There is a lot of great info on NSX Prime and it makes owning an NSX just that much better. I am really impressed.
I decided to do my door-fix-it and window-fix-it recently and I just completed them. I did not find as much "how to" for these items as I would have expected. On the door fix it thingy, in particular, there was very little info. So, here is, what I consider to be, all the info that isn't in plain sight for these jobs.
You will have to figure out how to take off the interior door panels. But, I'll tell you that the two upper plastic cover thingies just pull off. Wiggle, pull and pry. Try to pry in the middle where the clips are.
The door handle has 7 or 8 screws holding it on. I know the driver's side had 8 but I only found 7 in my pile for the passenger side. Don't tell anyone. Take it off first. Then, pry up the door release cable - may take some force. Unhook door lock connector.
The door has 7 screws holding it on. Not 6 or 5. It lifts up first, then out. Wiggle and pull, no pry needed. Un-hook several connectors. Look for the buttons or tabs to release them. Each has one, just no two are the same. At least, it makes it easy to get it right when you put them back.
The speakers also have to come out. No fuss with that.
For the window-fix-it, the Dali site has a great "the really easy way" description. Basically, lower the window 1/3 of the way or so. You will need the driver's side window switch connected to do the passenger side. I had both my doors off and had to take the window controllers out of the door panels and put just them back on to get the windows to operate. You'll need the "window control unit" thing (upper right on driver's door side) to operate the driver's window.
Also, if you remove the weather guard plastic sheet first, you can see how far down you need to go with the window. When the white box (window thingy) that holds the cable ends is easily visible, that's enough. Then, tape the window to the car. I used yellow duct tape. I believe that other colors will work as well. One strip or two on each side of the glass will be fine.
Now, see if you can wiggle the cable ends out. I used needle nose pliers. The passenger side's lower cable came up and out without a fuss. The driver's side was tight on both top and bottom. Use the switch to raise/lower the glass to see if that loosens up the cable. Click "down" to loosen the top cable. You figure out the direction for the lower cable. For the driver's side, I had the wife come out and she had a bent piece (u-shaped) of metal to use to push the cable end out towards us as I held the cable down with the pliers. YMMV. Try not to lose either end of the cables.
On my passenger side, which I did first, the white spool back there had come out of the brass looking bracket behind where the cables connect. It had come forward or towards me. This made getting the old white plastic thingy out very difficult. I had to mess with it for quite a while. Eventually, I pushed it back hard enough (quite hard) so that the spool popped back into what looked like the normal place. It gave JUST enough room to get the old thingy out. And, just enough room to get the new thingy in.
At this point, one of the cable ends should be loose enough to just slip in. Then, use the window control to go up or down so the other cable should be close to fitting. With just needle nose pliers, I was able to pull on the cable and push the cable end in.
When I did the driver's side, the white plastic spool thingy was in its normal position, which is back and seated. I'm glad I got lucky on the passenger side - lucky in figuring out that it had to be pushed back.
As far as greasing and removing grease... all I did was wipe each track with a paper towel a few times. Then, I soaked a corner of a paper towel with mineral spirits to get any gunk/grime/grease off that was left. Not a ton of gunk in there.
Then, I applied the urea grease with my fingers. Hard to get it in the track. Hard to know where in the track to put it. I chose everywhere and put a few dabs of it near the part that slides. Before I greased it, I raised the window to the max height so I could get grease up at the top. I didn't see what the spool really is that needs grease. I did grease the middle track a little. It only looks like one side of it has friction on it.
In the end, both windows go up, now, with no help. The passenger side one moves much faster. The driver side one is acceptable although you can see it doesn't move as fast as it could. Good enough for now. I think with more ups and downs it will get faster as that is what it did in the garage. First time was strained, next time faster, etc.
As far as the door handles, I didn't see any good instructions. The trick is that there are screws holding the plasic part to the handle. But, they are covered with a little disk that makes them look like rivets. Sucks!!! They just scrape off. You will need a #1 phillips for these guys. They are tiny. And, one of mine stripped. I was able to get it the rest of the way out with pliers. I'm glad it went back on as it only stripped in the "out" direction.
My door fix thingies came with two extended lips where the screws go through. They conflicted with the screw retainers from the other side. Spent some time staring at this mess. Then, I decided to file them off. Aluminum files off pretty quickly with a steel file.
My weather seal plastic thing was held on by weather stripping that was, still, mostly flexible (140k miles, 1992). But, not that great. I tried to use some silicone weather seal but it doesn't stick to the car, to the existing goo or to the plastic sheet. So, I used racing red duct tape. Don't tell anyone. YMMV.
Doing both doors, and both types of fix-it-thingies and geasing, takes some time. Don't expect it to take just an afternoon unless you have solid experience with this sort of stuff. I spent parts of 3 days on it.
I hope this helps shed light on at least a few items that have not been spelled out exactly before.
