I finally found what was causing my nsx not to start sometime. After 4 hrs of seaching what was with the car, It was the little Plug next to the starter that was loose. I snapped it back in, and the car started right up but now I have another problem. While driving, and letting off the gas and clutch and putting the car to neutral, the RPM drop all the way to zero and car shuts off. I have already replace the main relay in the back next to the ecu and the ignition switch last week. I ck all the wires and battery terminal to make sure everything is tight. The battery is brand new. My car is a 2000 with 59000 miles. Can someone shine in on this problem. I'm tired of finding problem after problem with the car not starting and losing power while driving.
Help!!! Another freaken problem!!!!
- Thread starter Bluebeast
- Start date
Will the engine idle? If the engine dies at idle but will keep running if you continually press the accellerator pedal you have a fuel issue. Could be fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pump resistor. We really need more info on what is going on 
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shawn110975
Suspended
I agree it maybe items that should have been replaced years ago but they never did,
if its your fuel pump that a hard long job, need to drop the sub frame
and drop the gas tank just to get at the fuel pump.
are you getting any errors from OBD2 go get a scanner and if there is a prob it may pop some codes that may not make the check eng light come on.
worth a shot.
if its your fuel pump that a hard long job, need to drop the sub frame
and drop the gas tank just to get at the fuel pump.
are you getting any errors from OBD2 go get a scanner and if there is a prob it may pop some codes that may not make the check eng light come on.
worth a shot.
I haven't change the fuel pump or filter yet. The car idles fine. First when I had the problem I change out the main relay and thought that it solve the issue and now it's back but after driving the car for a good 10 min, it stop. So I'm not sure if the fuel pump, filter or resistor would cause that. I will definitely look into it. Any other solution?
Mine did something similar to yours at stop signs it was almost die. I took off complete air intake filter assembly and sprayed break cleaner into the throttle body to remove built up gunk
I would check the following simple stuff (being no expert though)
*Check battery voltage with engine both off and on
Should read about 12-13 volts off and 14-15 volts on. If low, you have a problem with the charger system.
*Fuel pressure
Use a fuel pressure gauge attached to your fuel filter and check pressure according to the manual. Check the fuel pressure regulator at the same time, as per manual. If low, replace fuel filter first. If that doesn't help, I would replace the fuel pump. Still low, check fuel lines for clogging and that the wirings are ok for the fuel system. Oh, and send those injectors away for a cleaning service if all else fails (replace o-rings!)
*Clean throttle body
The throttle body is easily removed. Clean with throttle body cleaner (or like I, with plain engine degreaser). Also reach in into the intake and check for gunk there also. Check the air filter. If you have an aftermarket filter, clean it and reoil if dirty.
*Check ignition coils and spark plugs
Probably not the coils, but easy check when taking out the plugs. They should not be corroded. Do a compression test also while spark plugs are out. Don't forget to remove the "clock" fuse while doing that.
Good luck, probably an easy fix.
*Check battery voltage with engine both off and on
Should read about 12-13 volts off and 14-15 volts on. If low, you have a problem with the charger system.
*Fuel pressure
Use a fuel pressure gauge attached to your fuel filter and check pressure according to the manual. Check the fuel pressure regulator at the same time, as per manual. If low, replace fuel filter first. If that doesn't help, I would replace the fuel pump. Still low, check fuel lines for clogging and that the wirings are ok for the fuel system. Oh, and send those injectors away for a cleaning service if all else fails (replace o-rings!)
*Clean throttle body
The throttle body is easily removed. Clean with throttle body cleaner (or like I, with plain engine degreaser). Also reach in into the intake and check for gunk there also. Check the air filter. If you have an aftermarket filter, clean it and reoil if dirty.
*Check ignition coils and spark plugs
Probably not the coils, but easy check when taking out the plugs. They should not be corroded. Do a compression test also while spark plugs are out. Don't forget to remove the "clock" fuse while doing that.
Good luck, probably an easy fix.
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I replace the spark plugs with oem a month ago. The coils are fine and not corroded. The battery is at operating voltage. Going to spray some TB cleaner tomorrow. I have not ck fuel filter yet or fuel pump, so I'm going to take a look at that. Where's is fuse at to reset the clock and what does that do?
The "clock" fuse is also the fuse for the ECU. Not powering the ECU means no trigger signal for the fuel pump, ergo, no fuel spraying into the cylinders when you do a compression test. It's in the fuse box up in the front, passenger side. It's a 7.5 amp one. Identify it using the lid. It also resets the ECU error codes.
Spray cleaner and wipe off using a lint free cloth. I think the TB and intake manifold gunk up quicker for us using aftermarket filter with oil.
So this morning after spray throttle body cleaning and taking out fuse 7 to reset the ecu, a check engine light came on. I ran the code and it says p1243 Malfunction control fuel air metering. I have no clue what that is. After resetting the code car runs and sound fine. Any suggestion? And how do u use a multi meter tester to check voltage for the fuel pump relay and resistor?
The code was probably a fluke due to cleaning the throttle body. Is it still stalling?
P1243 is Throttle Position Insufficient, so first thing is to check ALL connections on the TB, and make sure you check the lower round connector. On a 2000, I think it is down to the front side of the throttle body(if you are looking at the TB it is on the left side.
If you go here, you can see the connector, right next to item #1 in the pic:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...DY+(2)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
You mention the car runs fine now. Is the idle dropping cured?
BTW, most likely the cause of this is the idle circiut of the throttle body that is dirty. I did an article on cleaning the TB in NSXDriver magazine years ago. It was republished recently in our special DIY issue.
HTH,
LarryB
If you go here, you can see the connector, right next to item #1 in the pic:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...DY+(2)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
You mention the car runs fine now. Is the idle dropping cured?
BTW, most likely the cause of this is the idle circiut of the throttle body that is dirty. I did an article on cleaning the TB in NSXDriver magazine years ago. It was republished recently in our special DIY issue.
HTH,
LarryB
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