Install new Brake kit. Rotor 1st? Pad 1st?

[NSXDreamer2]

I just got a set of replacement rotors and pads along with the brake lines. I had experienced problems with putting everything new altogether on my other car...

Here's the question:
Should I install the new rotor and drive smooth for 500 miles with the old pads??

OR.. Should I install the new pad (with old rotors) and do the break-in (bringing pads to their working temp as manufacturer suggested??) Then when it's done putting the new rotors in??

Please let me know which is the proper way... By the way, how would I change the brake lines without introducing air in the line? Should I pre-fill brake fluid inside the line??

Thanks in advance for any answer...

 

[RP-Motorsports]

Put on the new rotors, pads, and lines all at one time. The pads will wear off the zinc coating in about 2 minutes. just drive it normal for a few days, and the pads will bed just fine. (I actually bed my pads in at the track in about 3 seconds )

As far as the lines go, this is a perfect time to flush out all of your old fluid front and rear. You can't install new lines without introducing air. You will need to bleed the lines. Do the rears as well. It would be beneficial to get s.s. lines for the rear as well. It will "tighten" up the pedal even more when on the track. If you are unfamiliar with bleeding techniques, ask someone locally to help, or take your car to a trusted shop. Last check the FAQ for brake fluid bleeding tips, as well as what fluid to use. Some people like the cheap Ford HD crap, others like myself prefer to spend a bit more on some good Motul or a brand similar.

Good Luck

 

[ncdogdoc]

As T Bell said, do it all at once. If you HAVE to do it in stages, do the pads first, then the rotors. Follow the pad manufacturer's directions for bedding the pads. If not done at the same time, which I think would be a waste of time, then rebed the pads after putting the new rotors on.

You will not lose much fluid replacing lines, but bleed, bleed, and then bleed some more. Follow the FAQ, or go to www.Danoland.com for his procedure. Ideally bleed the right rear first, then the left front, then left rear, and finally right front. Have fun!!

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/bleed/bleed.html

 

[NSXDreamer2]

I'm indeed familiar with bleeding procedures, and I have armed with Motul . thanks guys for your comments.

The only thing that confused me is that the bedding in procedures of brake pads required "gradually increasing speed" stopping,(which will get the pads/rotor pretty hot.), where the rotors required first 300-500 miles less than moderate braking... The two procedures seems like contradicting to each other...

thus my question... I guessed I will go back and check the stop tech web site and see what they'll recommend.

Thanks again.

 

[NSX-Racer]

You can stress your discs much earlier than 3-500 miles. On my track only car I change the pads too when the discs should be changed (about once a season, pads more often of course) because disc and pads should be seen as a unit that has to work together after the bedding procedure. I use to drive one session (about 20-30 minutes) with moderate speed and increasing brake power at every lap but always below the ABS regulation.

Afterwards I let things cool down for at least one hour. Next session I let tires and brakes warm up for about 3 laps and then I use the brakes to full extend - no harm 'til now although there may be smoother bedding procedures.

 

[W]

If the pads are the same, I thought the recommendation was to change the rotors first, then do the pads.

 

[NSX-Racer]

Who had recommended that? Don't see any sense in it.