The previous owner disabled the 3rd horn's connector which caused the short before I purchased the 1991 NSX and 14 days later, it looked like the problem is back, the headlight rose up and flashed a few time then off and repeated again, no horn though and no brake light since this fuse serves both duty. The 20amp fuse burned out and replaced today, alarm back to arm position but don't know for how long, I was told to unplug the alarm connector in the engine bay for good that would not burn the fuse hence the brake light. Any thought to locate the SHORT without hiring a electrical engineer to spend 2 days or 4 days just for it ?????Thanks RY
electrical short (security alarm)
- Thread starter robert yeung
- Start date
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by the previous owner disabled the connector. Do you have a digital multi meter and the service manual?
shawn110975
Suspended
the first thing I would do is plug everything back in the moron disabled and trace all the wires and see what he cut what he unplugged return the car to factory then trouble shoot from the beginning
I have seen people use speakerwire ran from the front parking lights to the rear of the car to make the running lights work.
seen people use Cat5e wire for oil pressure signal wire. seen cat5e used to extend the ECU wires for some reason.
mostly its the owners that just use what ever is laying around their garage to jury rig the car instead of getting the correct part to fix the problem
reminds me of what civic/accord/rx7/Nissan 250/ KIA/ owners do jury rig till the car explodes in a fireball and then they go buy another craigslist car and start over. LOL
venting sorry but return the wire mess to original and start the process from the beginning don't spend weeks tring to figure out what mind set the previous owner was in that day
I have seen people use speakerwire ran from the front parking lights to the rear of the car to make the running lights work.
seen people use Cat5e wire for oil pressure signal wire. seen cat5e used to extend the ECU wires for some reason.
mostly its the owners that just use what ever is laying around their garage to jury rig the car instead of getting the correct part to fix the problem
reminds me of what civic/accord/rx7/Nissan 250/ KIA/ owners do jury rig till the car explodes in a fireball and then they go buy another craigslist car and start over. LOL
venting sorry but return the wire mess to original and start the process from the beginning don't spend weeks tring to figure out what mind set the previous owner was in that day
The alarm horn was disabled to correct whatever the shorts that it caused--I assumed it triggered false alarm or it caused the fuse to blown and no brake light when the mechanic was doing PPI. The front fog lights were unmounted and removed ( I had the parts) ,would that be the problem ? but I assumed he removed the fog lights long time ago.
Had similar problem on my 91. Driver's door security alarm switch was bad, which set off the alarm when I used the key to open the door, which activated the third horn, which was shorted, which would blow the fuse. Sometimes it might go for quite a while and not act up. Finally replaced door switch and disconnected horn. No more problems. Door switch is a bitch to change. Did it by leaving activating lever from old switch in place on the car, removing little pin from activating lever, removing activating lever from new switch, and actually changing only the switch, reusing old activating lever, left on car, sliding little pin back in place, and securing it with a tiny amount of glue.
Also check the plastic harness blocks. Look into the male side (plastic male side holds female side pin sockets). The tabs on the sockets can corrode and break over time particularly in the doors/trunk. This can cause all manner of intermittent electrical shenanigans that will be nearly impossible to trace. I went through this with my trunk harness connector causing wheel speed sensor, brake light, blinker, and the infamous "brake lamp warning light" issues.
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