List of things to replace while engine is out? And where to buy?

e9coupe

e9coupe

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Location
Roseville, CA
MY1991.

I've searched around and found a list of "23 hoses" to replace while I have my engine out. It's an old list but assume it wouldn't change! I guess my question is more about where the best place is to buy them. Do you guys have a favorite? I'm assuming OEM is best? The drive train is basically stock and I don't really want different colored (aftermarket) hoses.

Any help is appreciated.

Dan
 
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e9coupe said:
MY1991.

I've searched around and found a list of "23 hoses" to replace while I have my engine out. It's an old list but assume it wouldn't change! I guess my question is more about where the best place is to buy them. Do you guys have a favorite? I'm assuming OEM is best? The drive train is basically stock and I don't really want different colored (aftermarket) hoses.

Any help is appreciated.

Dan
Click to expand...
MITA or SOS. Or you can build your own kit on Amayama.
 
If you shop at Amayama, you cannot get a compete set of hoses because they do not sell the left hand drive specific hoses. You can purchase most of the hoses from Amayama and order the two or three LHD hoses from an Acura North American on-line vendor or let SOS or MITA do all that for you.
 
EDIT: This thread started out asking about which hoses to replace but I realized I need to figure out everything that needs to be replaced. I already have a clutch, timing belt and water pump. Ordering a set of hoses, so what else should I replace? Cam seals? OEM is fine? Pan gasket. Other suggestions?

I dropped the subframe last night so things are getting serious!
 
For a 1991, you probably want to upgrade the lost motion assemblies to the later design if this has not already been done. Clean and inspect the VTEC solenoids and checking / cleaning the EGR plumbing and EGR valve operation would be a good idea if the car needs to go for emission compliance testing
 
Old Guy said:
For a 1991, you probably want to upgrade the lost motion assemblies to the later design if this has not already been done. Clean and inspect the VTEC solenoids and checking / cleaning the EGR plumbing and EGR valve operation would be a good idea if the car needs to go for emission compliance testing
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll have to familiarize myself with the LMA. I'd seen that term used before but never knew what it was.

EDIT: Is 14820-PCB-305 the correct p/n for the updated setup?
 
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I have a later model NSX with the later design so I have not had to deal with this. I don't know whether the later model LMA assembly is backward compatible with the early design. Maybe somebody else can advise. However, SOS offers a kit to replace the LMAs on an early engine with LMAs that are the same design as the later Honda LMAs.

www.scienceofspeed.com

ScienceofSpeed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) Kit - NSX, 1991-99

ScienceofSpeed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) Kit - NSX, 1991-99 The lost motion assembly (LMA) is a spring device that puts pre-load on the center VTEC rocker when it is the unlocked position (when the engine is not in VTEC mode). The early NSX (1991-99) LMA
www.scienceofspeed.com www.scienceofspeed.com
 
Old Guy said:
I have a later model NSX with the later design so I have not had to deal with this. I don't know whether the later model LMA assembly is backward compatible with the early design. Maybe somebody else can advise. However, SOS offers a kit to replace the LMAs on an early engine with LMAs that are the same design as the later Honda LMAs.

www.scienceofspeed.com

ScienceofSpeed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) Kit - NSX, 1991-99

ScienceofSpeed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) Kit - NSX, 1991-99 The lost motion assembly (LMA) is a spring device that puts pre-load on the center VTEC rocker when it is the unlocked position (when the engine is not in VTEC mode). The early NSX (1991-99) LMA
www.scienceofspeed.com www.scienceofspeed.com
Click to expand...
From what I've read the new LMA design is not backward compatible and I believe Honda ended up making an upgrade kit for the early motors. SOS probably came out with theirs before Honda jumped in but I think the SOS design is a little different, not sure. I'll keep searching. Thanks for the reply.
 
It looks like you might be correct. The parts manual for up to 1999 lists two LMAs, 14820 PR7 A12 (now unavailable ) and 14820 PCB 305. 14820 PCB 305 is definitely the later spring style.
www.amayama.com

Honda 14820-PCB-305 (14820PCB305) SPRING

Honda 14820-PCB-305 (14820PCB305) SPRING. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.
www.amayama.com www.amayama.com

This is a case where you definitely want to purchase the OEM part from Amayama. 12 of them will be less than $100 US$ which is well below the cost from any North American supplier. Put together a list of all the miscellaneous bits you need when you place an order. I needed a couple of plastic clips that I could only get from Amayama (back ordered in North America). The base shipping charge was high, effectively turning a $3 clip into a $28 dollar clip so I added a bunch of other consumables that I needed which effectively shipped for free because I was still below the weight and size for the base package. You don't want to be making multiple separate low value purchases from Amayama because of the shipping costs.
 
