Driver's door amplifier

Joined
8 April 2001
Messages
2
Location
tomkins cove ny usa
The help i recieved to remove the door skin was great. Now that i have the amp out i called the dealer for a replacement, They told me the amp and speaker were sold as one unit for $835.00. Unless i'm crazy, after looking at the amp itself it can't be worth more than $30.00. Does anyone know where i can purchase just the amp? I did call bose directly and they told me they don't sell the amp alone either.


Thanks again, Ken
 
Does anyone know what actually fails in the amp? I'm guessing a transistor or diode, but whatever it is must be cheap and quick to relace. If anyone can find out the actual part, I'll do the fix on my own (on it's way out now) and post detailed instructions for anyone willing to do a simple solder job.
 
The real problem is overheating. If you are handy with a soldering iron I guess it's relatively quick and cheap.

Because the failure is due to overheating, if you are going to pull the amps and start soldering anything, you should probably go ahead and replace a bunch of things since the rest are probably near failure anyway.

The IC which is a power transistor, labeled as Q1, is manufactured by IR.

I'd replace the transistors, two of them are made by IR w/ Bose's generic part number (137110), two with IR part numbers (FIZ24).

Digikey sells these for $1 each. http://www.digikey.com/IRF.DKS$P=IRFIZ24N-ND

I'd replace at least these caps as well: C110, C130, C16, C183, C172, C203, C31, C7, C8, C25, and C19.

Anyway it sounds like you know your way around a circuit board. If you do fix it youself, I'd love to get a nice write-up with photos for the FAQ because I'm sure there are many others who would be able to save money.
 
Ken,

Lud made some good suggestions. The amplifiers were produced back when a particular "green" capacitor was being used in the industry. They are notorious for failure and were widely used in all electronics. Good chance that is where the problem exists. I replaced all of the green capacitors with new ones of the same value in a Bose amp with good results once. However, www.davescoolstuff.com, has new Bose amps for $112 delivered. I've been both ways and would just rather buy the new units.

Hope this helps.
fredrok


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It's all small stuff
 
My door speaker went out yesterday so I had it replaced ($150 incl labor). Looking at the amp it's easy to see how the transistors will overheat (no heat sink). I was able to keep my burnt out amp so I was going to see if I can repair it myself and keep it as a spare. It's pretty obvious that Q1 went out because the back of it is melted onto the pcb itself. Since Q3 and Q4 are also labeled 137110 are they the same as Q1 and Q2? The #'s above are slightly different with Q3 having ST 99031 and Q4 having ST 99029. Q1 and Q2 are both labeled ST 99030. If they are different does anyone have the replacement #'s for them? If you've done this before and have the capacitor values, I'd appreciate those as well. I don't want to start cutting into the glue and pull them to retrieve the values if at all possible. Thank you for your time!
 
You can get them repaired at www.boserepair.com for about $90 each. They replace all the electronic components in the amp with military grade components and turnaround time was only four days!

I got them back, installed them, put everything back together and the stereo sounds perfect! I'm happy with the fix and know of many others who had their amps repaired with this company. Highly recommended.

Vytas
 
Originally posted by HapaHaole:
Ditto.. I sent them out 2 day air and it only took him 2 days to fix it.. Great company


I just want to see if I can repair it myself since I have a spare. That way if the speaker amp goes out again, I can just swap it asap. Replacing the transistor is easy but the lifepan of caps is ~ 12 years so I may as well do those
 
Originally posted by sjs:
Does anyone know what actually fails in the amp? I'm guessing a transistor or diode, but whatever it is must be cheap and quick to relace. If anyone can find out the actual part, I'll do the fix on my own (on it's way out now) and post detailed instructions for anyone willing to do a simple solder job.

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