Ignition Coils front and rear???

[53heloFE]

I just got the car today, I purchased it sight unseen knowing it was running a little rough. I got it and it sure is. So I am thinking start with a tune up and work my way up to get it running smoothly. I was going to replace the spark plugs but have to order them so I decided to take the ignition coils off and ohm them out to make sure none are bad. I downloaded the service manual and was reading about how there are different front and rear coils. When I took the coil covers off of the front I noticed the coils had "RR" on them, I am thinking maybe that means they should be on the rear? After taking the rear coil covers off the coils have "FR" on them, once again I am thinking these should be on the front? I am about to go switch them around so the RR is on the rear and the FR is on the front.

I was curious if anyone can confirm that these markings on the coils are to designate between front and rear? I will let you guys know how it turns out running wise.

 

[Jin1976]

I think FR is for the front and RR is for rear.

 

[m3456y]

Yes, FR is front, RR rear. Before you buy new coils...I have 3 known good fronts that I needlessly replaced chasing a missfire problem. E-mail me if you want to try them. [email protected].

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Before you replace anything do a compression test, You must know that the engine is mechanically healthy, before moving ahead.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[53heloFE]

Before you replace anything do a compression test, You must know that the engine is mechanically healthy, before moving ahead.

HTH,
LarryB

Thanks for the suggestion Larry. I did a compression test today and came up with two @ 180, two @ 185, and two @ 190. I believe these are good compression numbers for a 3.0 right?

I put the coils back in their proper position and replaced the spark plugs also. The plugs help, especially since the ones I removed were not the correct ones, and tow of the six were different sizes, types, and brands. The person who worked on this car last sure was not very good.

I am still having a pretty good miss and sputter at all speeds. The car is slow off the start and gets better towards 3K RPM but still boggs down if I try to accelerate too much. I have gotten P1204/06/07 and 1300 on two seperate occasions. I am beginning to think it is a fuel supply problem. I will have a new filter in Monday. Every now and again it will surge and accelerate smoothly, but it does not happen at any specific operating/driving paramater.

 

[53heloFE]

Yes, FR is front, RR rear. Before you buy new coils...I have 3 known good fronts that I needlessly replaced chasing a missfire problem. E-mail me if you want to try them.QUOTE]

Thanks, I'm not sure if I will need them yet, but I will let you know if I do. What ended up fixing your missfire if it was not the needlessly replaced coils? I could sure you something specific to look at to eliminate or find bad.

 

[01blacks4]

Thanks for the suggestion Larry. I did a compression test today and came up with two @ 180, two @ 185, and two @ 190. I believe these are good compression numbers for a 3.0 right?

I put the coils back in their proper position and replaced the spark plugs also. The plugs help, especially since the ones I removed were not the correct ones, and tow of the six were different sizes, types, and brands. The person who worked on this car last sure was not very good.

I am still having a pretty good miss and sputter at all speeds. The car is slow off the start and gets better towards 3K RPM but still boggs down if I try to accelerate too much. I have gotten P1204/06/07 and 1300 on two seperate occasions. I am beginning to think it is a fuel supply problem. I will have a new filter in Monday. Every now and again it will surge and accelerate smoothly, but it does not happen at any specific operating/driving paramater.

suprizingly i wash me car today (ran great before wash) and now i am having the same issues you are.....lets compare notes.

marc

 

[53heloFE]

suprizingly i wash me car today (ran great before wash) and now i am having the same issues you are.....lets compare notes.

marc

Marc,

When I first pulled the rear coil packs there was a lot of water down the holes. I dried all the water out, and replaced the plugs, also making sure the coil packs were dried out and that helped a little. I just resoldered the Main Relay with not improvement.

I have pulled each fuel injector connector off as the car was running and could hear the same change in how it was running with each one I removed. I did almost the same thing with each coil unplugged, just that I shut the car off each time I did that one. I was hoping that if the car did not change how it was idling when I removed a coil or fuel injector from the equation then I would be able to say it was one of them.

If I knew where the fuel injector resistor was I would ohm that thing out. I will be trying to find that next.

I disconnected the O2 sensors as Larry Suggested in another thread, but that did not make any difference either.

I sure do like getting monies worth out of my code scanner though :biggrin:

Let me know if you do anything that makes a difference with yours. More than likely something just got wet on yous and hopefully it will dry out by morning.

Jason

 

[01blacks4]

jason yeah i thought so too...i went for a little drive on the freeway...low gas peadl pressure hoping it may dry out....no luck....i am think it is water also bit it seems likei have been running rich lately also so maybe a fouled plug... no code scanner and im not throwing codes so (at least no CEL)....

its always something....

 

[D'Ecosse]

If I knew where the fuel injector resistor was I would ohm that thing out. I will be trying to find that next.

Here you go (post #4)


Edit - this is the Fuel pump resistor I linked - I read this late at night and didn't read clearly enough!

