Has anyone here had a leaking abs high pressure hose?

Jinks · 13 April 2016

As the title stats, I have an abs pump that always runs and never builds pressure. When you stop running the pump you can hear pressure leaking from what sounds like the high pressure hose which couples the pump and the modulator. It doesn't quite sound like the hissing noise is coming from the accumulator I hope. That part is stupid expensive!
I have removed the high pressure hose, which looks like a fuel line, it has banjo fittings. It doesn't look damaged. I just ordered another 1 to try it. Only 46 bucks shipped.
Have any of you experienced a leak on this hose? Is it know to fail with age? Has anyone with a leaking accumulator experienced a hissing noise while pump runs?
Btw, Joe's abs kit aka @Scrapdog2grand is freaking awesome!A high quality professional way of fully bleeding the abs. It makes running the pump and energizing the solenoids freaking easy. Very happy I got his kit.
I just have to find this abs leak now. Joe, maybe you have some advice?

robbiedawg · 13 April 2016

just wanted to note that the ABS high pressure hose is on the maintenance schedule, to be replaced every 48 months or 60k miles. i did mine when i had the old ABS system, not sure if it carried over to the new year 2000+ system when i upgraded to that. reading threads like this makes me glad i upgraded-an expensive mod to be sure,but one well worth it i think.

Scrapdog2grand · 13 April 2016

That hose is not the problem, dont feel bad though it is a serviceable item in the owners manual, and most likely well past its recommended replacement.

When pressurizing the system, look into the reservoir. it sounds like fluid is bleeding past a solenoid and it will be seen at the bottom of the the screen at the return. You should also see the fluid rise slightly and pressure drops.
@warrenw has experience tearing these accumulators down for rebuild, he should be able to tell you if the pressure loss could possible be something else. He has a very reasonably priced oring kit to rebuild the modulator. It would be a bit involved, but you can do it.

Glad you like the harness.

Jinks · 13 April 2016

Scrapdog2grand said:
That hose is not the problem, dont feel bad though it is a serviceable item in the owners manual, and most likely well past its recommended replacement.

When pressurizing the system, look into the reservoir. it sounds like fluid is bleeding past a solenoid and it will be seen at the bottom of the the screen at the return. You should also see the fluid rise slightly and pressure drops.
@warrenw has experience tearing these accumulators down for rebuild, he should be able to tell you if the pressure loss could possible be something else. He has a very reasonably priced oring kit to rebuild the modulator. It would be a bit involved, but you can it.

Glad you like the harness.

When I activate the pump, fluid is slightly drawn from the reservoir then it stops. After that, when I stop running the pump I hear the pressure bleeding somewhere away from the modulator. I have ran the pump and exercised the solenoids. It seems the pump can hold just a bit of pressure because when I activate any 1 of 4 solenoids, the fluid returns to the reservoir. But is just cannot hold pressure past a few psi I guess. I am gonna give the pump hose replacement a go but if that doesn't cure it, I guess I am looking at accumulator replacement?
Also, thanks for the response. These abs modules are a PITA but your kit makes it effortless. Just gotta find this bug and kill it.

asylum · 13 April 2016

I agree with Scrapdog2grand. You have no fluid loss. Check if one of the solenoid is not making the fluid leak from the accumulator to the reservoir when it is not activated. Activate the pump during 10-20s. The level in the reservoir will decrease a little bit. Then check after some minutes if it raised again. A leak like that can be caused by a worn o-ring or gasket but also from a debris.

Kaz-kzukNA1 · 13 April 2016

Hi, Jinks.

I’m afraid if the high pressure hose was leaking, it would be to the outside world and makes the modulator area wet so very unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
It’s just straight through hose reinforced for high pressure usage and no one-way valve or any other mechanism inside the hose.

Since you are going to replace the hose, while waiting, why not first check your ABS pump?
I have seen several classic ABS with failed pump causing the same issue as yours.
I’m afraid this doesn’t mean that you don’t have any other issues such as punctured accumulator, leaky solenoid, etc.

If you have the ABS T-wrench, the pump can be tested without making too much mess but if you don’t have one and since you have already removed the high pressure hose, it still can be done but could get quite messy so be prepared.

The ABS pumping action is established by the back and forth movement of the spring loaded plunger operated by the eccentric bearing at the end of the motor shaft.

If you have ever trapped the air in the feed hose (low pressure side) of the ABS pump, you may have difficulty in sending the fluid down to the pump due to brake fluid having higher viscosity than the water so make sure to prime the inlet (feed) side by pinching and releasing the feed hose with your finger many times to bleed the air from there.

