Installing H&R springs on stock struts...any advice?

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3 November 2006
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ive done plenty of honda/acura suspensions in the past 10years....but my first time on a NSX.

its always nice to know WHAT I NEED to know before i work on it.


you guys have any TIPS and ADVICES or may be somewhat of shortcut on doing the suspension?


i will be doing this friday night.
im just itching to install my 18/19 wheels too thats why :redface:

thanks alot
 
This is not a direct answer to your question, but I would really reconsider the approach. If you're putting H&R springs, I'd suggest putting on a nice new set of shocks too. The springs will drop the car, but they won't do all that much for handling, so you'll be burning up the road with 12 year old shocks - which doesn't make any sense to me.
 
I would take that even further.

Go return/exchange them for a true coiloever solution.

The NSX is a reliable exotic and should have parts that belongs on it.

My experience with said springs is that they will sag over time.

At least with a coil over solution you can adjust the ride height for each corner.
 
this is just a temporary solution fellas....


i will be saving up for JIC magic. but right now, i got a cheap deal for H&R and paid $150shipped for it. on top of that, i really wanna mount my wheels :redface:

i dont race this car nor take hard corners...i have my 1000rr for that.

this car doesnt come out til 10pm on fri, sat night when i go to the club lol :redface:
 
I hope the JIC's did something about their shocks rusting.

Not sure if it was some joke, but when they first came out for the FD and other cars they were rusting after a few months.


They dont rust anymore. Not in california anyways. a friend is running JIC flt-a2 for a couple of years now they still look great.
 
this is just a temporary solution fellas....


i will be saving up for JIC magic. but right now, i got a cheap deal for H&R and paid $150shipped for it. on top of that, i really wanna mount my wheels :redface:

i dont race this car nor take hard corners...i have my 1000rr for that.

this car doesnt come out til 10pm on fri, sat night when i go to the club lol :redface:

JIC magic is a great choice. i run it on my car and its great.

5 hours? by your self? :tongue:

The only thing to watch out for is to disconnect the rear control arm at the 2 alignment adjustment bolts instead of the tie rod.

god i hate technical terms, i always get them wrong.

anyways, besides that, you'll need to do some real tugging on the lower control arm to make enough room for the stock struct to come out.

work safe and make sure you have jack stands on all 4 corners.

leave extra time to do this job. also air tools like an air ratchet helps a lot.

You'll also need a 5.5mm? hex alen key to hold the front and rear struct bar stud so it wont spin as your taking off the retaining bolt ..... bad discription but youll know what im talking about when you get there :(

if you need help, give me a ring . ill be in for another couple of hours.
 
Its a fairly simple procedure. I had my Bilsteins in and out on all four corners less than 2hrs. Of course i had the advantage of using a lift, a press & air tools. In my opinion the rears were the tricky since you needed a second hand to press down on the rear control arm. The front involved removal of about 5 screws to have clearance to be removed. I never had to use a hex key. you will need a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm sockets and a philips screwdrive for the rear garnish removal.
 
did this last night....took me total of 2hrs (including all the bullshitting around with friends).


then 2 of my friends with their S2k's decided they wanted me to do theirs too......being a good friend, i couldnt say no since its my "car night".

S2k's rear was a bit harder, but once we kncoked out one---it was a breeze....but still took us abt 4hrs on 2 s2ks....i was exhausted!!!


but oh my, my car is REALLLY slammed.
 
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