 

[01blacks4]

hey anyone know where in the manual the compression ##'s are?

 

[53heloFE]

hey anyone know where in the manual the compression ##'s are?

Top of page 3-2 from the manual I downloaded from this site. I am still waiting for the manual to come in for my 95.

 

[53heloFE]

Here you go (post #4)

Thanks, that sure saves me some time searching for it. Just the picture from the testing procedures was not helping me much. Guess next time I should do a search of the manual for what I am looking for :biggrin:

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Also you can disconnect the misfire detection module on the inner passenger side near the alternator. This modlue detects misfire, but can also be the cause of misfire. You will throw some codes since the ECU will think they are all misfiring, but you can eliminate this as the problem.

Also might be a good idea to throw in a bottle of injector cleaner. I like Techron.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[53heloFE]

Also you can disconnect the misfire detection module on the inner passenger side near the alternator. This modlue detects misfire, but can also be the cause of misfire. You will throw some codes since the ECU will think they are all misfiring, but you can eliminate this as the problem.

Also might be a good idea to throw in a bottle of injector cleaner. I like Techron.

HTH,
LarryB

LARRY!!!! You are like some sort of genius man!!!! :biggrin: That made a huge difference. Much better, still a little rough and high on the idle. Just to make sure I disconnected the proper module, it is the little box sitting just in front of the alternator pulley if you are looking at the motor from passengers side to drivers side correct? Also, is there a different name for that box? I could not find anything in the service manual by searching out "misfire", as I was hoping the box would be labeled misfire sensor/dector. A part number would be good if you happen to be able to get that, or is the part number on the side of the box what is used by Acura?

Now, while that did make a huge difference, and the car has some acceleration now, if I give it more than 1/8-1/4 throttle it starts to bog down, sputter and had a small back fire once. The codes I got after I got back from a short drive were 1316/17/18/19. I checked to make sure I had battery voltage at the injector connector with the ignition on and that was good. I think I need a new multi meter though as it shows everything I ohm out as having 0 which would indicate a short if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the guidance,
Jason

 

[Briank]

My guess is you are looking at the fuel pump resistor I assume you had to jump the connector for the car to run. If that's the case and you are still having the problem after replacing the fuel filter, the fuel pump is next on the replacment list.

 

[53heloFE]

My guess is you are looking at the fuel pump resistor I assume you had to jump the connector for the car to run. If that's the case and you are still having the problem after replacing the fuel filter, the fuel pump is next on the replacment list.

BrianK,

I actually did not have to jump the connector to get it started. I did a small test of the fuel pressure regulator and removed the vacume line from it, I could tell the fuel pressure had to of increased because the engine idle increased. Not that it was a conclusive pressure regulator test since I did not hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel filter, but I think it was a good indication of how it is operating. I think the fuel pump is putting out the right amount, though I have not run those tests yet. I am guessing it is a fuel/air problem or an associated sensor. One of those is not keeping up with the increased demand of higher throttle settings, figuring out which is te chore :biggrin:

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The spark detection module is only 1995 + cars so it is not in the on line manual. It is part of the OBDII system, not OBDI.

It is called "Unit" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

005 37950-PR7-A31 UNIT 1 1995 Acura NSX 597.86

You can see it here:

http://www.acuraparts247.com/sunnyside/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=NSX&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=2DR+NSX-T&catcgry5=CONTROL+UNIT+(4)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

Your compression sounds OK BTW. A little low, but I do not know how fast it is cranking, and it must be warm.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Jin1976]

Your coil cover gasket maybe bad. I had mine replace the same time when I had new coils installed. Check your coil for rustiness and replace the gasket.

suprizingly i wash me car today (ran great before wash) and now i am having the same issues you are.....lets compare notes.

marc

 

[53heloFE]

The spark detection module is only 1995 + cars so it is not in the on line manual. It is part of the OBDII system, not OBDI.

It is called "Unit" !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

005 37950-PR7-A31 UNIT 1 1995 Acura NSX 597.86

You can see it here:

http://www.acuraparts247.com/sunnyside/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=NSX&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=2DR+NSX-T&catcgry5=CONTROL+UNIT+(4)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no

Your compression sounds OK BTW. A little low, but I do not know how fast it is cranking, and it must be warm.

HTH,
LarryB

Thanks Larry, I will be ordering that thing tomorrow. I got a new multi meter and ohmed out the fuel injector resistor, injectors, and ignition coils all ohmed out good. I will put in the injector cleaner, get a new fuel filter in it tomorrow and see if that will help with the bogging down under more than 1/4 throttle.

For the compression, the manual said 199 was the max. Is that correct or is it higher for a 95? Motors don't necessarily come from the manufacturer putting out the maximum allowable do they? The car was warm when I did the test, but not sure about the max rpm. I think each time it was turned over 5-7 times, and the numbers were max reached.

Thanks again for all of the inputs from each of you.

Jason