Drivin' 1st gear alot = momentary stuck in 1st gear

[FogCityNSX]

So this is the 2nd time I've had this happen in the past year. I'll drive around for a few minutes in 1st gear pretty revving from idle to 5k because I don't feel like shifting often.

Kind of like driving from stop sign to stop sign for a couple miles, but NEVER pressing in the clutch or completely stopping, just idling to the sign in 1st gear, looking then giving it gas to the next one.

Anyhow, what happened is it would get stuck in 1st gear. Clutch feels the same. So I can turn off the car, and it'll be stubborn but I can get it into first. Start it up but the car pulls forward with the clutch pedal in. So I turn it off and wait a few minutes. Then it'll start and drive like normal. Its been ok for thousands of miles since the first time.

Any ideas? It's only momentary that it'll do it and this is only the 2nd time.

Since Ken and Capt are having too much fun, let me add this detail. I hit 10+ stop signs within one mile of city driving around San francisco. Yes that means going up the hill, across the hill, down the hill etc. So that's 10 complete stops and accelerations within one miles. Sometimes more if there are cars lined up at stop signs. That's why I don't like to shift often, its a lot of wear on the clutch.

 

[CL65 Captain]

Any ideas? It's only momentary that it'll do it and this is only the 2nd time.

yea, don't do that. drive the car like a normal person and shift.

 

[nsxtasy]

I don't feel like shifting often.
.
.
.
Any ideas?

Trade your car for one with an automatic transmission.

 

[FogCityNSX]

Haha smartasses lol Not the typical Ken or Capt responses I would of expected. Especially from Ken who lives in Chicago, which has streets and bumper to bumper traffic in areas as bad or worse than here around San Francisco. Come on now Ken, seriously? There's absolutely no reason to shift into 2nd because they're so close. I hit atleast 10 stop signs in one mile of city driving.

Wanna take another crack at it from a technical aspect?

 

[4AU4LIFE]

Haha smartasses lol Not the typical Ken or Capt responses I would of expected. Especially from Ken who lives in Chicago, which has streets and bumper to bumper traffic in areas as bad or worse than here around San Francisco. Come on now Ken, seriously? There's absolutely no reason to shift into 2nd because they're so close. I hit atleast 10 stop signs in one mile of city driving.

Wanna take another crack at it from a technical aspect?

Hmm, first you are insulting some long time and very knowledgable members then ask if they 'want to take another crack' ?
interesting way of asking for help.

 

[FogCityNSX]

Hmm, first you are insulting some long time and very knowledgable members then ask if they 'want to take another crack' ?
interesting way of asking for help.

I know isn't it? I forget, only long time and very knowledgable members are allowed to makes insults. Oops and you're right, their responses weren't smartass remarks, they were very insightful. Darn it.

And oh, one more thing, I wasn't trying to insult them, I was stating that Ken's response was extremely un-Ken-ly, considering bullshit on prime was potentially one of the reasons he probably left a long time ago. So to hear such a remark from Ken.......is unexpected and I was pointing it out.

So I have to ask you, you serious? You think I was insulting them by going, "haha smartasses lol" or "Come on now Ken, seriously?". I think my response to you was much more harsh through hard sarcasm. If you can't take it, don't dish it right? Ok, time to ask the members of prime the hardcore questions like, Viper or NSX?, Zymol or peanut butter, or does this nsx make my ass look big?

 

[R13]

I've occasionally had a little trouble getting the car into 1st from neutral or at a slow roll, but I can't recall ever having issues getting it out of 1st. If it starts to roll when you start it in 1st with the clutch pedal depressed, that definitely sounds like an issue with the clutch not disengaging all the way.

Check your clutch fluid level and you might bleed the clutch lines and make sure the Clutch master and slave cylinders are working properly. The Slave cylinder is actually pretty easy to change from underneath. If that all checks out, check your pedal adjustment...(don't do this first, it's probably the least likely issue).

