HALP PLZZ! Check engine light O2 sensor

RastaBeanZ

RastaBeanZ

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Location
Stockton, Ca
I didn't know where to post this thread for specific help but I hope here is OK. (MODS please excuse or move if I post in wrong section)

So I have a 2000 NSX. Installed Test Pipes and Exhaust a year ago, drove the car under 1000mi (garage queen). I have a Pride V2 with Pride Test Pipes (No O2 Bunge attached). So basically I removed the O2 sensors from the car by unplugging them from their harnesses. Check engine light went on but I wasn't worried about it at the time...

Fast forward to now.. My registration is due and it requires a smog (Lame CA emissions :mad:). I put my stock Catalytic Converters back on, plug the O2 sensors back on and start the car. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STILL ON... So I run the code and it says "P0135- O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)"

Which to me did not make any sense because I never touched the Bank 1 Sensor 1. I only touched the sensors that go directly to the catalytic converters. (I do not know much about sensors and how they work)

So I replace the sensor using the same Denso make sensor. Bought 1 from a parts shop local which they recommended, plugged it in, light still on. Even after letting it "warm" up. Brought it back to the shop and turns out they sold me the wrong sensor. WTF!?!?!?! AND they don't do returns or exchange on electronic components. I finally get the right sensor, install it and the LIGHT IS STILL ON...

I'm not that mechanically inclined so I don't know much about how the whole system works. I had another shop check to see if the sensor was getting voltage (which it is) because we thought maybe that was the problem. One thing I did notice was the air pump that sits behind the Pass Quarter Panel turns on when I start the car for a brief moment (Maybe 10 sec) then shuts off, then the light goes on as well as my TCS (IDK if the TCS has anything to do with it). I'm told this pump is supposed to heat the sensor up so that the computer can read the sensor? :confused:. But there is no code for the air pump being shown.

So now my car is just sitting because I am stumped on how to fix it. I want to avoid taking it to the stealership. I wanna see if there is anything else I can find out or do before I decide to take it there and get raped. Any help of info is greatly appreciated. I know there are some tech guys on here that can maybe lend a brotha a hand. I wanna drive my car :frown: Thanks in advance

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reset ecu or wait 75-100 miles worth of driving and it will change to the new data input

HOW have you driven a car all this time with the annoying bright light in your face?? I would have gone nuts
 
I did reset the ECU. And drove it for like 50 mi and the light is still on :( [MENTION=22589]shawn110975[/MENTION] It is driving me nuts. It's driving me more nuts now because I can't even drive it because the tags are expired now.

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I was told the same thing that it will reset if I drive it around which I did for a whole weekend
 
RastaBeanZ said:
I did reset the ECU. And drove it for like 50 mi and the light is still on :( @shawn110975 It is driving me nuts. It's driving me more nuts now because I can't even drive it because the tags are expired now.

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I was told the same thing that it will reset if I drive it around which I did for a whole weekend
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How did you reset the ecu? Did you pull the clock fuse? Mine threw the same code after a header install. But when I changed the sensor and reset the the ecu, the issue was gone.
 
Let's start from the beginning. RastaBeanZ, after your replaced the O2 sensor for Bank 1 Sensor 1, (from my records should be DENSO 234-4730) you reset the ECU and and the light was STILL on? Once you start the car with the new sensor, the light should go out. From there, you need to let your car reset it's drive cycle. Secondly, did you reset your ECU from your scanner or pull the clock fuse? I generally if necessary like to clear any MIL from the scanner because resetting the ECU from pulling the clock fuse causes your car to have to reset it's drive cycle. It isn't just drive 50-100 miles. When I replaced my Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 sensor and reset the ECU, I still failed emissions at first because mine didn't reset. See here: http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...vice-amp-Drive-Cycles?highlight=drive%20cycle. Hope this helps because I am curious as to why you still have the MIL lit even after replacing the O2 sensor.
 
Yes the drive cycle for emissions readiness is somewhat picky. I drove my car from Florida to Virginia after resetting CEL and it didn't complete some of the readiness cycles. But it will do so in a few minutes if you meet the right criteria.