Then, cover the exit of the ABS pump with some shop towel but you want to be able to see how much and how fast the fluid is pumped out from the pump body so be creative.

With enough fluid in the reservoir and the air bled from the feed hose, operate the ABS pump for about 5 – 10sec. You can operate it much longer but it could get really messy if you are not prepared.
You should be able to see the fluid splashing out from the exit port.

Next, if you can reach, place your finger over the exit port and operate the pump for a few second. Again, be prepared as it will shoot the fluid in the air. This is to check whether it can generate good pressure through the pump.

If you see very weak stream, not much fluid passing though the pump or if you can’t feel strong pressure build up at your finger, I’m afraid your pump is dead or too weak and unless you can find an used one, it could cost you a lot for a new pump. Personally, not worth it as the same issue will come back again in the future.

The grease at the pump motor gear mechanism is known to dry out and make that annoying squeaking/rattling noise and probably worn out.

Again, this only means that the ABS pump was part of the cause of your issue and you may still have other issues such as the leaky solenoid, punctured accumulator, etc.

Speaking of leaky solenoid, broadly speaking, there are two different modes and one could be fixed by using the overhaul o-ring kit from member ‘warrenw’ but it won’t do anything to the other leaky mode that can only be improved by flushing the solenoid.

For the same reason, flushing the solenoid can’t fix anything if the high pressure fluid is leaking from the tiny o-ring at the narrow tube/port at the bottom side (inlet solenoid) of the solenoid where the high pressure fluid enters the solenoid body. This will result in internal leakage and the high pressure fluid will slowly seep back to the reservoir.

Flushing has no effect if the fluid is leaking from the larger diameter o-ring at the lower body of the solenoid where you can find lots of debris, corrosion or even the dead bug….
This will result in external leakage when ABS was triggered and you need to be bit careful not to confuse yourself with the leakage caused by the overflow from the reservoir after activating the ABS while you were driving.

By the way, flushing the solenoid using the danoland method is great but please note that it can only flush part of the system and not the ABS piston side.
From this point of view, exercising the ABS by slamming on the brake pedal while driving over the gravel path is much better but not long enough.

I’ll touch on this probably in different thread when I have bit more time.

Kaz

Scrapdog2grand · 14 April 2016

Good deal, I was Hoping Kaz would chime in, figured he probably had a lot of good info, and always does a great job in breaking things down.

You heard Kaz mention the Accumulator posibly having a puncture. The Accumulator has a bladder inside and on one side of the bladder is the pressurized brake fluid, on the other side of the bladder is Nitrogen.
As the brake fluid in the accumulator is pressurized by the pump, the nitrogen is compressed. If the bladder is punctured and the nitrogen gone, the system cannot pressurize since you cannot compress a liquid.

Jinks · 14 April 2016

Kaz-kzukNA1 said:
Hi, Jinks.

I’m afraid if the high pressure hose was leaking, it would be to the outside world and makes the modulator area wet so very unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
It’s just straight through hose reinforced for high pressure usage and no one-way valve or any other mechanism inside the hose.

Since you are going to replace the hose, while waiting, why not first check your ABS pump?
I have seen several classic ABS with failed pump causing the same issue as yours.
I’m afraid this doesn’t mean that you don’t have any other issues such as punctured accumulator, leaky solenoid, etc.

If you have the ABS T-wrench, the pump can be tested without making too much mess but if you don’t have one and since you have already removed the high pressure hose, it still can be done but could get quite messy so be prepared.

The ABS pumping action is established by the back and forth movement of the spring loaded plunger operated by the eccentric bearing at the end of the motor shaft.

If you have ever trapped the air in the feed hose (low pressure side) of the ABS pump, you may have difficulty in sending the fluid down to the pump due to brake fluid having higher viscosity than the water so make sure to prime the inlet (feed) side by pinching and releasing the feed hose with your finger many times to bleed the air from there.

Then, cover the exit of the ABS pump with some shop towel but you want to be able to see how much and how fast the fluid is pumped out from the pump body so be creative.

With enough fluid in the reservoir and the air bled from the feed hose, operate the ABS pump for about 5 – 10sec. You can operate it much longer but it could get really messy if you are not prepared.
You should be able to see the fluid splashing out from the exit port.

Next, if you can reach, place your finger over the exit port and operate the pump for a few second. Again, be prepared as it will shoot the fluid in the air. This is to check whether it can generate good pressure through the pump.

