How hard to install Dali Swaybars?

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1 September 2005
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I am contemplating buying the Dali Track Swaybars for my car. I just wondered how hard this install is. Is this something I can tackle in my garage?

Also, I have the H&R springs on my car at this time. If I go with the Dali Swaybars, what would be a good setting for the sway bars?

Thanks in advance!:smile:
 
Yes you can do in the garage; not very difficult. Be safe and use all 4 jack stands if you do not have a lift. You may need to revert the position of the drop links depending on whether they will touch your shocks or not (DaliRacing offers adjustable links if necessary).

You don't mention if you have a pre 97 or 97+ but I doubt you will have issues with the battery tray touching the sway bar.

Regarding which position on the holes, it depends if you are currently on OEM sway bars or have already gone one step up. If you don't track your car, and you have OEM sway bars now, use the first hole from the very end on both the front/rear. If you find this giving you understeer, go to the second hole on the front. The transition to track sway bars is quite noticeable - even when I went from Comptech sway bars on stiffest positions. HTH.
 
If you haven't ordered already, I'd suggest the street/track bars for street use. Start in the middle on both. Adjust as necessary.

If your battery tray touches, I think it'd just be on one corner of the sheet metal. Trim it. If part of your radiator hard line touches, you can bend the mounting tab on the hard line upward. Watch out for rubbing on the rubber radiator hose though, mine looks like it gets pretty close but never actually touches.

It can be handy to have the bottom of your wheels a few inches above the ground so you can slide a floor jack under one of the wheels. Can help with lining up the holes to the swaybar links.

Install isn't hard. It's actually the funnest thing I've gotten to install in the car. Even more fun test and tune. BTW, watch out for over steer during test/tune.

I run matching street/track dali sway bars. I believe I am at full stiff front, middle rear. Just remember, "the longer the bar, the softer" aka holes on the end are full soft.
 
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My car is a 92. I also am not sure if and where the sway bars will touch around the battery tray. So I wouldn't be sure what to look for until the bars are put on to the car. I've never seen pix of this.

What is the difference between the Dali Street/Track bars, and the Dali Track swaybars? I know the diameter is .875 for the Street track, and 1.0 for the Track bars. Obviously the Track bars will be stiffer. But would they be a better application for my car? I drive frequently on winding roads, and the bars would be put to good use.

I just didn't know which are more practical for me.

I currently have the H&R springs with OEM shocks/struts, with the NSX-R Chasis bars.
 
Well stiffer gives you less body roll. For a T-top I would have said don't even bother with a street/track just go straight to track. In your case, given that you have H&R and like the winding roads, you may find after a few months that the street/track was great but you now want more ....... the addiction never stops.

Track sway bars on my 98-T set up at the stiffest position on the front has more clearance than I had with Comptech, and hence I doubt you will have the same issues with the battery tray/Type R bar on a 92. Do a search, much has been said about the latter with pics and fixes :wink:
 
I found this post in another thread....

"Rather then go through your 3 questions I'll sum it up. Your car is a 91 so you will have NO problems. All my problems were because of the sway bar bracket spacers that Acura installed from 97+. Since you don't have them you will be fine.

No matter what sway bar setting you are on it shouldn't rub anything. Now, the only thing people noted is you maybe (I stress maybe) have to notch the very corners of your battery tray. But don't get hung up on that point, you probably won't have to. Take a look at the picture below, keep in mind this is my car with the "problem" spacers installed (my NSX is a 1998)."


Based off of this, I should be safe with the Dali Track Swaybars on my 1992 NSX.

Thanks for the info guys!:biggrin:
 
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My car is a 92. I also am not sure if and where the sway bars will touch around the battery tray. So I wouldn't be sure what to look for until the bars are put on to the car. I've never seen pix of this.

What is the difference between the Dali Street/Track bars, and the Dali Track swaybars? I know the diameter is .875 for the Street track, and 1.0 for the Track bars. Obviously the Track bars will be stiffer. But would they be a better application for my car? I drive frequently on winding roads, and the bars would be put to good use.

I just didn't know which are more practical for me.

I currently have the H&R springs with OEM shocks/struts, with the NSX-R Chasis bars.

Street/track will be the best for a street car. I don't think that the full track bars would give any benefit without "race" tires.

To install my front track bar, I had to put of some srews of the spare tire tray (the two longitudinal bars on which it seats) because I was not able to pass it from the right or left side with the lower Type R chassis bar installed. But this is perhaps not the case with the street/track.

I suggest to begin full soft rear, middle front in order to prevent a possible oversteer beeing to stiff rear.
 
Street/track will be the best for a street car. I don't think that the full track bars would give any benefit without "race" tires.

To install my front track bar, I had to put of some srews of the spare tire tray (the two longitudinal bars on which it seats) because I was not able to pass it from the right or left side with the lower Type R chassis bar installed. But this is perhaps not the case with the street/track.

I suggest to begin full soft rear, middle front in order to prevent a possible oversteer beeing to stiff rear.

Exactly what I was thinking about track bars on the street and needing race tires. Only diffference is I went full stiff front and middle rear.

Same thing about the spare tire tray. leave a few threads attached on the two rear bolts. The rest of the bolts gotta come out. Remove spare tire, makes it alot easier. But yeah, gotta play with the tray on the street/track bars too. I don't have the type R chasis bar. I don't believe in the need for someone like myself (joe the plumber) to need it.
 
UPDATE...

I finally got around to purchasing some swaybars.:tongue: I went to Dali and after talking breifly with MJ, I went with the "Type-Q" bars. I waited because I was also in the process of picking out my new wheels (Volk GTVs). So those set me back for a while.

I plan to get the swaybars on soon, and I'll try and post up some picks of the job. As well as post up some before/after drive feedback.

Once again, thanks to all who gave their wisdom, and experience.:smile:
 
UPDATE...
I now have the swaybars on my car. I have to say, this was quite possibly the easiest install of any part I've done on the car.:smile:

The only pain in the butt was having to remove the battery tray. It wasn't hard, I just didn't feel like doing it. But in order for the job to get done, I made sure to do everything the right way.

One thing I did do different on the reassembly, was to put a single washer under each connecting point of the Type-R brace, to help allow a bigger gap between it and the new swaybar. This did NOT prevent rubbing of the two bars against each other. So I "might" remove the Type-R brace bar.

Here are a few pix of them on the car.(front & rear) Thank you to all who lended their input and knowledge.

More to come on the Type-R bar rubbing, and my fix. Since I am hoping to correct this. Some how.....
 

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Looks nice. DO you have to get an alignment after replacing these?
 
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