Help identifying parts to order found broken plastic pieces under pedals.

[gkantziper]

I found a very small round piece of yellowed plastic in the pedal box of my '95 the other day. Everything worked so I didn't think much of it. Today I found what looks like the same material and it looks like it may be a "pedal stopper".[h=1]Acura Part No.: 46505-SA5-000[/h]So I want to replace everything that this may be the parts look inexpensive. Fender screw is in the picture for "scale". What are all the part numbers I should order if I want to replace all the little white plastic pieces? Thanks. (I don't know why this is bold/italicized controls are unresponsive.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Look Here:

https://www.acuraautomotiveparts.or.../5-speed-manual-engine/chassis-cat/pedal-scat

I am thinking the "pedal stopper" is the plastic part, #32

HTH,
LarryB

 

[gkantziper]

Look Here:

https://www.acuraautomotiveparts.or.../5-speed-manual-engine/chassis-cat/pedal-scat

I am thinking the "pedal stopper" is the plastic part, #32

HTH,
LarryB

Thanks...so you need 3 for manual gearbox to replace them all?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Based on the picture, I would say 3. At $2.50ea, buy 6!!!!

 

[gkantziper]

Based on the picture, I would say 3. At $2.50ea, buy 6!!!!

Ha! Thanks. Since the originals lasted 24 years I'd probably lose the extras by the time I need them.

 

[NSX_n00b]

Ha! Thanks. Since the originals lasted 24 years I'd probably lose the extras by the time I need them.

Throw the extras in your glovebox or center console that way if one breaks while you're out you won't be stranded.

 

[gkantziper]

Throw the extras in your glovebox or center console that way if one breaks while you're out you won't be stranded.

Good idea. Anybody every changed these? Are they hard to replace? NSX_n00b I noticed your signature w/your Alfa. I will change mine to show my '86 Graduate!

 

[Old Guy]

Difficulty in replacement depends on which button has dropped out. The clutch pedal has two switches and two buttons. The brake pedal has one switch and button.

The button and switch mounted at the top of the clutch pedal is for the starter interlock. It is generally regarded as an absolute pain to replace because of accessibility. Some owners by-pass the interlock rather than attempt to replace the button. If the interlock button drops out it will leave you with an inability to start the car.

If the brake switch button drops out the most immediate effect is that the brake lights will stay on killing your battery. Side effects are that your idle control system in the ECU may become confused.

The lower clutch switch button is for the cruise control and I think also the ECU idle control.

If you can start the car and the brake lights are not on (or the battery is not dead because the brake lights drained the battery) then it is probably the lower clutch switch button that dropped out. This is probably the easiest one to replace.

You might want to consider replacing all 3 buttons. If one has dropped out because it aged and became brittle then the others are likely going to follow. If the upper clutch switch button drops out it will leave you stranded (unless you have a remote starter switch) and replacement is not something that you want to attempt at night in a restaurant parking lot.

 

[gkantziper]

Difficulty in replacement depends on which button has dropped out. The clutch pedal has two switches and two buttons. The brake pedal has one switch and button.

The button and switch mounted at the top of the clutch pedal is for the starter interlock. It is generally regarded as an absolute pain to replace because of accessibility. Some owners by-pass the interlock rather than attempt to replace the button. If the interlock button drops out it will leave you with an inability to start the car.

If the brake switch button drops out the most immediate effect is that the brake lights will stay on killing your battery. Side effects are that your idle control system in the ECU may become confused.

The lower clutch switch button is for the cruise control and I think also the ECU idle control.

If you can start the car and the brake lights are not on (or the battery is not dead because the brake lights drained the battery) then it is probably the lower clutch switch button that dropped out. This is probably the easiest one to replace.

You might want to consider replacing all 3 buttons. If one has dropped out because it aged and became brittle then the others are likely going to follow. If the upper clutch switch button drops out it will leave you stranded (unless you have a remote starter switch) and replacement is not something that you want to attempt at night in a restaurant parking lot.

Many thanks for the excellent explaination. I'll "get on my back" when the parts arrive later in the week.

 

[docjohn]

you will need to channel your inner cirque-de-soleil..

 

[Stephen@NCAutoUSA]

you will need to channel your inner cirque-de-soleil..

Agree, pita. Next time I’m paying a small child to do it.

 

[Hass]

Last post

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/165411-Clutch-safety-switch-Take-my-advice!

 

[goldNSX]

Based on the picture, I would say 3. At $2.50ea, buy 6!!!!

The picture says 4 (four). Why 6?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

The picture says 4 (four). Why 6?

The pic covers both Automatic and Manual trans, for manual it appears to be 3, so I suggested doubling it..

 

[goldNSX]

Is there a risk of damage while mounting them?

 

[Miner]

Is there a risk of damage while mounting them?

I replaced the one for the brake light switch 8-9 years ago, it is easy and no risk of damage as the pedal has to be pressed only an inch or 2 to get to where the button goes.
I replaced the one for the clutch pedal up (cruise control) a couple of weeks ago and that was harder as the switch plunger is longer and it is harder to depress the clutch pedal down while inserting the button. Could potentially damage the switch plunger (maybe).

