Gear selection problems?

Joined
8 August 2003
Messages
692
Location
West Sussex, England.
I have a '93 which when cold does not like selecting most gears, especially reverse - which is essential to get it out of the garage!
It is however easy enough to slide into second, then reverse, job done. After that all is ok, I do get the occaisional gear when warm which seems a little sticky, but generally perfect.

Is this a common thing? Would bleeding the clutch cylinder help or is the clutch showing signs of wear? Or possibly the linkage is worn?

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Simon.
 
Is putting in the reverse easier when the engine is off? Usualy that's the first sign that the clutch doesn't disengage any more. And it's usualy the reverse that makes the first problems.
 
Not to get your hopes down, but I had a similar, almost identicle, problem with an integra of mine. It turned out to be the clutch and all was well after a new one. Also, don't get the blues because you may need a clutch because after a new one is installed, you will feel like the world is a brighter place. At least, I know I did after the teg was fixed.....maybe it's just me...sigh. In any case, good luck with your problem analyzing.
 
NSXGB said:
Is this a common thing? Would bleeding the clutch cylinder help or is the clutch showing signs of wear? Or possibly the linkage is worn?

Any ideas?
Simon - check this out - when you first get in the car, put your foot under the clutch pedal & see if it lifts a little bit. If it does, pump it a couple of times, then try to select your gear with the motor running - does that make a difference?
If it does, either your clutch hydraulics need to be bled or pehaps even one of the cylinders is bad. I had very similar symptoms & replaced both the master & slave cylinders - with some research on this site, I found a significant number of failures of either so I decided to go ahead & replace them both.
Good luck
 
Thanks guys, will have a play today. Will try that slackening off of the engine mounts too to reseat the engine....all stuff that will cost nothing.

Clutch not slipping, 150 this am prooved that...;)
 
Sounds like a grease problem on the shaft.. (hmm.. that doesn't sound right!) My car has a similar problem on my Powergrip 2.. installer didn't use enough / correct grease.
 
Re: Re: Gear selection problems?

D'Ecosse said:
Simon - check this out - when you first get in the car, put your foot under the clutch pedal & see if it lifts a little bit. If it does, pump it a couple of times, then try to select your gear with the motor running - does that make a difference?


....no upward play on the pedal.
 
(note: it won't continually feel like play if you repeat it - only the very first time you lift it then it will be fine until it sits a while - maybe as much as a week)

If it never does this, then its probably not hydraulic
 
Are you only having your problem when the car is cold? What happens after you get going and the trans get warmed up?

I think it's pretty much normal the be somewhat notchy when cold..... I know mine is. Once warm, it's smooth as butter.
 
Took my X to the mechanic today and found out that the cause of my particular shifting problem is due to a leak on the clutch master cylinder. I was quoted about $400 for the part and repair.

Glad to hear that it isn't the clutch.
 
NSX-Racer - I hope you are right.... (BTW...AFAIK? - As Far As I'm Koncerned?!)

blknsxnoc - glad to hear thats not too bad.



I found out that my clutch was replaced 12k miles ago, I phoned the dealer who said that it's had a good life & I should only expect 6-12k miles out of it???!!! Total BS methinks for a car that has never seen the track especially!
 
CMC Replacement

blknsxnoc said:
... the cause of my particular shifting problem is due to a leak on the clutch master cylinder. I was quoted about $400 for the part and repair.
I bought both master & slave from Niello for ~ $170 for the pair & installed myself - it is not technically too difficult, more just awkward from an access standpoint (on the master anyway)
For anyone contemplating DIY, tip 1 - remove the driver's seat - makes access to the pedal assy MUCH easier (I ended up on my back with my legs & feet up the rear firewall to get the cotter pin back in the pedal - LOL - wish I had made photo-journal of that job!) Definitely worth the additional 10 mins to remove seat to make it much easier.
For the slave end, if you remove the transmission linkage it then is quite easy to get to - I did mine on jack-stands.
Oh - before you start, remove most of the fluid from the cylinder with a turkey baster. Then the process is pretty obvious - just be careful with the solid fluid line that fits into the CMC - make sure it doesn't cross thread as you re-install it - much easier to leave the CMC loose so you can move it around as you fit that.
See Service Manual pages 321 & 322 for general instructions. (When page loads, just type 321 "enter" in the field in the toolbar at the bottom that says 1 of 1420)
 
D'Ecosse,

I am a shade-tree mechanic and a know-nothing regarding the X.

Is this something that I should even try to endeavour?

Can anyone recommend someplace else that might give me a better price?

My quote was from H&A Auto in Costa Mesa.

Thanks in advance.

-jeff-
 
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