Headers, CV Boots, Oil Pan Gasket Sequencing

[NSX-Files]

For my 91, I have bought some new performance and maintenance items I plan to install, hopefully this weekend. They include:

Comptech headers
2 new manifold gaskets and 4 exhaust pipe donut crush gaskets
4 new CV Boot Kits
3 qts. Honda White Cap MTF
20mm transmission fill crush washer and o-ring for trans filter plug
Oil Pan gasket
Spool Valve filter/gaskets and o-rings
Valve head cover gaskets (except the 12 washer/grommets on top)
Honda 15400-PL2-004 Oil filter and 14mm crush washer
Mobil1 10W30

My question: Is there a recommended sequence I should follow to do all these things at once? I know some of these are related and it's recommended or necessary to do one item if you're doing the other (ex. changing trans fluid with the left CV boot change). Also, some things necessarily have to be removed in order to do a particular job (ex. removing headers and draining the oil to replace the oil pan gasket).

So I'm trying to knock it all out in one shot to minimize the downtime the car spends up on jack stands. I figure at least some of you have done all these jobs and might suggest a sequence in which to attack it all.

Thanks in advance!
David

 

[OLDMNSX]

David,
I would say:
1. Drain the engine and trans oil.
2. Remove the exhaust system.
3. Remove the CV axels.
4. Remove the Oil Pan.
Reinstall in reverse order.

You may want to consider replacing the trans output seals while you have the CV axels off. You will be real lucky if you get this all done on a weekend, or maybe I'm just SLOW.

Leave the valve covers and spool valve gaskets for another weekend. These would be easier from the top side with the car sitting on the tires and wheels.

Brad

 

[Racerxjling]

I just did the CV boots...no need to remove the exhaust system for the headers nor the oil pan gasket. Just jack the car up as high as possible so u can get the longer pry bars in there to nudge out the axle shafts. Doing all of this on jackstands..you have a better back than me and more patience. I did mine on a lift and that was tough. Good luck.

Jeff

 

[NSX-Files]

David,
I would say:
1. Drain the engine and trans oil.
2. Remove the exhaust system.
3. Remove the CV axels.
4. Remove the Oil Pan.
Reinstall in reverse order.

You may want to consider replacing the trans output seals while you have the CV axels off. You will be real lucky if you get this all done on a weekend, or maybe I'm just SLOW.

Leave the valve covers and spool valve gaskets for another weekend. These would be easier from the top side with the car sitting on the tires and wheels.

Brad

I think I agree with you on the order and also saving the spool valve and valve cover gaskets for another day. I did already decide to not do the valve covers yet since they are hardly seeping. I think the spool and oil pan gaskets are the real sources of the burnt oil smell I sometimes get after a while.

I was wondering though if access to the spool valves would be made easier from the bottom. I haven't looked at the manual on this yet, and I only looked briefly at them to notice some oil seepage around them, but I just noticed there seemed be be a lot of stuff in the way when looking at them from above.

I didn't order trans output seals. My car has 65k miles and no evidence of any trans leaks. How likely is it I'll need to change those seals?

 

[NSX-Files]

I just did the CV boots...no need to remove the exhaust system for the headers nor the oil pan gasket. Just jack the car up as high as possible so u can get the longer pry bars in there to nudge out the axle shafts. Doing all of this on jackstands..you have a better back than me and more patience. I did mine on a lift and that was tough. Good luck.

Jeff

Believe me, I'd use a lift if I had one. I have a creeper, but I know this job means a long time on my back.

Is it super difficult to work on the front exhaust manifold and breaking the CV axles loose? What's the angle relative to the ground that the pry bars are inserted, i.e., does the pry bar go in horizontally or do I need a large clearance off the ground to lever the pry bar vertically?

I could drive the car 95 miles to my brother-in-law's auto repair shop and use one of his lifts. But I'd probably have to make multiple trips back and forth leaving my car down there and possibly tying up one of his lifts while I complete the job. I know it's going to take a long time to do the work, and I'd like to be able to do it at home with my own tools on my own time schedule.

What do you guys think?

 

[OLDMNSX]

All I use is four jack stands to do all the work on my car. I wouldn't drive 5 miles to use a lift let alone 95 miles. Get a scrap piece of carpet pad from any carpet store and then put clean cardboard over it and get under the car and get after it.

Brad