You might consider adding a shield for the damper pulley or even a bulletproof pulley.

Cedar Ridge Fabrication Crankshaft Damper Pulley Shield (lightweight version) - NSX, 1991-05 - External Engine Components - Engine Products - NSX, 1991-05

The Cedar Ridge Crankshaft Damper Pulley Shield is installed behind the crankshaft pulley as an added layer of protection between the factory crankshaft damper pulley and the timing belt. The factory crankshaft damper pulley is composed of two steel halve
www.scienceofspeed.com www.scienceofspeed.com

ATI Super Damper Pulley - NSX, 1991-05 - External Engine Components - Engine Products - NSX, 1991-05

<p>The factory harmonic damper / crankshaft pulley is composed of an inner and outer steel shell bonded with an elastomer bushing. With age, the factory crankshaft pulley can fail. This process is greatly exasperated by high performance applications, incl
www.scienceofspeed.com www.scienceofspeed.com

Also might consider adding a baffle to the oil pan.

ScienceofSpeed Stainless Steel Oil Pan Baffle - NSX, 1991-05 - External Engine Components - Engine Products - NSX, 1991-05

<p>Oil starvation is the number one cause of engine damage that we see for the NSX. During high speed cornering, braking, and acceleration experienced under high performance driving, oil sloshes away from the oil pick up point in the oil pan which may cau
www.scienceofspeed.com www.scienceofspeed.com
 
14820-PCB-305 is the correct number and it is backward compatible. Here they are in my C30A.

20210809_211550.jpg20210811_204811.jpg

The SOS kit used S2000 LMAs with a spacer. I used those in my 91 and they also work just fine.
 
I know that Red Line makes an assembly lube / grease which just happens to be red. There are probably others.
 
e9coupe said:
When you guys change the clutch do you do it while the engine/trans is still attached to the subframe? Seems like it'd be a lot easier separated.
Click to expand...
Typically, you do the clutch with the engine still in the car. If the subframe is already out, you're right that it is much easier with the engine separate. But, it's still doable with it in the subframe.
 
Okay, this is kind of a PITA! Now I realize why most of the threads on removing the transmission are with it in the car. Once you drop the transaxle, removing the transmission is a pain. Or at least it was for me. I'm tempted to put the engine on a stand now and maybe build a cradle for the engine when I put the trans back on. With mounts for the engine/trans removed and one of the brackets to lift with is now not usable since the trans is removed makes it a challenge.

Any advice? I have a plan, I'm just wondering if I'm missing something obvious.
 
If the whole subframe assembly is out of the car then you'll need to remove the engine/trans from the subframe to split them apart. Building a cradle to hold the engine while installing/removing the transmission makes it 100x easier. I just used some chunks of 2x12 planks I had laying around to support the engine on the oil pan rails.

You have a few options for lifting the rear side of the motor with the transmission removed. I usually try to use one of the transmission mount bolt holes.
 
MotorMouth93 said:
If the whole subframe assembly is out of the car then you'll need to remove the engine/trans from the subframe to split them apart. Building a cradle to hold the engine while installing/removing the transmission makes it 100x easier. I just used some chunks of 2x12 planks I had laying around to support the engine on the oil pan rails.

You have a few options for lifting the rear side of the motor with the transmission removed. I usually try to use one of the transmission mount bolt holes.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I was going to make a box about the oil pan like you said. The motor has some decent oil leaks so while it's out I'll put it on a stand and deal with everything. I was planning on attaching the engine stand collar to the motor and lifting it with that. One good thing is, I'm not in a hurry. 8-)
 
Here's the box I made. This made re-attaching the trans really easy. Then I could lower the whole transaxle back into the subframe.

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1644555217544_6897764527166482327.jpeg20220212_144235.jpg
 
Wow, taking off the crank bolt was a bitch! Especially on an engine stand. The electric impact that took the axle nuts right off did nothing, and a long breaker bar with a pipe extension did nothing, although I was also trying to hold the engine in place at the same time. It took two guys holding the engine and a young very strong guy to break it loose. At this point, all the work I'm getting ready to do seems like the easy part.
 
I do recall seeing a photo of a rather interesting arrangement for crank bolt removal with the engine in the car. About 12" of 3/4" extension resting on an axle stand to clear the fender and then a 3/4" breaker bar with about 6 ' of pipe extension and you needed to stand on a small step ladder to 'pre load' the breaker bar.

I remember working with my son on his RSX removing the crank bolt. The first bang was when the 1/2" extension on the breaker bar turned into a corkscrew. After getting a 3/4" drive breaker bar and extension the real big bang occurred when the crank bolt let go. I was absolutely sure that we must have broken something.
 

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