In Need Of Help, Starting Problems

[YellOhNSX]

I don't know what is going on but here is the problem:

I start the car and it starts fine, but right after it cranks up the engine chokes and dies.

In the beginning it just did it a few times and started fine. But now it got to the point where once it starts it just chokes and dies right away.

Also when the car starts up fine and when I start moving the car just dies. I mean the engine literarily shuts off. It happens a few times.

Please if anyone know what the problem might be please assist me.

The most recent maintanence I have done to the car is:

Changing the Oil
Changing the Fuel Filter
Changing the Spark Plugs

 

[MarkB]

...The most recent maintanence I have done to the car is:

Changing the Oil
Changing the Fuel Filter
Changing the Spark Plugs

Knowing no more than you have stated, I would assume a fuel supply problem. Was the fuel filter properly installed, is your fuel pump working properly, and are all of your fuel lines unobstructed and free from kinks?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

What year? If an earlier car, no doubt, get a new main relay. $52 or so, easy install. What is happening is when you are on the "on" position of the ignition switch the ECU controlled relay is not keeping the fuel pump running.

Go over the FactorX and ask Mike if you can borrow one to test it.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[gheba_nsx]

I also vote for the main relay, happened to me six months ago. 50$ and it was solved...

 

[YellOhNSX]

My car is a '91. Thanks for the assistance everyone... It will be the first thing I check out. Thanks again.

 

[Zishan]

A little late, but I vote MAIN RELAY!! Your lucky, it's a cheap fix.
part# RZ1010 or something like that?
Regards
Z

 

[Larry Bastanza]

NSX FoYoAss is correct, that is the manufacturers part number. To order it from Acura the PN is 39400-SL0-003. Ask me how I know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

www.hondacuraworld.com $52.52 + shipping

HTH,
LarryB

 

[daveh]

Hey there .2 differnt scenario's.If you lose all the instrument cluster lights (oil,batt,brake) then it's HIGHLY likely the electrical portion of the ignition switch(come'on Larry!!!).If you still have the cluster light 's then like the guy's said ..The main relay.If often found that if you listen to the sound of the relay switching you can tell if it's bad or not .It should give a good loud click after 2-sec's when the check engine light shut's off .I'm sure you know what I mean.Good Luck.Both fixes easily done yourself

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Hi Daveh,

You do bring up a very valid point. I had a brain lapse for sure. But if YellOhNSX can get over to FactorX I am sure they would lend a hand to be sure it is the relay or not.

Funny, when it happens to you within a few weeks that is what you focus on. Unfortunately mine cost me $52 + a $700 flatbed ride home from the track.

Thanks for pointing it out.

Good Luck YellOhNSX, keep us posted.

LarryB

 

[daveh]

Ouchhhh.I guess a 400HP flatbed's the next purchase.Maybe swaybars too.Larry where do you find the time to help us all out?

 

[YellOhNSX]

Damn I tried the New Relay and no good. The car still starts up and just chokes and dies.

What daveh said is correct, when its on the "ON" position I do lose my cluster lights, the oil, check, & brake shows up but very dim. All other indicators are gone. What must I do now?

 

[ak]

did you check the ignition switch as mentioned above? Check this thread for info on how to diagnose.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23800

good luck!

 

[YellOhNSX]

Thanks AK let me try that and see if it works.

 

[daveh]

A SWITCH,NO DOUBT

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Well,

I found out today there is a THIRD possibility. The fuel pump resistor. After thinking my car was totally cured, I was out on a small road trip and DEAD. The car starts but will not run!!

What I did was disconnect the resistor and reconnect it. Car instantly started. After review of the schematics, the resistor is NOT used during the starting mode, it is shorted out. If you disconnect the resistor, the car will do the exact same thing, start, but not run. Mine is very intermittent, so I have a paperclip with me until I get a new resistor.

I found if you jumper the connector with the resistor disconnected the car starts and runs fine. It will probably run a little rich, but it will get you home in a jam, and save the towing bill.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[YellOhNSX]

My NA1 is working thanks to everyone who helped. The problem was the ignition switch. I thank you again.