How hard to change the exhaust?

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Is this something I can do without a lift? Just a jack and some stands?

Id like to remove my OEM exhaust and replace with a Taitec this winter.

Ive done oil changes, tranny change, and added TypeR bars myself. Just wondering how this fits in on the difficulty level.

Thanks!
 
If you've exchanged a tranny, than this should be fairly easy. Those bolt could be hard to remove though, depending on age and if previous owners drove in the rain.

You might have to soak it with PB Blaster and maybe heat them up.

It's much easier if you have air tools.

Go to home depot or local auto parts store to buy new bolts and nuts.
 
Did you remove and install a tranny or just exchage the fluids? I think i misunderstood you to mean you removed and installed a tranny.

Wear eye wear protection!

It's not difficult to remove the exhaust, but the bolts can be stubborn and seized in place.

The hangers can be a bit tricky also. For the hangers, go to your Wal-mart or auto parts store to buy a can of silicone spray. Spray them on the rubber hangers holes where the exhuast mounts to. This makes it easier to slid off and on.

If the exhuast lines up well, then you shouldn't have too much trouble installing the new aftermarket exhaust. If not, you might have to figure out ways to make it work.

To be honest, if I were you and the original bolt have never been touch, I would just take it to a shop to remove and put on the new exhuast. It shouldn't cost you more than $50 dollars. Any exhaust place should be able to do this for you. Better to go to an exhuast place than a general mechanic because they have better welding experience if you need them to make an adapter for you. Plus, the stock exhaust is extremely heavy. There is a possiblity for injury if you don't know what your doing and don't expect it.

Watch him do it and let him replace all the stubborn bolts/nuts with new ones. Then if you need to remove the exhuast in the future, then you can attempt a DIY. Your new aftermarket exhuast won't be as heavy to remove and the bolts won't be stubborn to remove.
 
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Its an 05 so Im not too concerned about seized bolts.

And yes, I meant tranny FLUID, not a tranny change :tongue:

My local shop will do it cheap, just thought it would make a nice winter project.
 
Its an 05 so Im not too concerned about seized bolts.

My local shop will do it cheap, just thought it would make a nice winter project.

And it could be a nice winter project but NOT one that you want to be finishing in the spring :biggrin:.
It's only a 2005 and every time you run the car it heats and cools and every time it gets wet it rusts some more.
Pay the few bucks and get it done to avoid the misery of stuck bolts, broken bolts, and the chance of a misaligned aftermarket exhaust.
 
Is this something I can do without a lift? Just a jack and some stands?

Id like to remove my OEM exhaust and replace with a Taitec this winter.

Ive done oil changes, tranny change, and added TypeR bars myself. Just wondering how this fits in on the difficulty level.

Thanks!

It takes longer to jack the car up than change the exhaust... :wink: I wouldn't waste my money paying someone.. :cool:
 
x2 its actually not bad at all. Mines a 91 and my bolts were all rusted and was a pain in the ass. Yours is much newer I would expect it to be alot easier to come off. Its only 6 bolts and a few rubber hangers! Dont pay someone to do it unless you want to pay me! =)
 
it'll takes about an hr or less. did this on my friend's 04 nsx, gtlw.. bolt came out easy, replace HF cat at the sametime.. about an hr work with no power/air tool..would be a lot simpler/quicker with air tools though.
 
Along with everyone else, I agree - it's very simple. First, remove all the bolts (air tools preferred). Once everything is left held up but only the exhaust hangers, start removing those.

At this point, this is where I used the jack as support to hold the exhaust up as I removed the last few of them (which can be a pain in the ass). Once everything is off, lower the exhaust down using the jack and roll out from under the car. Simple as that!!

Note - the OEM exhaust is VERY heavy, much heavier when working in odd angles and trying to hold it up - so support it if at all possible prior to remove the rubber hangers.

When installing the new exhaust, use all new flange bolts and nuts.
 
I too am considering changing out my exhaust this winter. Another Q--I noticed that noone mentioned changing the donut seals ? Does the NSX exhaust not have them or are they just not necessary to replace?
 
Ditto. Are there any gaskets or dough nut type seals that one should order along with new hardware so everything is ready to go once you get the old one off?


I too am considering changing out my exhaust this winter. Another Q--I noticed that noone mentioned changing the donut seals ? Does the NSX exhaust not have them or are they just not necessary to replace?
 
It all depends how rusted your car's exhaust bolts are. When i replaced my exhaust the first time I installed INOX hardware. I have an inspection pit at home and it takes me longer to get my tools ready than to change the exhaust.
 
replace these...

I too am considering changing out my exhaust this winter. Another Q--I noticed that noone mentioned changing the donut seals ? Does the NSX exhaust not have them or are they just not necessary to replace?
Ditto. Are there any gaskets or dough nut type seals that one should order along with new hardware so everything is ready to go once you get the old one off?
I replaced the (2) gaskets where the cats' connect the exhaust. It's likely you/others would need these:

(what I got)

'91-'05 NSX
P/N: 18393-SH3-S00 - GASKET, PRE CHAMBER (52.5MM-53.5MM)
List: ~$10
Discounted: ~$7

I believe there's a Honda V6 equivalent for it, as I got one from my Acura dealer (only 1 in-stock at the time) & I got the other from my Honda dealer. And yes, the Honda one costs less.

There are variations w/ the NSX exhaust-system over the years (namely the cats-to-exhaust flange), so make sure these gaskets are applicable for your model-year.
 
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Anyone have a schematic of the OEM exhaust mounting?

So I would need (potentially) 2 gaskets and 6 bolts?
 
Anyone have a schematic of the OEM exhaust mounting?

So I would need (potentially) 2 gaskets and 6 bolts?

You're really over complicating this. Go under the car, remove the obvious bolts and pull off the exhaust hangers and you're done. No drawings - just look at it.

Seriously - my wife could do this and she doesn't even know how to turn on my air compressor.
 
You're really over complicating this. Go under the car, remove the obvious bolts and pull off the exhaust hangers and you're done. No drawings - just look at it.

Seriously - my wife could do this and she doesn't even know how to turn on my air compressor.

LOL. It's not bad at all, as others have said air tools help loads. I went over to a friends house and did it in about 20-30 minutes. PB Blaster and airtools is the way to go.
 
You're really over complicating this. Go under the car, remove the obvious bolts and pull off the exhaust hangers and you're done. No drawings - just look at it.

Seriously - my wife could do this and she doesn't even know how to turn on my air compressor.

This is so true. just make sure you have the right socket size. I have a cheap set that is i guess both metric and standard (not sure how it is possible) and one size is either too big or too small, dont strip the bolts. But it takes about 30 min, 10 just jacking up the car. Its only 6 bolts and 2 hangers. wd-40 the hangers then start on the bolts and by the time your done the exhause will just slide off.
 
The hardest part besides loostening the rusty bolts is supporting the exhaust while you install the rubber hangers.

Be sure to wear safety goggles so dirt and sand don't fall into your eyes...ask me how I know.
 
Be sure to wear safety goggles so dirt and sand don't fall into your eyes...ask me how I know.


You have dirt and rust under your car? :eek:



:biggrin:
 
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