I have had this problem with many cars and don't really know how to fix it. I can't remember if I had this problem with my NSX or not, but thought it would still apply here too. How the heck do you get the wax build up off of a vinyl, rubber, or plastic strip/piece on a car? I have tried rubbing alcohol, formula 2000, etc. I try to be careful around that stuff, but still somehow end up getting a little on there and it leaves a chalky white residue that doesn't come off. Any tips on how to fix this would be appreciated?
how do you get wax build up off black vinyl, rubber, or plastic?
- Thread starter jlindy
- Start date
I belive 3M makes a solution which removes excess wax in those areas.
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- 20 March 2006
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Mothers makes something called “Back to Black” which is specifically for this purpose. I‘ve been tempted to try it several times, but haven’t as of yet. I have read reviews online about the product and most seem to be positive. I’ve seen it at Pep Boys, Checker, and Autozone, so it’s easy to get a hold of (it’s around $6).
A trick I’ve used that seems to work on small parts like my windshield molding is to use my fingernail to lightly scrap off a small layer of the deteriorating top “skin” of the molding which also removes the white residue. This can be time consuming, but it works.
A trick I’ve used that seems to work on small parts like my windshield molding is to use my fingernail to lightly scrap off a small layer of the deteriorating top “skin” of the molding which also removes the white residue. This can be time consuming, but it works.
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Both of the above mentioned products should work. The best preventitive solution though is refrain from using wax in the first place and switch to a good synthetic polish such as Zaino.
XperiMental said:
I've used Back to Black several years ago and don't remember it taking that off, but it has been a long time so I will try it again. If it were just a smooth piece of rubber, a fingernail would work just fine, but with vinyl it is a textured finish and you would have to destroy the vinyl getting to the wax in the grooves.
svalleynsx said:
Used Zaino for years on lighter and silver cars until I got my black NSX. It's TERRIBLE on dark colors and left a slight cloudy residue which I never noticed on the lighter cars. I did a side by side with a paint cleaner first and then a carnuba wax and it looked 20 times better than Zaino on my black NSX. My car is a dark almost blue looking grey so Zaino is out.
Same issue here.
Black window trim across the top of my front window has taken on that white film. I have tried several chemicals over the last couple weeks. Nothing touched it.
I was actually just out this evening and bought some of the Mothers Back to Black.
Huge improvement!
Not good a new mind you, but worth the $7 I paid for it.
And not sure if its just me or not, but it seemed to work better on the areas that I had not tried other chemicals on first.
Worked good enough that I also did around the back hatch window.
(already had rag in hand, why not)
Black window trim across the top of my front window has taken on that white film. I have tried several chemicals over the last couple weeks. Nothing touched it.
I was actually just out this evening and bought some of the Mothers Back to Black.
Huge improvement!
Not good a new mind you, but worth the $7 I paid for it.
And not sure if its just me or not, but it seemed to work better on the areas that I had not tried other chemicals on first.
Worked good enough that I also did around the back hatch window.
(already had rag in hand, why not)
Some advice, do not use your fingernails or other stiff/abrasive items - you could create gouges and scratches.
I use a product from Griot's Garage. It's a liquid in a squeeze bottle with a sponge on the end. You apply it sparingly, it dissolves the dried on wax, and you wipe it away. If you have bad wax build up, repeat. Then finish it up w/ a "back to black" type product to seal in the black color.
It's a good product and costs $6.99. It's an 8oz bottle, but it goes a long way. I'm still using a bottle from 2yrs ago.
Direct link: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_1000&L2=L2_1005&SKU=11216
I use a product from Griot's Garage. It's a liquid in a squeeze bottle with a sponge on the end. You apply it sparingly, it dissolves the dried on wax, and you wipe it away. If you have bad wax build up, repeat. Then finish it up w/ a "back to black" type product to seal in the black color.
It's a good product and costs $6.99. It's an 8oz bottle, but it goes a long way. I'm still using a bottle from 2yrs ago.
Direct link: http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?L1=L1_1000&L2=L2_1005&SKU=11216
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mickeylex said:
When someone makes a suggestion that has worked for them in the past it bugs me when someone else comes back with a general statement like this. I mentioned that it happened to work on my windshield molding which happens to be a fairly hard plastic. Also, I only mentioned trying a fingernail (not sandpaper, a screwdriver or other “stiff/abrasive items”). As with any suggestion like this, it should be obvious that it should be tried on an inconspicuous area first and using common sense.
Another thing that could be tried is to carefully pressure wash the area using the high pressure setting at a car wash. I’ve found that the high pressure water can get down into the tiny crevices and blast the wax out (stay away from soft rubber parts as it could tear them).
XperiMental said:
You might have missed the word "could" in my statement. No biggie - my response wasn't directed at you, nor meant for you specifically.
Tell you what. The next time you are visiting the SF Bay Area, drop me a PM - coffee is on me. :smile:
Not really a solution, but nonetheless, I would change the type of wax your using. I use P21S or the cheaper (just as good) S100 wax...absolutely my favorite. Goes on rubber, vinyl and etc. with no residue or problems.
"Avoid getting wax or polish on rubber and flat black plastic areas (clean them with a nongloss product), door handles and emblems. If you do get a wax stain on rubber trim, spray it with a mist-and-wipe product and wipe it down with a terry cloth towel. If that doesn't do the trick, this usually works: Microwave some peanut butter and apply it to the stain with a soft toothbrush. Peanut butter's oils dissolve the wax and it's abrasive enough to lift the stain (but it can stick to the roof of your car).
If you get a polish/wax residue around emblems or in crevices, break out the cotton swabs and toothbrushes. It's important that you first wet the area with a mist-and-wipe product such as Meguiar's Quick Detailer. Never brush on a dry surface. "
Courtesy of Popular Mechanics magazine.
It's on page 2.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272211.html?page=1&c=y
Another trick I've learned, is to apply dressing to the rubber areas first, that way the wax won't stain or stick as easily.
If you get a polish/wax residue around emblems or in crevices, break out the cotton swabs and toothbrushes. It's important that you first wet the area with a mist-and-wipe product such as Meguiar's Quick Detailer. Never brush on a dry surface. "
Courtesy of Popular Mechanics magazine.
It's on page 2.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1272211.html?page=1&c=y
Another trick I've learned, is to apply dressing to the rubber areas first, that way the wax won't stain or stick as easily.
There is this company called.... automagic I believe. They are sell alot to car lots and such. On their website, it shows a training vid on how to apply their banana magic car wax. He talks about about applying the rubber dressing before waxing that way the wax is harder to stick to the rubber.
Now I'd just be afraid of smearing that dressing onto the waxex paint though. That makes a kind of a mess I would think..... Well doesn't hurt to try.
Now I'd just be afraid of smearing that dressing onto the waxex paint though. That makes a kind of a mess I would think..... Well doesn't hurt to try.
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