PonyBoy, you've confused me. You said you cleaned the terminals, but then said you were going to check the connections from the battery tonight. What terminals were you cleaning? What do you mean now, saying you will check the connections from the battery? Your first task should have been to remove the battery cables from the battery. Then with a battery post & clamp cleaning tool ($2 item at any automotive store), you remove the oxidized lead from both posts and clamps by spinning the tool in circles. Its like a little wire wheel that goes over posts and into the clamps. Then when you put the cables back on and tighten them down, you have insured that any excess reisitance in this contact has been eliminated. This is the one point on your car where you have the maximum current flow, and any resistance here will cause large voltage drops under the high current demand of a starter motor. If this doesn't solve your problem and you still large voltage drops at the battery when cranking (or attempting to crank), then more than likely, the internal resistance in the battery has become high and you need a new battery. If the voltage stays fairly high (it will drop from 12 down to 9 or 10 on a good battery while cranking), but the engine doesn't want to crank, then either the contact resistance in your solenoid is high or your starter motor is failing.
Fritz
All of the above does assume you have put a good charge on the battery through either driving with a good alternator, or connecting a battery charger to the car overnight.