Installing KW variant 3 suspension

[sparky]

Installing new KW3 shock/spring units in rear end and finding the mixture of OEM and KW3 parts according to instructions (+ my interpretations) results in the shock sticking out of top too much. Something is not right - see the pictures attached.

I have included the OEM spacer tube (#8 in the exploded parts diagram) even though the KW3 instructions don't mention this. I could leave it out but that seems wrong, and shock rod would still stick out at top

Wondering what did when they installed their KW3's ?

 

[junior40er]

I wish I would of tooken pics of mine since I just did my V3's lasy month. There is a member here who just did his also. He goes by mexiricer. Maybe he took pics. The KW V3's DO come with basic instructions on what OEM parts to use and are very clear. Try taking a look at it again.

 

[junior40er]

What is wrong with the first pics is that that black tube goes inside the rubber before it. Before that rubber piece should be a metal plate.

The only OEM parts you use with these coilovers is the top hat (with inside rubber removed and use their foam instead) and the metal bump stop ring (gold one). and rubber assembly that goes inside top hat.

 

[sparky]

I read all the instructions carefully before I posted. They do not mention the OEM metal tube (item #8). That's one issue, the other is excess threaded rod sticking out the top.

OK so you're saying the metal tube is not used. Would you be able to post a photo of the top of your rear shocks, from the engine bay? It would help if I could see how much threaded rod is protruding above the top nuts.

The image in the instruction sheets shows a just few mm above the nuts, as you would expect. But when I assemble per the instructions it sticks out around 35 - 40mm !

 

[MexiRicer]

OK so you're saying the metal tube is not used. Would you be able to post a photo of the top of your rear shocks, from the engine bay? It would help if I could see how much threaded rod is protruding above the top nuts.

The image in the instruction sheets shows a just few mm above the nuts, as you would expect. But when I assemble per the instructions it sticks out around 35 - 40mm !

That oem metal tube IS used... Your first picture looks right, only the metal tube is supposed to be nudged inside that huge rubber bushing, so stick it in there and the metal washer on the top should sit right above the bushing, making full contact. Once the coilovers are installed and the car is on all fours, I then tightened those two nuts at the top of the threading. It is normal if thread sticks out up top, the variant 3's are designed that way for dampening adjustment.

 

[sparky]

That oem metal tube IS used... Your first picture looks right, only the metal tube is supposed to be nudged inside that huge rubber bushing

?? the tube is inside the rubber bushing already (in image #1)
The tube is much longer than the bushing is thick - see image #2

I'd REALLY appreciate a photo of top of a fully installed unit

 

[MexiRicer]

Okay I'll be home in about 3 hours, check back around then

 

[sparky]

excellent, thanks

 

[junior40er]

Tube goes inside rubber and out the bottom. There are two pieces of rubber, they go through both.

 

[sparky]

solved! probably ... following all your helpful suggestions I realised the rubber piece appears twice in parts diagram (item #2) and I think I'm missing that second (lower) piece ... standby!

 

[junior40er]

The rubber is 2 piece. Look at the PDF diagram and you will see there are two numbers 2's. The two rubber pieces go together like a sandwich and tube goes through them both. Post a pic and I can probably tell you. Just be careful when lowering ur car back to ground to make sure its good.

 

[MexiRicer]

Sorry if these pictures are too big, im uploading on mobile device

 

[sparky]

thanks for the pictures, and suggestions from everyone ... the problem has been sorted. I found the missing rubber spacer under my workbench (doh!), it must have fallen out when I was removing top hat.

 

[junior40er]

Those little parts can easily be lost. Let me see pics of it lowered.

 

[sparky]

I'm not actually lowering the car, but swapping out a perfectly good set of Bilsteins with Dali progressive springs. But for the record ... here's a "before" photo (missing wheels centres, although now it has a set). I'm setting the KW3 at minimum height so there may be change in ride height ... I'll post an "after" photo if there is!

 

[kookoo4nsx]

I'd be interested in hearing your review of the KW's vs. the bilsteins with Dali springs. Was there something about the bilsteins that you didn't like?
What are you trying to achieve with the KW's, Track use, height adjustment, better damping????

 

[sparky]

IMO the Bilsteins + Dali progressive springs are a great setup for smooth trackwork, but a bit harsh for general road use. And they are not adjustable . Another minor issue is the Bilstein's "squeak" when cold, although this stops after a minute or two. So I'm looking forward to a better all round driving experience (road/rally/track) from the KW3's with their superior adjustability (bump/rebound/ride height) and slightly softer springs. I'll let you know.

 

[joove]

@sparky: After you fix everything up, I would be very interested in hearing about the sounds you hear from the new shocks. My car started making rattling/metallic noises after I put the shocks on. It spent 5 days at Hilltop Auto with Don trying to figure out the noises, he finally concluded it was the shocks. My suspicion is that the loose bump-stop plate is what could be causing the noises. I am very curious to see if I screwed up the install somehow or if everyone gets those noises.

 

[sparky]

@joove, no problem but it will be a few weeks / even a month or more before she's back on the road (painting panels etc). If that's too long there a several/many other Prime members with KW3 fitted already who should be able to answer your query