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I see nothing is connected to the accessory spades above the fusebox, where I would have done it. I'm interested in how you were able to be 100% sure they used that point to trigger the lo-beams as DRL. If they did, the ignition-on would trigger the relay and it should stay triggered as long as the ignition is on, and not switch with the headlight switch. Thus, the relay switching on and off with the headlight switch while the lights remain on with the ignition on suggests the opposite, that they are not grounding the red/blu, unless your high beams are also on and it's the high beam relay that's switching/clicking.

Diagnostic (Ignition on means key to on, without starting):

1. Double check to be sure you are identifying the high and low beam relays correctly. Perhaps remove the high beam relay if there is any chance of confusion.
2. Turn the key to accessory and verify that the headlights do not come on. If they come on at accessory, there will be a different diagnosis tree.
3. Check that turning the ignition to on without starting the car still activates DRL. If the lo-beams come on as DRL only when it's running, they are using a DRL module that will require different diagnosis.
4. Check that turning the ignition to on with the e-brake engaged still activates DRL. If the lo-beams come on as DRL only when the e-brake is disengaged, they are using a DRL module that will require different diagnosis.
5. With the headlight switch off, turn the key on and then off and see if you can feel the lo-beam headlight relay click as the key turns on and off. If so, that means the DRL is grounding the red/blu wire between the headlight switch and the relay box. (In that case, switching the headlight switch with the ignition on should not make the relay click as the ignition+ should be keeping it triggered.) Trace the RED/BLU from the headlight switch to the fusebox. The DRL is tapping in somewhere to ground it, probably with a relay triggered by the Ignition on.
   1. If not, DRL probably isn't grounding the red/blu anywhere, let alone at 2 where circled.
6. Headlight switch off: Remove the lo-beam relay and turn the ignition on. If the lights come on, this is evidence that the DRL is being activated after the relay.
7. If lights come on without the relay, pull the headlight fuses. If this stops them from coming on, the DRL tap is in the fusebox, between the relay and the fuses.
8. If they still come on without the fuses, DRL is tapping in after the fuses. Trace the wiring from the relay box to the headlights. There must be a (hopefully fused) 12V DRL tap-in on the RED/YEL and the RED/GRN going from the relay box to the headlights.
9. If the relay is required for the DRL to work, this suggests that that the system is grounding the red/blu somewhere, but then you should hear the relay click with ignition switch, and when it is on, the headlight switch should have no effect on the relay to cause clicking, because it is already triggered by the ignition+, presumably grounding the red/blu.