If you see very weak stream, not much fluid passing though the pump or if you can’t feel strong pressure build up at your finger, I’m afraid your pump is dead or too weak and unless you can find an used one, it could cost you a lot for a new pump. Personally, not worth it as the same issue will come back again in the future.

The grease at the pump motor gear mechanism is known to dry out and make that annoying squeaking/rattling noise and probably worn out.

Again, this only means that the ABS pump was part of the cause of your issue and you may still have other issues such as the leaky solenoid, punctured accumulator, etc.

Speaking of leaky solenoid, broadly speaking, there are two different modes and one could be fixed by using the overhaul o-ring kit from member ‘warrenw’ but it won’t do anything to the other leaky mode that can only be improved by flushing the solenoid.

For the same reason, flushing the solenoid can’t fix anything if the high pressure fluid is leaking from the tiny o-ring at the narrow tube/port at the bottom side (inlet solenoid) of the solenoid where the high pressure fluid enters the solenoid body. This will result in internal leakage and the high pressure fluid will slowly seep back to the reservoir.

Flushing has no effect if the fluid is leaking from the larger diameter o-ring at the lower body of the solenoid where you can find lots of debris, corrosion or even the dead bug….
This will result in external leakage when ABS was triggered and you need to be bit careful not to confuse yourself with the leakage caused by the overflow from the reservoir after activating the ABS while you were driving.

By the way, flushing the solenoid using the danoland method is great but please note that it can only flush part of the system and not the ABS piston side.
From this point of view, exercising the ABS by slamming on the brake pedal while driving over the gravel path is much better but not long enough.

I’ll touch on this probably in different thread when I have bit more time.

Kaz

Thanks for the awesome info Kaz. I will test more when time permits.

- - - Updated - - -

Kaz-kzukNA1 said:
Hi, Jinks.

I’m afraid if the high pressure hose was leaking, it would be to the outside world and makes the modulator area wet so very unlikely to be the cause of your issue.
It’s just straight through hose reinforced for high pressure usage and no one-way valve or any other mechanism inside the hose.

Since you are going to replace the hose, while waiting, why not first check your ABS pump?
I have seen several classic ABS with failed pump causing the same issue as yours.
I’m afraid this doesn’t mean that you don’t have any other issues such as punctured accumulator, leaky solenoid, etc.

If you have the ABS T-wrench, the pump can be tested without making too much mess but if you don’t have one and since you have already removed the high pressure hose, it still can be done but could get quite messy so be prepared.

The ABS pumping action is established by the back and forth movement of the spring loaded plunger operated by the eccentric bearing at the end of the motor shaft.

If you have ever trapped the air in the feed hose (low pressure side) of the ABS pump, you may have difficulty in sending the fluid down to the pump due to brake fluid having higher viscosity than the water so make sure to prime the inlet (feed) side by pinching and releasing the feed hose with your finger many times to bleed the air from there.

Then, cover the exit of the ABS pump with some shop towel but you want to be able to see how much and how fast the fluid is pumped out from the pump body so be creative.

With enough fluid in the reservoir and the air bled from the feed hose, operate the ABS pump for about 5 – 10sec. You can operate it much longer but it could get really messy if you are not prepared.
You should be able to see the fluid splashing out from the exit port.

Next, if you can reach, place your finger over the exit port and operate the pump for a few second. Again, be prepared as it will shoot the fluid in the air. This is to check whether it can generate good pressure through the pump.

If you see very weak stream, not much fluid passing though the pump or if you can’t feel strong pressure build up at your finger, I’m afraid your pump is dead or too weak and unless you can find an used one, it could cost you a lot for a new pump. Personally, not worth it as the same issue will come back again in the future.

The grease at the pump motor gear mechanism is known to dry out and make that annoying squeaking/rattling noise and probably worn out.

Again, this only means that the ABS pump was part of the cause of your issue and you may still have other issues such as the leaky solenoid, punctured accumulator, etc.

Speaking of leaky solenoid, broadly speaking, there are two different modes and one could be fixed by using the overhaul o-ring kit from member ‘warrenw’ but it won’t do anything to the other leaky mode that can only be improved by flushing the solenoid.

For the same reason, flushing the solenoid can’t fix anything if the high pressure fluid is leaking from the tiny o-ring at the narrow tube/port at the bottom side (inlet solenoid) of the solenoid where the high pressure fluid enters the solenoid body. This will result in internal leakage and the high pressure fluid will slowly seep back to the reservoir.

