers' door. I am quite sure I can do it in 1.5 hrs max, less if I can get the cables into the the fixit-thingy without many re-attempts. The door was actually very easy to disassemble thanks to a few other threads here about needing brute force to pop the door panel straight up and out (ie over the door lock stem). One key piece of advice (thanks Larry B): the chrome strip does not come out, so you have to pull up and towards you to get the thing off. Pop the back end out first.

Good luck!
 
This sounds like there's more to it than I hoped....
Someone needs to write up a good DIY with pics for us less skilled. :(
 
dynof,

I don't know about you but I'm starting to feel a little bit hesitant about trying to take my door apart and grease it. I called applied motorsports and they quoted me 135 for regreasing one door. Basically they charge 2 hours of labor for each side.

I just realized you don't live in southern california so I guess this doesn't help. good luck anyways!
 
I feel better already about using shop

to do my work--if u check out my post in Professional Experience, I indicated why I did not want to R&R my door panels, do the Dali Window Thingies (turned out I didn't need them as I had the updated regulators). I feel so much better now about the cost as I had a lot more done than just clean the rails and regrease--had the panel parts removed and put on tan panels and had all speakers R&R'd including the sub--also had a screw drilled out and the panels under the steering wheel reinstalled ( I had removed)---I was at the shop for 5 hours and the mechanic took an hour for lunch and had everything done including an oil change.....ALSO note that apparently the center door hinge pin has to be removed and reinstalled in order to get the door seal on properly--need some kind of special tool to get the pin lined up right---My passenger door seal had a rip--that seal cost me 132 or so including tax....
 
Re: I feel better already about using shop

jrehner said:
My passenger door seal had a rip--that seal cost me 132 or so including tax....
I used duct tape. I'm not exactly a high-rent kinda guy but it is inside the door, so it's my dirtly little secret. ;)

Ennessex, seriously, the job wasn't that bad in retrospect. Taking the door apart was easy. Just make darn sure you can get the multigrips around the fixit-thingy squarely and bob's your uncle.

nsxexotic, what do you mean by "the track is facing out"? If you're talking about the guide rails, they are pressing against the outer edges of the window so the surface to be lubed faces the middle of the door. The rear rail is easy to access if you reach your arm inside the access hole but the front is blocked by other stuff.
 
Ok, when I get closer to getting around to this I'll open up this can of worms again for discussion. I just hate going to a dealer and paying $85 and hour for something I feel I can do myself with a little prep. Plus it makes me feel better that I know the car that much more and I'm not helpless on "little issues" such as this.
 
doors & windows

Really, it's not that bad... It's not bad at ALL if you've ever taken off any door panel and peeked inside. Just grab the DIY instructions on door panel/speaker removal and have at it slowly. No need to actually remove the speaker, unless your plastic is all hosed up. (Like CokeRat I used a sheet of heavy plastic and duct tape to repair mine.)

Once you get inside, it's pretty clear what needs to be done and how to go about it. I don't recommend removing the rails to clean them (I did) because the adjustments afterwards can be a pain. Simply degrease and clean as best you can, wipe them down, and regrease. (Not silicone spray, use the right grease.) Test, retest, and close back up. No way I'd pay >$100 per door to do that when I can learn about the car, get my hands dirty and have a beer or two, as well as the satisfaction of having done it myself...

Don
 
Back
Top