Can anyone assist with some info on how to remove the rod that actuates the driver's side door alarm switch? It has a little plastic bushing/retainer that goes through the switch lever arm that actuates it when key is turned in lock. Got the screws out of the switch, it but it is such a tight spot, i need to know if there is some trick to unhooking it. I definitely do not want to remove any more stuff that might be difficult to put back correctly. Have done some research but cannot find any specifics about this. While I had door apart I have tried to diagnose why the window is so slow. Put 12 volts directly on power window motor leads and it is very, very slow. I installed the window fix thingy a few years ago and cleaned out the old hardened grease and relubed it. that helped it a lot but now its had a relapse. Lube seems to be fine on the tracks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
door alarm switch.
- Thread starter clarkm
- Start date
I have the same issue with my windows. I am going to re-lube and install the HugaBuga window kit. http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/184786-Window-upgrade-KITS I will let you know about the windows.
Did you ever figure out the door alarm switch? I will be removing that also to clean the contacts on the inside of the switch when I am working with the windows.
Did you ever figure out the door alarm switch? I will be removing that also to clean the contacts on the inside of the switch when I am working with the windows.
shawn110975
Suspended
door lock arm is hard to get off but you need to get behind it and pull, I normally put big flat head in front of it and pull twords the rear of the car will pop.
becareful the plastic retainer may break they are not forgiving.... if it breaks when you put it all back together you can put a zip tie behind the arm and the arm lever it will never fall out.
as for the locking switch the best way to clean it is to remove the 2 tiny screws to take the cover off. then you will see a cotter pin holding the arm push it out with a small screwdriver, take arm off. throw cotter pin away not useable after removal. use a cut paperclip to make a new one to bend it will never break and easy to replace.
then cut the 2 wires going to the switch so you can take the switch to a desk to work on it. use a combination of knife and flathead screwdriver to peel apart the switch
you will see the line they glued it around the whole thing. your tring to split it as best you can on that line.
once you have it open get some high grit sand paper and polish the arms inside the switch till they glow with a beautiful copper color. now since you have been pushing on them during the polishing they are not going to make a good connection when you put it back toether. bend them upwards so they are almost standing up....
when you put it back together the top of the switch LID will push them back down and make a nice strong connection. press it together real tight and use a soilder gun to re-melt the plastic and your done.
becareful the plastic retainer may break they are not forgiving.... if it breaks when you put it all back together you can put a zip tie behind the arm and the arm lever it will never fall out.
as for the locking switch the best way to clean it is to remove the 2 tiny screws to take the cover off. then you will see a cotter pin holding the arm push it out with a small screwdriver, take arm off. throw cotter pin away not useable after removal. use a cut paperclip to make a new one to bend it will never break and easy to replace.
then cut the 2 wires going to the switch so you can take the switch to a desk to work on it. use a combination of knife and flathead screwdriver to peel apart the switch
you will see the line they glued it around the whole thing. your tring to split it as best you can on that line.
once you have it open get some high grit sand paper and polish the arms inside the switch till they glow with a beautiful copper color. now since you have been pushing on them during the polishing they are not going to make a good connection when you put it back toether. bend them upwards so they are almost standing up....
when you put it back together the top of the switch LID will push them back down and make a nice strong connection. press it together real tight and use a soilder gun to re-melt the plastic and your done.
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Thanks for the help.
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