Flushing has no effect if the fluid is leaking from the larger diameter o-ring at the lower body of the solenoid where you can find lots of debris, corrosion or even the dead bug….
This will result in external leakage when ABS was triggered and you need to be bit careful not to confuse yourself with the leakage caused by the overflow from the reservoir after activating the ABS while you were driving.

By the way, flushing the solenoid using the danoland method is great but please note that it can only flush part of the system and not the ABS piston side.
From this point of view, exercising the ABS by slamming on the brake pedal while driving over the gravel path is much better but not long enough.

I’ll touch on this probably in different thread when I have bit more time.

Kaz

Also, I have the T wrench so Can you give me a step by step test with that?

Kaz-kzukNA1 · 17 April 2016

Hi, Jinks.

If you have the ABS T-wrench, that makes the test procedure much easier.
First, you need to re-connect the high pressure hose that you removed or install the new one.
I do this test on all ABS pump if it takes more than 30sec before the pump starts slowing down or the pump noise sounded differently from others.

1. Please make sure that there is no air lock in the feed (low pressure) hose by pinching and releasing it many times with your finger.
2. Fill up the ABS reservoir to max line or somewhere you can get good reference level.
3. Using the ABS T-wrench, open the ABS bleeder 90 – 180deg.
4. Once there is no more fluid coming up the T-wrench body, empty it if you recovered more than 100cc. If only small amount recovered (ie., not much high pressure fluid left inside the accumulator), just move to the next procedure.
5. Place the T-wrench back on the ABS bleeder and keep the bleeder open at 90 – 180deg as before. Make sure to hold the T-wrench dead vertical/90deg against the ground. Otherwise, the fluid will be running down on the floor at the next procedure.
6. Activate the ABS pump by applying the battery power.
7. Monitor the fluid level of the ABS reservoir. If your ABS pump is healthy, you can pump out the fluid level from max to min line within 10 – 15sec.

If the fluid level doesn’t change or it only slowly drops within the above 15sec, you either have air lock/debris in the feed hose or the ABS pump is worn or dead.

Please note that the ABS bleeder is right on top of the ABS pump exit port.
Therefore, regardless of whether you have other issues such as punctured accumulator, leaky or stuck closed solenoids, the above test result won’t be affected and it purely tests the ABS pump operation.

Kaz

Jinks · 17 April 2016

Kaz-kzukNA1 said:
Hi, Jinks.

If you have the ABS T-wrench, that makes the test procedure much easier.
First, you need to re-connect the high pressure hose that you removed or install the new one.
I do this test on all ABS pump if it takes more than 30sec before the pump starts slowing down or the pump noise sounded differently from others.

1. Please make sure that there is no air lock in the feed (low pressure) hose by pinching and releasing it many times with your finger.
2. Fill up the ABS reservoir to max line or somewhere you can get good reference level.
3. Using the ABS T-wrench, open the ABS bleeder 90 – 180deg.
4. Once there is no more fluid coming up the T-wrench body, empty it if you recovered more than 100cc. If only small amount recovered (ie., not much high pressure fluid left inside the accumulator), just move to the next procedure.
5. Place the T-wrench back on the ABS bleeder and keep the bleeder open at 90 – 180deg as before. Make sure to hold the T-wrench dead vertical/90deg against the ground. Otherwise, the fluid will be running down on the floor at the next procedure.
6. Activate the ABS pump by applying the battery power.
7. Monitor the fluid level of the ABS reservoir. If your ABS pump is healthy, you can pump out the fluid level from max to min line within 10 – 15sec.

If the fluid level doesn’t change or it only slowly drops within the above 15sec, you either have air lock/debris in the feed hose or the ABS pump is worn or dead.

Please note that the ABS bleeder is right on top of the ABS pump exit port.
Therefore, regardless of whether you have other issues such as punctured accumulator, leaky or stuck closed solenoids, the above test result won’t be affected and it purely tests the ABS pump operation.

Kaz

Thank you. I will give it a try.

Jinks · 19 April 2016

Hey Kaz,
I tested the pump after I installed the new high pressure line. The pump didn't run the reservoir down in 15 seconds but it did fill the T-wrench with 100 ml in about 20 seconds or so. However, there is now foaming in the abs reservoir which I did not have before. So that would most likely lead to a stuck solenoid?

cmthomson · 19 April 2016

Jinks said:
Hey Kaz,
However, there is now foaming in the abs reservoir which I did not have before. So that would most likely lead to a stuck solenoid?

