Improving braking performance

[4AU4LIFE]

I have noticed sometimes driving in traffic that after a few hard applications of the brake that it starts to get a little soft. What are some recommendations for things to improve the performance.
I have Bradi slotted/drilled rotors on all four corners already. OEM pads and brake lines.
I don't plan on tracking the car but would like a better pedal feel and results.
TIA

 

[Scin]

Bleeding your brakes will probably firm up the pedal, if your fluid is old you may want to flush all the old stuff out and replace it. Stainless steel lines will also help firm the pedal up because they won't expand like the plastic ones. Stainless steel lines are more prone to breaking however.

 

[Acura NsX Pilot]

I would say a more aggressive brake pad compound and bleeding and replacing the brake fluid with the Blue stuff.

 

[john@johnhudakracing]

I have noticed sometimes driving in traffic that after a few hard applications of the brake that it starts to get a little soft. What are some recommendations for things to improve the performance.
I have Bradi slotted/drilled rotors on all four corners already. OEM pads and brake lines.
I don't plan on tracking the car but would like a better pedal feel and results.
TIA

My short answer would be to buy some Cobalt GT Sport Brake Pads, two liters of ATE, and to make it easier a set of speed bleeders. SS Lines are good too but optional/secondary; but definitely do swap the pads, install the bleeders, bleed the brakes really well and often and you'll have more than enough brakes for driving in traffic on street tires. :biggrin:

 

[4AU4LIFE]

My short answer would be to buy some Cobalt GT Sport Brake Pads, two liters of ATE, and to make it easier a set of speed bleeders. SS Lines are good too but optional/secondary; but definitely do swap the pads, install the bleeders, bleed the brakes really well and often and you'll have more than enough brakes for driving in traffic on street tires. :biggrin:

Ok, sounds good.
I've heard that adding s/s brake lines puts additional strain on the master cylinder and other braking compnents making them fail sooner.

 

[RP-Motorsports]

Ok, sounds good.
I've heard that adding s/s brake lines puts additional strain on the master cylinder and other braking compnents making them fail sooner.

(s.s. lines adding strain) That is a crock.

You don't need speed bleeders, just a buddy.

ATE blue is great for the street, Motul 600 even better.

Hawk HPS are also great street pads.

 

[ncdogdoc]

I would just do your fluid first. There are many trade-offs for more aggressive pads, and for most street situations the stock pads will be sufficient. You can use fancy fluid, but if you are not running canyons (I don't remember many in central Florida) and only dealing with stop and go with the occasional freeway on ramps/off ramps I would just walk around to your parts counter and get a bottle of Ford Super Duty, which should be very cheap if you get any employee discounts. Get a buddy that knows what they are doing or even your service people can probably do it for you while you are at work. HTH.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

So brake fluid is brake fluid?? Just make sure that I get the same DOT # of it?
Would the s/s brake lines help any?

 

[nsxtasy]

I would just do your fluid first. There are many trade-offs for more aggressive pads, and for most street situations the stock pads will be sufficient.

I agree.

 

[4AU4LIFE]

Great. I didn't realize the fluid would have that much of an effect on it.
Probably has never been changed since new. I've had it a few years and have never done it.
Should I go ahead and get the lines also since I'm there anyway?

 

[nsxtasy]

So brake fluid is brake fluid?? Just make sure that I get the same DOT # of it?

Not all brake fluid is the same, and not all brake fluid with the same DOT number is the same. The resistance of brake fluid to boiling (which often shows up as lack of effectiveness after several hard stops) is measured by its boiling point; the higher the boiling point, the better (the greater the resistance to boiling). Boiling points are specified both "dry" (when the fluid is new, out of the bottle) and "wet" (when it has had a chance to absorb moisture over time, which reduces its boiling point). You can run into problems from using a fluid with low boiling points, as well as from not changing it in a while.

The wet and dry boiling points for most popular fluids can be found in this previous post.

I like the Motul RBF 600 fluid, because its boiling points (593F/420F dry/wet) are higher than most other fluids, yet is still very reasonably priced (typically $12-15 per half liter) and can be purchased at many speed shops (including on-line vendors like Pegasus and Racer Parts Wholesale), as well as brake specialists such as Cobalt Friction.

But for street use, ATE (or even stock Honda fluid) would be more than adequate, as long as it's reasonably fresh.

 

[nsxtasy]

Great. I didn't realize the fluid would have that much of an effect on it. Probably has never been changed since new. I've had it a few years and have never done it.

Then you should definitely change the fluid.

The recommendation in the owner's manual is to change it as part of the service every 30K miles or two years, whichever comes first. Because of the ability of the brake fluid to absorb moisture over time (even when the car is just sitting) and lose effectiveness, it is particularly important to observe the time interval, and change it at least once every two years, even if you don't drive all that many miles during that period.

Should I go ahead and get the lines also since I'm there anyway?

The reason for changing the brake lines is if you have a "spongy" feeling brake pedal, which is a symptom of the brake lines swelling when you apply the brakes. I've never felt this on my NSX, and I still have the original, stock brake lines. If you don't have a spongy pedal, I wouldn't worry about it. Just my O.

 

[KGP]

Probably has never been changed since new. I've had it a few years and have never done it.
Should I go ahead and get the lines also since I'm there anyway?

Change the fluid. For your pourposes, the OEM fluid will be just fine. No ss lines yet. See how the flush works first. Might want to flush the ABS while your at it.:smile:

 

[4AU4LIFE]

Alright then. I'll go to Honda and get some DOT3? brake fluid and then break out the Helm book and change my fluid.
How long should this task take? I've never done it before so should I get the help of someone that is pretty good at turning wrenches? My dad is a Master tech in Honda and FMC and is right down the street from me.
I assume the book will tell me the tools required also.

 

[RP-Motorsports]

I originally typed a whole paragraph on how I do it, but this will be MUCH easier to follow!

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/bleed/bleed.html



Here is how to do the ABS.
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm

 

[KGP]

Alright then. I'll go to Honda and get some DOT3? brake fluid and then break out the Helm book and change my fluid.
How long should this task take? I've never done it before...

Ditto what Tom said. Just use Dano's write ups. Your Dad should have access to the special tools for the ABS bleed.