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I have have found only one accurate way to check timing. I have the same 500. Snap On lite, and when I first started using it, it seemed like even when it was reading correct, it was never steady enough to read within 4 degrees.I could not get a consistent reading within the +/- 2 degree marks. This made me nervous about being at least 4 degrees off. Devin shared this technique with me- I removed the (number1) coil, and installed an Integra wire (or any wire with a deep thru-the-valve-cover reach) onto the plug. I stuffed the other end of the wire into the coil and hooked my inductive pickup to the wire. The timing reading was dead steady. I was using an AEM ECU the first time I did this, and was able to use the ecu program to move the timing mark one degree at a time, and could see these tiny changes on the crank pulley.I've set up many AEM's since, and usualy do a before and after check just for S&G's, and the difference is always remarkable.The service loop by the igniter just doesn't cut it.HTH,MB
I have have found only one accurate way to check timing. I have the same 500. Snap On lite, and when I first started using it, it seemed like even when it was reading correct, it was never steady enough to read within 4 degrees.I could not get a consistent reading within the +/- 2 degree marks. This made me nervous about being at least 4 degrees off. Devin shared this technique with me- I removed the (number1) coil, and installed an Integra wire (or any wire with a deep thru-the-valve-cover reach) onto the plug. I stuffed the other end of the wire into the coil and hooked my inductive pickup to the wire. The timing reading was dead steady. I was using an AEM ECU the first time I did this, and was able to use the ecu program to move the timing mark one degree at a time, and could see these tiny changes on the crank pulley.
I've set up many AEM's since, and usualy do a before and after check just for S&G's, and the difference is always remarkable.
The service loop by the igniter just doesn't cut it.
HTH,
MB