Life of brake pads

[CDub]

Just a little history here.

The first 35 street miles, my front brakes still had 70% pad material left. I wanted to change to a slotted and drilled (no flame please) for looks and a set of Axxis Ultimate.

Shortly after that, I started attending track events. The pads have 13k miles. Out of that, around 1200 of them are track miles. This weekend, I noticed that the front pads are down to around 1/20".

Is it normal?

Side notes:
1> Axxis Ultimates work well in light track condition.
2> They dust badly.
3> I experienced no warping or cracks on my Bradi slotted and drilled rotors.

I did a search to try to determine on what kind of pad to use next and came up with Carbotech Bobcats. Any pads suggestions for a light track duty car? Less dust is preferred.

 

[Osiris_x11]

best street/track multi-purpose pad for NSX...

Check-out COBALT Friction:

Cobalt Friction GT-Sport

Cobalt GT-Sport is a class-winning Pro Solo2 Autocross compound exhibiting very good cold performance, strong/solid initial bite, linear pedal feel with excellent modulation, and high fade resistance. Along with its excellent performance, the GT-Sport compound is rotor friendly and has very good wear rates over a broad operating temperature range. For the serious autocross driver, the GT-Sport will let you take back the time under braking! Also suitable for spirited street driving (i.e. canyon and mountain drives, etc.) and novice to intermediate level HPDE events.

CRB.GTS.D503 $92.75 (front)
CRB.VR.D504 $95.00 (rear)

http://www.cobaltfriction.com/


Nota Bena: As per brembo's recommendation, only slotted brake-discs/rotors should be used for the track. Cross-drilled discs/rotors should be reserved for street use.

 

[NSX 3.0]

Just a little history here.

The first 35 street miles, my front brakes still had 70% pad material left. I wanted to change to a slotted and drilled (no frame please) for looks and a set of Axxis Ultimate.

Shortly after that, I started attending track events. The pads have 13k miles. Out of that, around 1200 of them are track miles. This weekend, I noticed that the front pads are down to around 1/20".

Is it normal?

Side notes:
1> Axxis Ultimates work well in light track condition.
2> They dust badly.
3> I experienced no warping or cracks on my Bradi slotted and drilled rotors.

I did a search to try to determine on what kind of pad to use next and came up with Carbotech Bobcats. Any pads suggestions for a light track duty car? Less dust is preferred.

Get the Hawk HPS less dust much better then stock.

http://www.raceshopper.com/hawk_brake_compounds.shtml

 

[robfenn]

to a slotted and drilled (no frame please) for looks and a set of Axxis Ultimate.

Sorry, can't resist. If you want to show off to people who know about cars then they will know drilled and grooved discs are pointless.

If you plan to do more track work, you will wreck the discs anyway as they are inherently weak.

-Rob

 

[nsxtasy]

Shortly after that, I started attending track events. The pads have 13k miles. Out of that, around 1200 of them are track miles. This weekend, I noticed that the front pads are down to around 1/20".

Is it normal?

No. That's more miles than normal.

I've used a wide variety of aftermarket brake pads as well as the stock ones: Cobalt Friction GT Sport, RM Racing/Hawk HP+, Carbotech Panther Plus, Porterfield R4S, etc. Most of them have been "street/track pads", designed to be used on the street as well as at the track (but not "track pads", designed only for the track). And I've kept track (pun intended) of all my miles, total miles as well as track miles. Track miles, of course, is the big determinant of brake pad life on a track-driven car.

My NSX has 10,281 actual track miles. I have changed my front pads 22 times, and my rear pads 13 times (but they're overdue, so call it 14). That means I've gotten an average of 467 track miles per front set, and 734 track miles per rear set.

Any pads suggestions for a light track duty car? Less dust is preferred.

I've tried most of the pads on the market. I really, really like the Cobalt GT Sport pads that Osiris also mentioned. They have a nice bite to them, and they stand up well to the heat of track use. Yet they don't squeal on the street (hardly ever, anyway). They dust more than some, less than others; I consider brake dust an inherent part of track driving. It washes off easily if you do it when you get home. (If you're really looking for low dust, though, then the stock pads might be a better choice.)