As noted, the hardest part is twisting, bending and reaching into the space under the dash.

 

[docjohn]

Larry is the best at this..........he uses a step stool..........:tongue:

 

[goldNSX]

For the clutch pedal remaining down you could open the bleeder valve...
I'm going to order some of them...
Bloddy Honda has forbidden US dealers to send parts outside of the us once again...

 

[gkantziper]

I just crawled in there to see which one was broken and it was the clutch lower which was pretty easy to replace. I used a small scrap 2x4 to push the clutch down with one hand and inserted the part with the other. The old plastic part was completely gone. I had found 2-3 pieces on the floor over the past 3 weeks. The plunger seated the new part. I didn't revisit this thread until after I'd done it so I didn't even look for the upper one that must still be there because everything is working properly. I hadn't tried the cruise control before the repair, but I guess it wasn't working? I have spares in the glove box for when the others break. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Old Guy]

Your car is 23 years old. It sent you a very nice early warning because it was the non-critical pedal button that dropped out. Having the spares on hand is good; but, depending on the circumstances failure of either of the other two may leave you high and dry and you definitely will not be doing the upper clutch button replacement in the restaurant parking lot. If the one button was tired and brittle the other two are probably equally brittle. Perhaps make a plan to do the replacement as a preventative maintenance activity on some nice sunny afternoon when the sun is warming your back muscles so they don't go into spasm:smile:.

There is a relatively easy work around for starting the car if the upper clutch interlock button drops out. The sanitary way would involve a proper remote starter switch. The cheap / convenient way involves storing a coil of about 2 m of #12 wire with exposed ends in your trunk to use as a jumper wire. With the ignition key in the run position you can use the jumper wire to jump from the big jump start terminal in the engine main relay / fuse box to the little start terminal on the starter motor. This will cause the starter motor to crank and if everything else is fine the engine will start up. At the risk of being obvious the gear box must be in neutral when you do this otherwise very bad things can happen. Using the jumper wire does require a little dexterity and timing and there will some sparking (should be very small). If you ask 'jump start terminal in the relay box?' or 'where is the starter motor terminal?' then this is not a contingency plan that you should be entertaining.

 

[alum04org]

If you ask 'jump start terminal in the relay box?' or 'where is the starter motor terminal?' then this is not a contingency plan that you should be entertaining.

:wink: Think this was directed at me!?!? :smile:

Truly amazing stuff you write - you are a tremendous asset to this forum so don't ever even think about going away.

 

[Old Guy]

:wink: Think this was directed at me!?!? :smile:

Truly amazing stuff you write - you are a tremendous asset to this forum so don't ever even think about going away.

Not at all :smile:.

I am mindful that these posts may be read by owners with highly variable levels of experience. I am also an ex electrical engineer so looking at a schematic and figuring out a less conventional work around is pretty much like drinking beer on the deck on a sunny day. Comes pretty naturally to me; but, may not be so obvious to others what is going on so I always feel obliged to provide a little cautionary advice. A little bit like the warning message that would flash on the bottom of the TV screen during the 'little blue pill' adds which included the 'may cause death' warning.

 

[Miner]

Not at all :smile:.

I am mindful that these posts may be read by owners with highly variable levels of experience. I am also an ex electrical engineer so looking at a schematic and figuring out a less conventional work around is pretty much like drinking beer on the deck on a sunny day. Comes pretty naturally to me; but, may not be so obvious to others what is going on so I always feel obliged to provide a little cautionary advice. A little bit like the warning message that would flash on the bottom of the TV screen during the 'little blue pill' adds which included the 'may cause death' warning.

Old Guy,
How do you become an ex EE? Did you cross over to ME?

Miner

 

[Old Guy]

Old Guy,
How do you become an ex EE? Did you cross over to ME?

Miner

Nope, didn't to the switch from electron flow to fluid flow.

I guess I am still an Electrical Engineer; but, I ceased to practise as a Electrical Engineer a few years ago. In Canada, the title Prof. Eng. is pretty tightly regulated. Aside from the educational requirements for admission to being a Prof Eng there are professional practise requirements, requirements for on-going development and if you have your own shingle a license to consult and errors and omissions insurance, all of it significant $ particularly, if you only want to work a little bit. When I ceased professional practise I hired myself out as an industry 'savant' rather than an engineer. Saved a lot of money. Just means that I don't do anything that looks like design work.

In Saskatchewan, you can switch your designation to Prof Eng Retired. But you have to pay for that and that is just eating into beer money.

 

[Miner]

Interesting.

When I graduated, BSME, I had passed my EIT, then got a job with the DoD, and never pursed my PE. We don’t regulate (or require) PE in the states very well. I have friends who are CPAs and in their field, passing the exam was like the last step in becoming an accountant. For me, and a good bit of my colleagues, it was never a thought. As a friend once said the only thing a PE can do that I can’t is get sued. Not saying that is right, but it seems to be fairly accurate down here.