I agree with the comments above regarding the O2 code. If you replace the sensor, that should address the code. If not, perhaps there's an issue with the wiring/connectors. The secondary air pump operates upon starting (I think if coolant is 20 F cooler than last drive), and runs for a period that I believe depends on a few things. But that has its own code if it's not working, and shouldn't be the cause of an O2 code.
 
I cleared it using the scanner and did the fuse reset multiple times. [MENTION=31260]Jinks[/MENTION] Correct me if I'm wrong but Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the sensor closest to the fire wall?? I couldn't find a diagram anywhere. There are 2 sensors pre-cat

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I cleared the ECU using the scanner and the fuse reset multiple times [MENTION=30511]Spa2KJT[/MENTION] I'm hoping I replaced the right sensor. I was told Bank 1 Sensor 1 is nearest to the fire wall which is the one I replaced.
 
I cannot find a diagram @jwmelvin

Correct me if I am wrong, the rear cylinder bank is the one facing the cockpit?

There are 2 O2 sensors pre cat. The one closest to the fire wall (Closest to the cockpit) is the one I changed. Is this considered the rear cylinder?
 
RastaBeanZ said:
I cannot find a diagram @jwmelvin

Correct me if I am wrong, the rear cylinder bank is the one facing the cockpit?

There are 2 O2 sensors pre cat. The one closest to the fire wall (Closest to the cockpit) is the one I changed. Is this considered the rear cylinder?
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No, the rear bank is,"the rear of the car".

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RastaBeanZ said:
I cannot find a diagram @jwmelvin

Correct me if I am wrong, the rear cylinder bank is the one facing the cockpit?

There are 2 O2 sensors pre cat. The one closest to the fire wall (Closest to the cockpit) is the one I changed. Is this considered the rear cylinder?
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No, the rear bank is,"the rear of the car".
 
Don't feel bad. Made the same mistake on my Avalon beater. Code said bank 1 so I changed the front sensor. Turns out cylinder 1 (and thus bank 1) is the rear bank next to the firewall. Of course in case you didn't know, in the Avalon, the engine is in the wrong place (the front). ;)
 
Ok so [MENTION=31260]Jinks[/MENTION] is saying the rear of the car. [MENTION=24712]tof[/MENTION] is saying near the fire wall (which is the one I changed) and the bank facing the front of the car. I'm super confused now. :( So which one is which? Hahahahhaha like I said I never found a diagram.
 
No, tof was talking about his Avalon. In the NSX, the rear bank, which is towards the rear of the car (away from the firewall), contains cylinders 1, 2 and 3, and is known as bank 1.
 
Go to page 6-54 in the free shop manual which you can download from the Wiki.
On that page you will find a diagram showing front and rear cylinder banks.
On page 11-3 you'll find a diagram showing the front and rear O2 sensors.

On this page you will see the parts diagram showing the front and rear O2 sensors and their OEM part numbers to be checked against whatever non-Oem sensor you choose.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray...5=EXHAUST+MANIFOLD+(2)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no


This took all of 5 mins. to find.
Where did you look for diagrams?
 
RastaBeanZ said:
So I've replaced the wrong sensor... That makes sense then. I'm such a idiot...:confused: @jwmelvin Thanks a bunch! I'm going to try and change it out this weekend! I hope it works!

@JD Cross Thanks again for your help man. :wink:
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Ooooooops.
 
Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I just finished replacing the O2 sensor (The correct one) haha and my check engine light is off now. Now I just have to smog it tomorrow. Fingers crossed I pass! Thanks again guys! You guys are awesome! :cool:

Oh yeah and I got pulled over after I finished. I drove it to pump gas down the street from my house and right when I turned onto my block, a cop flags me down haha He just told me my tags were expired and if it is over 6 months they can tow my car. Then told me to get it fixed ASAP. haha

Some pictures :P My Buddies 94' on Regamasters

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wow. i just ran into the same issue. p0135 b1s1 oxygen sensor bad. my buddy told me it was the bank nearest the rear bumper; however, when i took it to the shop their diagram showed bank 1 as the one nearest firewall so they went ahead and replaced that sensor to find it not fix the problem. CEL still on. after hours of research and running into this specif thread, they replaced the sensor on the bank nearest the rear bumper. and sure enough, CEL was no longer on. im trying to run the monitors before smogging the car.

thanks Prime and RAstaBeanZ.
 

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