Or overfilling. A very old posting here called this a "brake shake".

Kaz-kzukNA1 · 22 April 2016

Hi, Jinks.
So, at least your ABS pump is functioning although it sounded bit tired.

Regarding the forming in the ABS reservoir.
I presume you closed the ABS bleeder and now tried pressurizing the accumulator that you failed in the OP.

Did you see the bubble coming out from the return port that is sticking out inside the meshed filter while you were running the ABS Pump?

Did you see the fluid level dropping while you are running the ABS pump even with the foam coming out of the return port?

Does the fluid level stay lower than the initial level when you started running the ABS pump?

These will help in understanding the level of leakage you have.
It could be big leakage from one solenoid or small leakage from multiple solenoids or could be leaking from the small o-ring at the inlet port at the bottom of the solenoid body.

Depending on the condition, you need to change the way you flush the system and flushing won't help at all for some type of the leakage modes from the o-ring.

Kaz

Jinks · 22 April 2016

Yes Kaz,
The foam comes from the return port on the reservoir. The fluid level does drop some while doing this. Plus I agree that my pump is a lil tired. I have [MENTION=31107]Scrapdog2grand[/MENTION] willing to send me more tools to flush the solenoids another way. I think I may take him up on this.
But some detailed info would be great on how to. It seems a lot of people here don't want to spend close to 3 grand to swap out to a newer later model unit so I'm sure this thread will help others as well as myself.
Thanks again,
AJ

Kaz-kzukNA1 said:
Hi, Jinks.
So, at least your ABS pump is functioning although it sounded bit tired.

Regarding the forming in the ABS reservoir.
I presume you closed the ABS bleeder and now tried pressurizing the accumulator that you failed in the OP.

Did you see the bubble coming out from the return port that is sticking out inside the meshed filter while you were running the ABS Pump?

Did you see the fluid level dropping while you are running the ABS pump even with the foam coming out of the return port?

Does the fluid level stay lower than the initial level when you started running the ABS pump?

These will help in understanding the level of leakage you have.
It could be big leakage from one solenoid or small leakage from multiple solenoids or could be leaking from the small o-ring at the inlet port at the bottom of the solenoid body.

Depending on the condition, you need to change the way you flush the system and flushing won't help at all for some type of the leakage modes from the o-ring.

Kaz

Kaz-kzukNA1 · 22 April 2016

Hi, Jinks.

Are you still getting the hissing sound when you stop the ABS pump?
Did you get ABS warning light recently because the ABS pump kept running for more than 2min?

What happens with your fluid level if you leave it for a while?
For example;

1. Activate any one of the solenoid to release any remaining high pressure fluid inside the accumulator.
2. Don't activate any of the solenoids from this point throughout the following procedures.
3. Leave the fluid inside the reservoir for more than 1Hr to let the millions of tiny bubbles to disappear or empty the reservoir and fill it with the fresh brake fluid.
4. Set the fluid level exactly at the Max line. Do not adjust the fluid level hereafter.
5. Operate the ABS pump for 30sec max and stop.
6. Wait for at least 1min to cool down the ABS pump.
7. Operate the ABS pump again for another 15 - 30sec max but stop immediately if the pump starts slowing down. With healthy battery and ABS pump, typically it slows down in around 10 - 15sec at this process.
8. Mark the fluid level now.
9. Leave it for 1Hr and mark the fluid level.
10. Check the fluid level again after leaving the system overnight.

I hope your fluid level doesn't go back close to Max line and instead, stays around the level marked at #8 even after left overnight.....
Again, if your pump is very tired or there is a big leakage from the solenoid(s), you may not be able to pressurise enough fluid into the accumulator and thus, the fluid level marked at #8 may not be low enough.

Kaz

piran1 · 25 April 2016

Slightly off-topic but has anyone had the accumulator recharged by Dave?

https://sites.google.com/site/audicqturbo/audibomb

anesthesia · 3 February 2017

Jinks, what did you end up doing? Is the leakage fixed? This is a very good ABS read from KAZ

Jinks · 3 February 2017

anesthesia said:
Jinks, what did you end up doing? Is the leakage fixed? This is a very good ABS read from KAZ

I gave up on mine and just pulled the pump relay. My abs never worked right from purchase so I am used to it. Eventually I will do big brake and abs upgrade. I found this repair to be a bit over my head with a few simple tools. But yes, Kaz always has phenomenal information which is always appreciated.

anesthesia · 3 February 2017

Jinks said:
I gave up on mine and just pulled the pump relay. My abs never worked right from purchase so I am used to it. Eventually I will do big brake and abs upgrade. I found this repair to be a bit over my head with a few simple tools. But yes, Kaz always has phenomenal information which is always appreciated.