 

[shawn110975]

they say you dont gun it and then don't shift, you gotta think all that torque and it has no where to go. you could snap your Rods. drive it how ever you like but shift it when you should, if your gunning it, then shift at 7-7.5K, if your driving it and are slowly rising to 5-6K SHIFT IT....... save you car and save your wallet, you dont wanna shift?? you'll start shifting when it hits your wallet and it will hit your wallet HARD..

my 2-cents

and like the other guy posted, if you dont like to shift get an automatic NSX. I heard they are even faster and have over 1,500HP if you wax it with that store brand Wax! lol

 

[EdinKali]

Clutch is not fully disengaging. As another poster said, check your master and slave cylinders for leaks. If no leaks, then bleed the system as it likely has air in it.

 

[FogCityNSX]

Clutch is not fully disengaging. As another poster said, check your master and slave cylinders for leaks. If no leaks, then bleed the system as it likely has air in it.

Sounds like a good idea guys, or atleast a great way to start. I peeked at the reservoir and it does look a bit too dark.

I'm contemplating buying an air powered bleeder or maybe a motive products self contained bleeder.

 

[CL65 Captain]

Sounds like a good idea guys, or atleast a great way to start. I peeked at the reservoir and it does look a bit too dark.

I'm contemplating buying an air powered bleeder or maybe a motive products self contained bleeder.

For the clutch you don't need a power bleeder. Get a speedbleader for the slave, attach a hose from the bleeder into a bucket (so you don't make a mess) and pump the clutch a few times and re-tighten the bleeder. Takes 5 minutes and piece of cake.

PS: Motive power bleeder sucked. It wouldn't get a good seal on the master and would leak all over.

 

[FogCityNSX]

For the clutch you don't need a power bleeder. Get a speedbleader for the slave, attach a hose from the bleeder into a bucket (so you don't make a mess) and pump the clutch a few times and re-tighten the bleeder. Takes 5 minutes and piece of cake.

PS: Motive power bleeder sucked. It wouldn't get a good seal on the master and would leak all over.

I've used the speeds before on the front calipers of a sportbike I used to owned. It "worked" but was never firm. Maybe its just bad luck but makes me hesitant to order one.

Too bad the motive wouldn't work well. I really wanted one to do the brakes on the nsx and the superduty and whatever else I buy next.

Worth trying the speedbleeder though. I'll need to dig up the specs online on the bleeder thread specs on it so I can order it up.

 

[R13]

A guy running a "brake tech" class I sat in made a good point about all of the pressure bleeders. Any system that starts with air in it in addition to the brake fluid, and then gets pressurized is basically immediately forcing evaporated moisture into the system (therefore immediately degrading the boiling point of your fluid).

So, speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder if you must do the brakes on your own. Probably wouldn't matter with the clutch as it just doesn't see near the same temperature.

 

[goldNSX]

Maybe its just bad luck but makes me hesitant to order one.

j/k ahead, BEWARE :
1. you don't feel like shifting
2. you're hesitant to order parts
...
what's next? You don't want to solve the problem really? :tongue:

 

[FogCityNSX]

j/k ahead, BEWARE :
1. you don't feel like shifting
2. you're hesitant to order parts
...
what's next? You don't want to solve the problem really? :tongue:

Well if you had to actuate a heavy stage 2 clutch every 150 feet over speed bumps for 1/8th mile just to get to the gates at your gated community, then stop at 10 stop signs going up and across steep roads every (short) block for the next mile JUST to get out to the main road, you'd get tired of shifting and wearing out a $1000+ clutch too.

And I'm hesitant to order parts because I don't like buying junk. I like to buy the right and appropriate tool and part for the purpose with hopefully an added bonus of being able to utilize it for other applications. Such as a bleeder that I can use over and over for years on more than one vehicle, car, motorcycle, brake and clutch, etc. Especially at the the frequency of usage.

 

[FogCityNSX]

A guy running a "brake tech" class I sat in made a good point about all of the pressure bleeders. Any system that starts with air in it in addition to the brake fluid, and then gets pressurized is basically immediately forcing evaporated moisture into the system (therefore immediately degrading the boiling point of your fluid).

