EXHAUST HELP ???

Joined
17 March 2002
Messages
643
Location
Ontario, CANADA
Guys I received my Taitec GT Parallel Lightweight today and attempted to install it. I got 3 of the 4 bolts on the stock exhaust out ( after soaking them in WD40 for 2 hours) but the last one won't come out. I've broken 1 open end wrench and can't get at with a 12 point socket because of space restrictions. I just went out and bought a set of vice grips but even that won't get it loose. It's starting to strip now and I don't want to risk damaging it any more.

WHAT SHOULD I DO.

Please help.

Johnny.
 
NSX2NV,

First thing it keep that 12 point socket in the toolbox. This is the first thing to use to strip the nut. You need a 6 point. If you get a short one, you may get it in. You mentioned 4 bolts so I assume this is a later model (not a 1991). If you have a shallow socket use the vise grip to hold the socket (this may still slip, but worth a try)


If you are really stuck and can't get a tool in position I recommend a dremel. You can CAREFULLY split the nut with a small cutting wheel.

Frankly, most times these days when I work on a older exhaust, as long as I have access I don't even bother with a wrench, I just go for the dremel, only takes a few minutes.

HTH,
LarryB
 
An trick an old timer taught me was to heat up the nut with a torch (a small propane will work fine) and just move it slightly to break the bond. Let it cool and oil the thing then twist it off. Saved many a rusted bolts/nuts that way.
 
Hey Chuck,

Good idea. Although, you will need a small tip, and be good with a torch. I tend to be cautious about recommending this, since it can cause a lot of damage otherwise, if you are not experienced. There is an awful lot of aluminum in the vacinity!

Also in this kind of situation I have personally had little luck with propane, oxyacetalene will definately work though!

If you try propane you can be less cautious, but still if you are not experienced and cannot localize the heat, bad results may prevail.

You really need to get that nut "glowing", then it will come off easy.

Some may say I am a little too cautious, but I have seen some REALLY bad things happen, like... "Gee, I heated up the axle nut to get it off, and now the wheel bearing seal is melted in a puddle on the floor, Help!!"

My $.02

LarryB
 
Thanks for the advice guys,

I just came back from acura, bought 4 new bolts/nuts and 1 new spring. I'm going to cut the bolt and pull it out. I bought the spring just in case I have to cut through the old spring to get at the bolt.(really tight area to be cutting.

Hopefully it'll work.
 
Finally got the bolt out, I had to cut it and then drill it out. But it was all worth it, once I put the exhaust on and started it up the sound was incredible. Can't really say if there was any improvement in performance only I had a chance to take it for a spin around the block. Even though it's pricey the sound alone is worth it.
 
Once you get them off... one of the first thing I do when I change exhausts is to remove the old bolts and replace them.

On the 1991-1996 exhausts, the flanges between the exhaust and cats are secured with 3 studs per side in the cats that pass through holes in the exhuast with nuts on the end.

On 1997+ cars, the exhausts have adaptor pipes and are secured to the cats with 2 spring-loaded bolts per side.

On the early cars, I remove the cats, heat up the studs, and bang them out with a mallet. I then replace these studs and the nuts with new stainless hardware.

On the later cars, you can buy new bolts, springs, and nuts from the dealer.

If the nuts are really siezed, you can cut them off using a rotary cutting tool fairly easy.

You may want to consider just driving the car to an exhaust shop and having them cut them off as well. Make sure to have those new bolts/nuts/springs ready to go.

Regards,
-- Chris

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