My guess is that the brake-in is complete. Typically more performance oriented pads function best at a somewhat high temperature than is usually achieved with street driving. So, often times, performance pads don't have a great bite or braking ability when cold i.e. street driving. This is the major disadvantage of more performance oriented pads. My guess is that if you heat the pads up by aggressive braking they will be fantastic. If they are not, repeat the bedding proceedure.D'Ecosse said:So - is my brake-in complete?
Can I expect them to get better?
Perhaps still some bed-in between new rotors & pads to get the full effect?
Do I need to repeat the break-in process, maybe allowing more time/cooling between each event?
Should I go back to stock OEM pads (which still had a lot of material left)?
The GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction is my personal pad of choice these days, on both my cars, for both street and track use.vtecNSX1 said:I just put on some cobalt gt sport pads and cross drilled rotors and I couldnt be happier. If anybody is getting new pads get the cobalt gt sports you wont be disappointed.
Not in my experience. I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors, and all lasted about the same number of miles (including track miles) before cracking. Yes, the cracks in the cross-drilled rotors formed around the holes, so one might incorrectly assume that the holes caused the cracking, but keeping track of the actual miles before they cracked showed that they didn't crack any sooner than any other kind.freelance201 said:you could be disappointed with the cross drilled rotors though, they will definitely crack faster then slotted or plain rotors..
Ken - How do the GT Sport compare to the Panther Plus on generating brake dust?nsxtasy said:The GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction is my personal pad of choice these days, on both my cars, for both street and track use.
Yup.Larry Bastanza said:They both dust ALOT
freelance201 said:you could be disappointed with the cross drilled rotors though, they will definitely crack faster then slotted or plain rotors..
but I do have to admit that cross drilled look really cool!
I have not found that to be the case. I've heard people claim that the slots (or holes) "shave off" extra pad material, but the fact is that this doesn't occur because the surface of the rotor is still flat (hopefully ). I have not experienced any difference in brake pad life (measured by number of track miles) resulting from the various types of brake rotor.Osiris_x11 said:Using drilled/slotted rotors cause premature or rapid brake-pad breakdown, thus needing more often replacement
I really don't think it's a problem. It might be a problem if we were discussing pads whose characteristics were vastly different - race pads with street/track pads, or street/track pads with generic pads from the auto parts store. But the OEM pads (assuming we're talking NSX OEM pads, rather than the less-aggressive OEM Legend pads which are the same size/shape and will fit) are actually fairly aggressive pads, pretty similar (if not quite as aggressive) to the street/track pads we're talking about here. I've mixed them with no problems.Osiris_x11 said:I know the NSX brakes have a significant bias regarding brake effort between the front & rear, the front exerting majority of the effort. Therefore, using aftermarket brake-pads on the front and OEM pads on the rear (ie. "mixing" of pads) is something not advised as in the case of mixing front-rear tire brands
True of many rotors. However, some rotors are actually cast with the holes and/or slots, rather than having them drilled/ground afterwards.Osiris_x11 said:The majority of drilled/slotted aftermarket rotors aren't engineered to be modified (drilled or slotted); they are merely 'blanks' manufactured by various outfitters. An outside party then modifies them, adding the drill holes & slotted grooves.