I see, is ABS light on when you pull fuse?
i assume you just drain all the fluids from reserviorbto avoid the leak?
msybe a set of new O ring from WarrenW will stop leak?

thanks for update

Jinks · 3 February 2017

anesthesia said:
I see, is ABS light on when you pull fuse?
i assume you just drain all the fluids from reserviorbto avoid the leak?
msybe a set of new O ring from WarrenW will stop leak?

thanks for update

I know I have a weak pump and most likely a leaking accumulator so that right there is I think about 1200 in parts. Yikes... Plus I would still have that ungodly chattering pump noise later on down the road.I just drive careful if I am ever in the rain for now.
As for the abs light, after pulling my pump relay the light never came on. Which means something is bypassed or something somewhere. The bulb in the cluster still works as it illuminates at system check/start up. But that's what I'd do if it was illuminated, pull the bulb. I bet Kaz knows a more easier approach though.

Kaz-kzukNA1 · 4 February 2017

Warren’s kit is great if you have solenoid body external leakage. You will see lots of debris around that o-ring.
However, if the leakage is happening at the solenoid valve seat (inside the solenoid) or if you have stuck closed solenoid issue, the kit won’t fix them.

Pulling the ABS pump relay won’t trigger the ABS light immediately as long as you don’t activate the pressure switch at the accumulator.

However, once the accumulator loses the high pressure fluid through leaky solenoid issue or simply if you activated the ABS by locking the wheel while driving, the switch will engage and it will trigger ABS light in 120sec since you disabled the ABS pump.
You are just lucky at this stage.

If you have disabled the TCS, keeping the ABS light operational is handy because if you have w/speed sensor failure, at least, you will know through the ABS light.
If you kept the TCS, when the w/speed sensor fails, it will first trigger the ABS light followed by the TCS almost immediately like within 0.5sec.

If both the ABS and TCS lights are not operational, you won’t know the sensor failure although not a big issue as it’s not used by other systems, AFAIK.

The classic ABS is high pressure standby system and the high pressure fluid is stored inside the sphere shaped accumulator.

At the top of the accumulator, there is a silver hat that is the pressure switch monitoring the pressure threshold.

It’s NC (Normally Closed) type and when the pressure dropped below the threshold while you parked the car for a long time (result of leaky solenoid issue) or after you activated the ABS several times while driving, the pressure switch would become open and the ABS controller will activate the ABS pump.

If the ABS pump can’t pressurise the accumulator above the threshold (pressure switch changes from open to close state) within 120sec, it will trigger the ABS light and disable the ABS.

Apart from the w/speed sensor failure, this is probably the most common reason for triggering the ABS light with the classic ABS.

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So, as long as you are happy to lose the ABS, you can just tell the ABS controller that the pressure never dropped by simply GNDing the pressure switch terminal at the controller.

The easiest method is to create short circuit at the mating connector of the pressure switch.

There are 2 wires at the mating connector, YEL and BLK.
BLK is connected to the GND so you just need to create short circuit between the YEL and BLK terminals.
They are 090 size terminal.

For the clarification, until you lose the high pressure fluid inside the accumulator to a certain level, your ABS will operate (kick back at the brake pedal) for a few times when you lock the wheels even after you made the above modification.

Once you lose the high pressure fluid from the accumulator, it will be never pressurised again because of the above modification and thus, there is not enough source of force to kick back the brake pedal and you will continuously lockup the wheels under hard braking or on low mu surface until you reduce the brake pressure by yourself (human ABS).

Please note that above photo is from the RHD model.
On the LHD one, the ABS modulator is mounted 180deg rotated.
So, the Press sensor and the mating connector will be located towards the cabin side and not the radiator.

Also, please note that there is 2pin 250 size thick wire terminal mounted at the 180deg opposite side of the press sensor mating connector.

The 2pin 250 one is the power supply for the ABS pump so please don’t confuse yourself by looking at this RHD photo on the LHD model.
Just make sure to locate the silver hat pressure sensor first and follow the cable coming out of it.

Kaz

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anesthesia · 4 February 2017

Thank you KAZ, for your expertise on the ABS, that was truly very informative, this will help a lot of people who has issues with their ABS.

Has anyone here had a leaking abs high pressure hose?

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