If you want to show off to people who know about cars then they will know drilled and grooved discs are pointless.

If you plan to do more track work, you will wreck the discs anyway as they are inherently weak.

Not based on my experience. I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid faced rotors (and I've kept track of their track miles, too - 11 changes of front rotors). I have found absolutely no difference in the lifespan of rotors between one kind and another.

 

[Nimbus]

I recommend the Cobalt GT Sport pads as well.

 

[CDub]

I think the choice of pads is clear. I was actually thinking about the Cobalt, but typed Carbotech on my original post.

One more question: Do you recommend mixing Axxis Ultimate on the backs and just replacing the fronts with Cobalt GT Sport?

Robfenn,
See, I kind of asked for it since I only asked people not to "Frame" me. :redface: I should learn how to spell. To respond to your post, if I knew what I know now, 3 years ago, I would have gone with a set of Stoptech Aero rotors. Back then, I was just looking for cooler looking rotors. A few months after the install, the Brembo guy told us at the NSXPO seminar that the worst thing to do is to slot and drill the rotors. I felt like laying low for the rest of the event.

Ken, I was going pretty easy on the brakes on my first few events. I'll bet my next set of pads won't be as lucky. :wink:

Nimbus, how come I don't see your name on the Pahrump track event list? They only have one spot left.

Guys, thanks again for your suggestions and comments! Off to purchase my Cobalt pads, steel braided brake lines, Aluminum air deflectors and Motul 600. Any suggestions?

 

[ak]

I think the choice of pads is clear. I was actually thinking about the Cobalt, but typed Carbotech on my original post.

One more question: Do you recommend mixing Axxis Ultimate on the backs and just replacing the fronts with Cobalt GT Sport?

Cobalt did not make GT sport for the rear in the beginning, so Andie used to recommend using Axxis in the rear and GT sport in the front. I run a set like that without any problem, although I can't remember what kind of Axis rear pads they were. So when you call to order your cobalt, ask Andie about it.

-ak

 

[nsxtasy]

Do you recommend mixing Axxis Ultimate on the backs and just replacing the fronts with Cobalt GT Sport?

If you already have the Axxis Ultimates on the rear, then sure, use 'em up along with the GT Sports on the front. If you're asking for suggestions on what to buy to use next, then I would suggest getting the GT Sports to match the fronts.

Guys, thanks again for your suggestions and comments! Off to purchase my Cobalt pads, steel braided brake lines, Aluminum air deflectors and Motul 600. Any suggestions?

Sounds good!

 

[AU_NSX]

I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid faced rotors (and I've kept track of their track miles, too - 11 changes of front rotors). I have found absolutely no difference in the lifespan of rotors between one kind and another.

Wow that is interesting, I had heard that "cross-drilled" didn't last as long, and that solid or slotted were better for the track because the holes in the cross-drilled rotors helped initiate cracks...

 

[nsxtasy]

Wow that is interesting, I had heard that "cross-drilled" didn't last as long, and that solid or slotted were better for the track because the holes in the cross-drilled rotors helped initiate cracks...

I've heard people say that too, but it always seems to be based on speculation rather than actual experience.

When cross-drilled rotors crack, the cracks DO form around the drill holes, which may also give people the impression that they are more likely to crack. But, as mentioned previously, I have used (and cracked) all the various kinds of rotors, and the cracks haven't formed any quicker in the cross-drilled rotors than in slotted or solid-faced ones.

The one type of rotors that HAS seemed to last longer is two-piece rotors, which use hardware that allows the outer "ring" to expand when it gets hot, with a somewhat flexible connection to the inner "hat".

 

[Nimbus]

Nimbus, how come I don't see your name on the Pahrump track event list? They only have one spot left.

It turns out Speedventures is also having an event at Pahrump the weekend before (4-22/23) Dali's. I'm currently leading in the S2000 Challenge Series for stock class so I can't miss it. I would love to run with you guys but it's too much for me in going to Pahrump on back to back weeks.