Do you use anti-seize on your bolts?

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I've heard using anti-seize on bolts is a good way to prevent seizing (obviously) but also holds the bolt in place a little better since there is a medium. I'm going to be putting my motor back together soon and back into the chassis, and was considering using antiseize on most of the bolts. Especially the subframe bolts and other bolts being tightened into aluminum.

Does anyone have experience with this or reasons not to use anti-seize on any specific bolts? Thanks for your help Prime.

Mike B

 
I put it on every bolt I remove & reinstall on all 4 of my present cars and have done so for decades. And, I put virtually every bolt back with a torque wrench. Never had a bolt come loose; never had a bolt seize that I previously installed. OK, so I'm a bit anal...........
 
I put it on every bolt I remove & reinstall on all 4 of my present cars and have done so for decades. And, I put virtually every bolt back with a torque wrench. Never had a bolt come loose; never had a bolt seize that I previously installed. OK, so I'm a bit anal...........

I do the same so also anal.....
 
I put it on every bolt I remove & reinstall on all 4 of my present cars and have done so for decades. And, I put virtually every bolt back with a torque wrench. Never had a bolt come loose; never had a bolt seize that I previously installed. OK, so I'm a bit anal...........

I do the same so also anal.....

Thanks guys. I feel like I'm on the right track.


Thanks for the links, they were great reads. It seems like there aren't many situations where anti-seize is a bad thing. I'll stick to my plan to torque and anti-seize most everything (unless otherwise specified by the manual)

Mike B
 
Keep in mind that if you use anti-seize in locations where Honda did not specify it in the SM, you may be over-torqueing the bolts if you use the Honda torque values.

Applying a lubricant (like anti-seize) on the bolt threads and even under the head of the bolt changes the torque imparted on the bolt where the bolt may actually see too much tension and break. That is why critical torques (like head bolts) specify different torque values (for the same bolt) depending on if you are using 30wt oil, ARP lube, moly lube, etc.

In reality, I wouldn't worry about it too much, just something to keep in mind.

I only apply anti-seize on the NSX where the SM calls for it. The Dacron-coated bolts we use for most of the car already do a great job of preventing dissimilar metal corrosion and galling.

Dave
 
I use anti-seize on the drive axle splines/nuts and spark plugs only.
 
Keep in mind that if you use anti-seize in locations where Honda did not specify it in the SM, you may be over-torqueing the bolts if you use the Honda torque values.

Applying a lubricant (like anti-seize) on the bolt threads and even under the head of the bolt changes the torque imparted on the bolt where the bolt may actually see too much tension and break. That is why critical torques (like head bolts) specify different torque values (for the same bolt) depending on if you are using 30wt oil, ARP lube, moly lube, etc.

In reality, I wouldn't worry about it too much, just something to keep in mind.

I only apply anti-seize on the NSX where the SM calls for it. The Dacron-coated bolts we use for most of the car already do a great job of preventing dissimilar metal corrosion and galling.

Dave
That is exatly what Honda stresses at its training center and online training courses, do not use anti seize or other lubricants unless it calls for it, It will change the torque value causing you to over tighten the bolt.
 
Interesting. That all makes sense and is worth keeping in mind. I'll be sure not to go crazy with it. I'll definitely be more cautious when torquing into aluminum areas like the subframe mounting Dacro regions.

Mike B
 
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