The loss-of-traction was the part that confused me the most when upgrading components like springs, sway bars, etc. 'More responsive, but some loss of traction' defies logic to the inexperienced. However, this is one item I do understand. Weight transfer and/or rapid movement = potential loss of traction.
Yes, for others another way to understand it is:
For a stiffer spring/swaybar (in the front), When you turn the wheel:
-The car will change direction quicker (more responsive/transfer weight quicker)
-will roll less,
-but will have slightly less PEAK grip.
When the car is at 100% cornering, the front will have less total grip with a stiffer spring/bar combination (safer understeer) than it would with a softer spring/bar.
Stock 1991 OEM wheel/tires are as you indicated, Billy- 205/15 and 225/16. One last question. Since this is what I am currently using for my occasional track events (running Dunlop Sport 5000 all around- I know, they have a high UTQG of 340!), with Eibach lowering springs and Bilstein shocks, do I still have roll oversteer to worry about?
What are the sidewall profile for those again? (205/____-15 and 225/____-16)
I can't simply say if your car will have roll oversteer or not. With newer Bilstein shocks, the dampers should control and slow body movement better which should help reduce roll oversteer. I honestly wouldn't read too much into it because they are more advanced concepts and techniques that shouldn't have you concerned. You don't want too low of tire pressure for the relatively tall sidewalls of the OEM sized tires, also don't run 40psi in the rear, especially if you are going to track it, the tires will get hot, pressures will increase, and the rear will loose grip. 36-38 would probably be a better starting point.
I do think a bigger/stiffer front bar will make the car easier to drive and more stable.
Billy,
Do you still recommend sway bars for people who have coilovers?
My set up is JIC FLT A2's, Type-R chassis bars, Dali under bar, SOS rear engine strut bar, with non-compliance front clamps.......Toe links are on order.
I was told once you have coilovers that you don't really need sway bars.
Thanks
Again, it depends on your setup.
I'm not too keen on rear spring rates being higher than the front on the NSX platform, and the JIC's are better than many coilovers from Asia, they have 504/560lb springs. A 50lb split isn't bad and there are many coilovers out there with a much worse spring rate split.
Saying you don't need swaybars if you have coilovers is a very inaccurate and generalized statement. Yes coilovers often have higher spring rates than stock, and in many cases stock springs with a lager aftermarket swaybar. But the suspension and the handling of the car is determined by all of the components that make up the chassis and suspension, from layout, center of gravity, polar moments, spring rates, swaybar rates, shocks, LSD, aero, chassis stiffness, tire size, offsets, widths, etc...
With all of that in mind, how wide and what tires are you using? Is this for street/track/agressive fun driving/etc...?
Your JICs are fine as is. You don't
have to buy anything. Is there some handling characteristic or uneasy feeling when driving or pushing your car hard?
As a whole I don't think a larger front bar would hurt your setup in terms of handling or comfort and it might improve the balance depending on your replies to said questions. If you like driving your car like a sane person on the road and don't push it, then it might be a little less relevant to make any changes. But if you have a more agressive track split like 235f 255r, then you might have a inherent balance difference that should be considered and a front bar (or for the JICs), a softer rear spring may be more important than if you had a 215/265 tire split.
Billy
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