I decided to do my door-fix-it and window-fix-it recently and I just completed them. I did not find as much "how to" for these items as I would have expected. On the door fix it thingy, in particular, there was very little info. So, here is, what I consider to be, all the info that isn't in plain sight for these jobs.
You will have to figure out how to take off the interior door panels. But, I'll tell you that the two upper plastic cover thingies just pull off. Wiggle, pull and pry. Try to pry in the middle where the clips are.
The door handle has 7 or 8 screws holding it on. I know the driver's side had 8 but I only found 7 in my pile for the passenger side. Don't tell anyone. Take it off first. Then, pry up the door release cable - may take some force. Unhook door lock connector.
The door has 7 screws holding it on. Not 6 or 5. It lifts up first, then out. Wiggle and pull, no pry needed. Un-hook several connectors. Look for the buttons or tabs to release them. Each has one, just no two are the same. At least, it makes it easy to get it right when you put them back.
The speakers also have to come out. No fuss with that.
For the window-fix-it, the Dali site has a great "the really easy way" description. Basically, lower the window 1/3 of the way or so. You will need the driver's side window switch connected to do the passenger side. I had both my doors off and had to take the window controllers out of the door panels and put just them back on to get the windows to operate. You'll need the "window control unit" thing (upper right on driver's door side) to operate the driver's window.
Also, if you remove the weather guard plastic sheet first, you can see how far down you need to go with the window. When the white box (window thingy) that holds the cable ends is easily visible, that's enough. Then, tape the window to the car. I used yellow duct tape. I believe that other colors will work as well. One strip or two on each side of the glass will be fine.
Now, see if you can wiggle the cable ends out. I used needle nose pliers. The passenger side's lower cable came up and out without a fuss. The driver's side was tight on both top and bottom. Use the switch to raise/lower the glass to see if that loosens up the cable. Click "down" to loosen the top cable. You figure out the direction for the lower cable. For the driver's side, I had the wife come out and she had a bent piece (u-shaped) of metal to use to push the cable end out towards us as I held the cable down with the pliers. YMMV. Try not to lose either end of the cables.
On my passenger side, which I did first, the white spool back there had come out of the brass looking bracket behind where the cables connect. It had come forward or towards me. This made getting the old white plastic thingy out very difficult. I had to mess with it for quite a while. Eventually, I pushed it back hard enough (quite hard) so that the spool popped back into what looked like the normal place. It gave JUST enough room to get the old thingy out. And, just enough room to get the new thingy in.
At this point, one of the cable ends should be loose enough to just slip in. Then, use the window control to go up or down so the other cable should be close to fitting. With just needle nose pliers, I was able to pull on the cable and push the cable end in.
When I did the driver's side, the white plastic spool thingy was in its normal position, which is back and seated. I'm glad I got lucky on the passenger side - lucky in figuring out that it had to be pushed back.
As far as greasing and removing grease... all I did was wipe each track with a paper towel a few times. Then, I soaked a corner of a paper towel with mineral spirits to get any gunk/grime/grease off that was left. Not a ton of gunk in there.
Then, I applied the urea grease with my fingers. Hard to get it in the track. Hard to know where in the track to put it. I chose everywhere and put a few dabs of it near the part that slides. Before I greased it, I raised the window to the max height so I could get grease up at the top. I didn't see what the spool really is that needs grease. I did grease the middle track a little. It only looks like one side of it has friction on it.
In the end, both windows go up, now, with no help. The passenger side one moves much faster. The driver side one is acceptable although you can see it doesn't move as fast as it could. Good enough for now. I think with more ups and downs it will get faster as that is what it did in the garage. First time was strained, next time faster, etc.
As far as the door handles, I didn't see any good instructions. The trick is that there are screws holding the plasic part to the handle. But, they are covered with a little disk that makes them look like rivets. Sucks!!! They just scrape off. You will need a #1 phillips for these guys. They are tiny. And, one of mine stripped. I was able to get it the rest of the way out with pliers. I'm glad it went back on as it only stripped in the "out" direction.
My door fix thingies came with two extended lips where the screws go through. They conflicted with the screw retainers from the other side. Spent some time staring at this mess. Then, I decided to file them off. Aluminum files off pretty quickly with a steel file.
My weather seal plastic thing was held on by weather stripping that was, still, mostly flexible (140k miles, 1992). But, not that great. I tried to use some silicone weather seal but it doesn't stick to the car, to the existing goo or to the plastic sheet. So, I used racing red duct tape. Don't tell anyone. YMMV.
Doing both doors, and both types of fix-it-thingies and geasing, takes some time. Don't expect it to take just an afternoon unless you have solid experience with this sort of stuff. I spent parts of 3 days on it.
I hope this helps shed light on at least a few items that have not been spelled out exactly before.
I am getting ready to attempt this myself. Did you buy your door fixits from Dali? I am wondering if I will have to file these also. How are things working now?