So, speed bleeders or a vacuum bleeder if you must do the brakes on your own. Probably wouldn't matter with the clutch as it just doesn't see near the same temperature.

That is an interesting perspective. It does make sense though. I was watching the guys on "Trucks" on Spike TV using the motive products pressurized brake bleeding system and it "seemed" to work really nice. It got me sold on its versatility and price point but you make a great point.

 

[R13]

Well, let's be honest, the guys on "Trucks" are probably not planning on running canyons or turning several hot laps on a race track in most of their creations so they are not really worried about how many degrees they've lowered the boiling point of the fluid. For them it's an easy way to perform this task on a show truck or off-roader that just needs the brakes to be serviceable for general light use.

Realistically, track, canyon/mountain, or autobahn driving will be the only situations for which this would really come into play. The NSX just happens to be well suited for these very uses though...

That is an interesting perspective. It does make sense though. I was watching the guys on "Trucks" on Spike TV using the motive products pressurized brake bleeding system and it "seemed" to work really nice. It got me sold on its versatility and price point but you make a great point.

 

[FogCityNSX]

I build that bleeder. I ended up building a pressure bleeder but never finished my electric vacuum bleeder.

Uses a 1 gallon pesticide sprayer from Orchard Supply. Had to be VERY picky about which one because not all of them will hold pressure well. So had to pump and listen. Pump and listen. But I made no modifications other than unscrewing the spray tip off. A few brass fittings, 2 feet of clear hose, more fittings and a roughly 3"x3" square piece of thick lexan with rubber foam epoxied on the bottom as a universal cap that'll fit both the clutch master, brake master. It uses a long thin piece of chain hanging from opposing corners attached with 2 long eye bolts and wing nuts to tighten as needed.

Cost me about $20-$25 bucks. Worked great and was reasonably fast.

I'd pump it to build some pressure, crack the bleed valve and watch the crude flow. As the fluid flowing slowed to just before stopping, I'd close the bleeder. Pump the sprayer and tilt it one side or the other to pick whether I need to add air pressure or more fluid /w pressure.

 

[stuntman]

they say you dont gun it and then don't shift, you gotta think all that torque and it has no where to go. you could snap your Rods. drive it how ever you like but shift it when you should, if your gunning it, then shift at 7-7.5K, if your driving it and are slowly rising to 5-6K SHIFT IT....... save you car and save your wallet, you dont wanna shift?? you'll start shifting when it hits your wallet and it will hit your wallet HARD..

my 2-cents

Not sure if I agree. It's probably fine to slowly increase the revs up to 5-6K. I don't see it causing any more wear, abuse, or problems than going to redline at WOT.

While I won't suggest doing anything illegal and blowing through stop signs without stopping, I do know what you mean and not wanting to up and down shift 20X within a mile. I dont see you causing any more (but probably less) wear on the car. But then again, pushing the clutch in and shifting that many times probably wont cause a measurable amount of more wear.

I would suggest bleeding the clutch fluid entirely (suck all the fluid out of the reservoir, fill with new fluid, and flush the lines by bleeding the clutch. ALSO: If you have an earlier year NSX, make sure the clutch is adjusted so the center section is not constantly rubbing/engaging on one of the two clutch plates.

Either way it sounds like your clutch is not disengaging - whether its a hydraulic or mechanical (center section not centered between the two clutch plates).


Ive never had good luck with pressure bleeders (for clutch or brakes), just bleed it the traditional way by pressing the clutch to the floor, opening and closing the bleed valve, then pumping the clutch and repeating.



0.02

 

[latzke]

Well if you had to actuate a heavy stage 2 clutch every 150 feet over speed bumps for 1/8th mile just to get to the gates at your gated community, then stop at 10 stop signs going up and across steep roads every (short) block for the next mile JUST to get out to the main road, you'd get tired of shifting and wearing out a $1000+ clutch too.

Sounds like you live in the wrong neighborhood if you don't like speed bumps or stop signs...and selected the wrong clutch if its characteristics are bothering you enough to not use it...and have a problem with your clutch hydraulics.